I need one for the front. The read camber kit is good. I'm just trying to get a even tire wear.
Forget the adjustable camber kits and use the stock upper control arms or an equivalent replacement and have the toe set to dead center of the factory tolerance range. You won't have enough uneven tire wear to matter if the toe alignment is done correctly. If some lazy grease monkey is just setting it "within spec," then it won't be good enough and you'll shred the inside shoulders, but this applies both with and without significant negative camber.
I question whether that SH3 upper control arm has enough adjustment range to match the SV4 control arm. I'm curious to see the alignment print-outs from that one...
Ive gotten 3 alignments in the past 6 months. Every time the camber kit comes loose
Ok, so either:
1) You have a shitty camber kit
2) You didn't torque it correctly
3) You didn't use and loctite (or similar) thread goop
Ditch the camber kit if you have issues with it and just have the toe 0'd out. Use the washer trick in the rear if you have to. I had an Ingalls anchor joint kit and had 0 issues for the front for over a year.
__________________ 2004 NFR S2000
Originally Posted by slomofo
I think TheMuffinMan is Chuck Norris. Seriously, you can't find the TheMuffinMan,TheMuffinMan finds you.
I don't get it, if its that easy to just have the toe at 0 then why does everyone say you need a camber kit?
Because they're clueless.
You don't need camber adjusters to have even tire wear. You do, however, need a toe alignment that has been done correctly. Keyword: correctly.
I've driven around in my lowered cars for years without camber adjusters and have never had wear uneven enough to affect the service life of the tires (i.e. not more than 2/32" tread difference between the inside shoulder and the outside shoulder). I operated a Hunter optical alignment rack and specialized in performance, competition, and street alignments for several years, and currently do my own alignments with trig, toe plates, and a string box on a flat concrete pad. Unlike most alignment monkeys, I actually know what I'm doing.
I remember seeing my toe being around .04
Would having it set to .00 be that much of a difference?
Guessing won't get you close enough. If you really want help, you'll need to post your before and after print-outs from the alignment machine including all specs and tolerance range figures. If you don't have print-outs, then that's your first mistake - you should never have an alignment done without asking for both print-outs beforehand.
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