Randy4000

Honda accord 2000 LX 99k miles.

Check engine light last time I checked was for egr insufficient flow. I removed the egr and cleaned the ports, it wasn't even that dirty. Check engine light stayed on. Soon I'm ordering the gaskets to remove the throttle body and the intake manifold to do a full clean. Once I get that done hopefully it won't give me the CEL.

My car when at cold start will bog out. It won't go past 20 mph suddenly it'll jump and go and than it'll happen again. It's very weird because I've started my car before and just gone out and this has never happened. I've realised that after it heats up to normal tempature it doesn't happen anymore. So ill just have to let it heat up from now on to avoid this from happening. Should I do a transmission flush or add a treatment to just be safe? Thanks. I also recorded it so I'm going to upload it to YouTube and post it here. The video started a little after it had heated up a little bit but it still did it. I'll post it once it's uploaded.


https://youtu.be/n3dbGqYjNZA

So in the first 30 seconds you'll see it happen. I'll record again when it happens again. I kept recording just in case it happened again. But it didn't. I guess it only occurs when the car is cold. It's only happened today and I've had the car for a couple of months now.

Randy4000

Its now daylight. I was able to take the car out and test it again. It did the same thing. This time I recorded it from start. I'm doing an oil change and tranny flush soon as well. I'm uploading the video on YouTube. This is the second time the car has done this all of a sudden.


Just went to auto parts. Getting the code po401

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Did you reset/clear the CEL after cleaning the EGR?

*edit*

Your video is private and not viewable.

Randy4000

No I figured it was supposed to go off by itself. I'll do that asap. I'll change it to public now. Sorry about that.

July 7, 2015: https://youtu.be/HP3X3_QfcOk

Here's another video from when I woke up.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Yep, you'll want to reset the CEL after correcting the issue, you can do so with a battery pull or if you have an OBDII scan tool you should be able to blank it out that way as well. Drive her around for awhile and see how it goes.

Randy4000

Alright I'll definitely do that. Thanks! That yellow light is terribly annoying. Also that can't be what's causing the car to be acting up like that when I accelerate though right?

MAD_MIKE

If the CEL is on the PCM has detected/determined there is an issue. The reason the car is running strangely is because the PCM is attempting to operate the power/drivetrain with the fault. Find out what the fault code is, report back here.

Randy4000

I just had it checked the code was the egr insufficient flow. It's been the same code for months actually. I've only ever cleaned the egr itself but I never got to clean the intake manifold or throttle body. I'm getting the gasket for the throttle body soon so I can finish the cleaning. could this be what's causing the car to lose power and than suddenly jump as you can see in the video? By the way it only happens during a cold start. When I let the car warm up for a good 5 minutes it doesn't do it at all.


To reword my problem...basically the car hesitates when I accelerate on a cold start only. As you see in the video the rpms drop and than suddenly jumps. It jumps because I give it more throttle. Once the car stops hesitating it takes off because my foots still on the throttle.

MAD_MIKE

The stumbling is probably from the EGR insufficient flow, part throttle misfire occurs. When the engine fully warms up/closed loop the range or severity of the misfire changes.

Randy4000

Oh okay. Alright so that has to be the culprit then. I had found this accord in mint condition with only 95k miles. The CEL has always been on since I got it. The car always ran flawless but now its finally beginning to be affected by it. I've had it for about 3 months and the car is perfect so this must be the issue.

I'm going to order the throttle body gasket tomorrow since they appear to break easily. The gasket for the intake manifold appears to be made of metal and is reuseable so this fix will probably cost me around $15 between all the throttle body cleaner and the gasket I'll have to buy. Can't wait to have my car running perfect and to finally shut off that annoying yellow light.

Quick question. Should I do all this with the battery disconnected? It would reset the ECU plus there's a lot of electrical stuff thats plugged in on these things so I wouldn't want to damage it. What's your advice on that? Thanks for the response and all the help.

MAD_MIKE

Although I don't think there is anything in that area that would be 'hot' while the ignition is off, it is good practice to disconnect battery power whenever working on the engine.

Verify that you have any needed radio security codes prior to disconnecting the battery.