When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Update I replace the head gasket here a while back and I took care of the overheating problem. Im working on the error codes, which are Knock sensor an 1164 code still. I've just replaced both upper an lower 02 sensors an still get the 1164 code. I did hire ever get rid of the 1167 code of that helps?
The only other that has changed is now the car shifts down like it's suppose to to go into passing, before it wouldn't it would just down shift an go know where
Update with pics
I tried looking for the spot that you posted with the picture but it looks like something else is plugged in there with a wire going to it. Also there is a brown plugged underneath the motor there's nothing plugged into that I'm not sure where that goes to or if that has anything to do with this.
my knock sensor is into the block but it's below to the left if you're looking at the back of the motor from underneath can anybody clarify if I got something backwards or something?
Last edited by stacy zimmerman; 11-14-2020 at 10:40 AM.
Reason: Update
So you replaced the O2 sensors because you got a KNOCK sensor code..and the new O2 sensors did not fix the KNOCK sensor fault.
Have I got this right?
I've always had the knock sensor code since I replaced the motor about 10 years ago and it's ran fine. The only error code I had where the knock sensor 1164 in 1167 what are the O2 sensor codes went away when I replaced both O2 sensors.
I'm not sure which one to check or how do I know which one to check I'm assuming it's probably the wiring Maybe.?
I can clear the codes and the knock sensors seem to be the first one to come back the other one that takes a little while for it to come back the 02
The knock code will keep you in open loop. It will not run fine.
Shine a light behind the engine , underneath above the oil filter, is the connector on the the sensor? or is it broken off from an oil change?
The knock code will keep you in open loop. It will not run fine.
Shine a light behind the engine , underneath above the oil filter, is the connector on the the sensor? or is it broken off from an oil change?
It is in one of the holes
I was told the old one was broke off? So I'm not 100% sure what hole is goes into. But it is pushed in or partly threaded into a spot close to original I believe
it does sound like you need to replace the knock sensor, its probably broken (easily done). But, I suppose it could be loose. I would replace it.
Do you know what hole it goes into for sure? I might have to try an retread it if I can get to it. I've always had that code for years. Not sure what you mean by in a loop, like just keeps coming back?
Wow thanks
Everytime I had it replaced they wold stick it down to the left in one of the holes. This should help. This will fix 02 sensors or that something else?
Stacy - When you first turn a car on, the car is not at normal temp, so the computer runs a preprogrammed set of instructions when the car is on. This sets the idle, fuel, injectors, spark timing, etc regardless of what any sensor might be sending. A good example of something it ignores is the O2 sensors, because when cold the sensors don't deliver very accurate information/ This whole process is called open loop. It's just reading what the computer told it should be the starting settings. This process might last 1-5 minutes while the car warms up and is running.
Once a car warms up, all the sensors are now delivering information for a bit, all the checks have been done to verify there are sensors, and the computer then starts to look at the data and make adjustments based off of that, not the default settings any longer. Again, using the O2 sensor as an example, it would then be warm and accurately (if in good working order) sending information about the exhaust to determine if the fuel mixture is correct, and if it detects it's too lean or rich, it makes the adjustment. This is called closed loop. This is the normal mode the car should be in.
Now, if a car starts detecting that sensors are not functioning, missing, dead, or giving data that is out of bounds, the car can and often will revert to "limp" mode. This is where the cars knows something is wrong somewhere (or at least thinks it is) and goes back to partially using the computer again for the settings of the car, however it also will often put in some safety factor because it's trying to make sure not to damage the engine, effectively it plays everything "safe". This means, for example, a car might not rev past a certain range, will run rich, and maybe not run above a certain speed.
If you have had the knock sensor error, our presumption is the car is not running correctly, it's either staying in open loop or it's in a limp home mode. Either way is not helpful to the car.
Stacy - When you first turn a car on, the car is not at normal temp, so the computer runs a preprogrammed set of instructions when the car is on. This sets the idle, fuel, injectors, spark timing, etc regardless of what any sensor might be sending. A good example of something it ignores is the O2 sensors, because when cold the sensors don't deliver very accurate information/ This whole process is called open loop. It's just reading what the computer told it should be the starting settings. This process might last 1-5 minutes while the car warms up and is running.
Once a car warms up, all the sensors are now delivering information for a bit, all the checks have been done to verify there are sensors, and the computer then starts to look at the data and make adjustments based off of that, not the default settings any longer. Again, using the O2 sensor as an example, it would then be warm and accurately (if in good working order) sending information about the exhaust to determine if the fuel mixture is correct, and if it detects it's too lean or rich, it makes the adjustment. This is called closed loop. This is the normal mode the car should be in.
Now, if a car starts detecting that sensors are not functioning, missing, dead, or giving data that is out of bounds, the car can and often will revert to "limp" mode. This is where the cars knows something is wrong somewhere (or at least thinks it is) and goes back to partially using the computer again for the settings of the car, however it also will often put in some safety factor because it's trying to make sure not to damage the engine, effectively it plays everything "safe". This means, for example, a car might not rev past a certain range, will run rich, and maybe not run above a certain speed.
If you have had the knock sensor error, our presumption is the car is not running correctly, it's either staying in open loop or it's in a limp home mode. Either way is not helpful to the car.
OK great thanks that helped Alot. I'll order another anyway just in case. But yeah they been putting I in the wrong place seems like cause you could see it under the car. They had told me a one time it was cause the exhaust an intake were from original motor an didn't match up with the motor I replaced?
Stacy, there is only one place it goes. It has threads.
I've attached pics of what I have an where you pic is saying. I have something in that area an I'm still looking. The wires plugged into something in hat area what are they?
I also have a large brown plug to the right side that isn't plugged into anything I'm also not sure whay it's for.
Well I thought I got a pic of the brown or tan plug, looked like it had about 6 or sole holes in it tonplug something into This in the area your pic shows
.
Is something broken off in that hole? Looks like the old bottom half of the original knock sensor...
You can rig it up. I swear. I have seen people take a good knock sensor. Tie it up to something sturdy. Tie a wire as a DIY ground strap to the base of the knock sensor. Secure the other end to a bolt on the engine. The knock will be grounded, and never give any signal again as it is defeated. It will not code.
with the knock defeated you can see if it will go into closed loop and read those coding O2 sensors.
Is something broken off in that hole? Looks like the old bottom half of the original knock sensor...
You can rig it up. I swear. I have seen people take a good knock sensor. Tie it up to something sturdy. Tie a wire as a DIY ground strap to the base of the knock sensor. Secure the other end to a bolt on the engine. The knock will be grounded, and never give any signal again as it is defeated. It will not code.
with the knock defeated you can see if it will go into closed loop and read those coding O2 sensors.
So I just need to ground it in that area?
What's easiest way to get that spot there?
OK so just a strap from it to ground t tht spot specificly?
Right you are satisfying the ECU's need to see by grounding the base to metal. It will not function as a knock sensor, but wont trip the code either.
Then the ECU can self check to the next fault, O2 sensors. My guess is the O2 sensors are fine, they arent getting a chance cause the Knock code is cutting them off.
Right you are satisfying the ECU's need to see by grounding the base to metal. It will not function as a knock sensor, but wont trip the code either.
Then the ECU can self check to the next fault, O2 sensors. My guess is the O2 sensors are fine, they arent getting a chance cause the Knock code is cutting them off.
okay so any of the other holes on the back of the block I can screw it in into it that would do the same thing which I have done and it is right now so then what you're talking about won't work cuz a knock sensor should be grounded now shouldn't it if it screwed into the block best I mean best I can get it in.
I posted a few
okay so any of the other holes on the back of the block I can screw it in into it that would do the same thing which I have done and it is right now so then what you're talking about won't work cuz a knock sensor should be grounded now shouldn't it if it screwed into the block best I mean best I can get it in.
I posted a few
NO.
The location is incorrect and would pick up crank shaft noise.
11-10-2020, 09:52 AM
2002 honda accord 2.3 motor F23A1
