smacconnell

Hi i have a 96 accord and did a head swap. i have just been doing what i can with little info, i have now got the car running but i get a check engine light and the car will not rev more then like 5300 or so. when you go to pass it kicks down but will not shift till you let off then it will shift again. i do not have the vtec solenoid,hooked up yet is this the problem ? i have gone and got the ecu from a ex and put it in the car but when i put my volt meter in the pin a8 i do not get any voltage. from what i have found is that is the pin for the vtec am i missing something ? the head i got is from a 96 ex and it does not have a pressure switch for the vtec just a bolt where that is to be and the vtec solenoid has only one wire coming from it.

Slammed95Cord

you definitely have to have the VTEC Solenoid connected, working, and make sure the filter inside it is cleaned out... a clogged vtec solenoid will cause it to not engage

Thepowderblue

I am assuming you put a f22b1 head on a f22b2 block, Did you remove the oil control thing in the block when the head was off?
What ecu are you running?

smacconnell

thanks for the reply ! i did not remove the plug in the block i did not have one that i could see. the ecu that i had in the car was 3720-pob-a70-881-187943 and the one that i put in is 38720-pob-a70-881-224947. what pin should i put the vtec to ? from what i could find i should put it in A8 but when i put my volt meter in that one i get no voltage at any rpm is this the right pin to put it in ? not to repeat but it is a one wire with no pressure switch.

smacconnell

anyone ??

netguru

I would like to know this as well.

GhostAccord

1. You need to remove the oil control orifice from the F22B2 block. It's there!
2. Replacing your P0B with another P0B ecu will not work. You need an OBD2 P0H VTEC ECU. Any automatic trans 96-97 EX Accord ECU will work.
3. The OBD2 96-97 F22B1 VTEC does not use a separate VTEC pressure switch. That is why you see a plug in it's place. The VTEC solenoid only has one wire becuase it it internally grounded to the head. The single wire is the (+) signal from the ECU.

Once you have the proper OBD2 P0H VTEC ECU. The pin you wire the VTEC solenoid to is A8.


As for the Check Engine Light, You can use the self diagnosis procedure and read the CEL flashes. AKA paperclip method.



Under the glove box


2 pin connector in mount/bracket


2 pin SCS connector that gets shorted.

nus_dogg

Definitely need to remove that oil control orifice! All F22B2 have them.

HONDARIDR24

bout to start same project.so there is only one wire to connect to a8 on ecu and vtec works? im guessing that mean there is no oil pressure switch to mess with, because i do not see one anywhere. i have same obd1 harness for 95 lx and am using 96 head from ex.and if anyone has poh for manual let me know. ty

smacconnell

ok so i have had a little more time to work on this car. so this time around i have no check engine light and i got the vtec working just using a jumper wire to a 12 volt wire. it works fine with this hooked up this way, it will rev out and it has alot more power. so now i was looking to hook it to the ecu but ghost accord says i have the wrong one tho. i am looking for some help with this the wrecker i got the ecu from says it it out of a accord with vtec. so can i use this one or do i need a different one ? as for the oil control i did not remove it and still think i do not have one on this car. one other question if i leave the vtec switch open will it just burn more gas when you are just driving and vtec is not needed ?

dglassmyer

Lord some people just don't learn...
If you left the oil control orifice in your block your vtec is NOT working, trust me.
It looks like a small round plug directly behind the rear main head bolt location mounted flush into the cylinder block mating surface, its easy to miss!!
If you have an B2 block, it is in there, unless someone previously removed it.

Secondly tell us what EXACT ecu you have.
It should go like 37820-???-???
Fill in the ? 's

GhostAccord

He posted above that he has replaced his 37820-P0B-*** with another 37820-P0B-***. Ether that is a typo or he is indeed using a non VTEC ecu. The OBD2 VTEC ECU is a P0H or P0J something like that????? I know for a fact that the P0B is Non VTEC though.


OP,
If you are planning on leaving the VTEC permanently engaged you might as well have swapped a PT3 (90-93) F22A** Non VTEC head onto your F22B2. It would have been a much better swap.

gogydm

I feel like we should make a DIY thread since so many questions about this type of swap are asked, let's do it so people get it right the first time. Anyone have pictures? I would be more than happy to do the write up.

n9_accord

Ive looked over some info in the faq section regarding this but i agree that a fresh obd2 accord vtec head swap would be appreciated! my car could be the photo model should i find a decent ex head at the junk yard!

GhostAccord

Fill your boots boys!

smacconnell

i am looking for a new ecu again that is not a pob i will keep you posted on how i make out with this. when i put the 12 volt power to the switch vtec is working ! i have been playing around with it and with out it you can drive down the road and put it to the floor it will only rev to 5000 and stay there untill you let off or if i put power to the switch it will take off again and rev to 6500 no problem. as for the guy looking for a head i have one. the head i got first needed the valve cover bolts so when i went back to the guy i bought it from he just gave me a whole head. if you are interested in it just message me and i will get it out to you. thanks again guys !

n9_accord

I might just take you up on that.. I'm in the process of acquiring a 97 auto LX with 200k and possible engine damage due to someone bringing the car to the sub zero temps of buffalo, NY from Alabama with nothing but water in the cooling system!... might actually need it! .. I'll let you know.. thanks!

Swap'DShuttle

Good news! If you have a switch wired to vtec and you're out there slamming on it hard, you're not running the high cam fuel map and are leaning out harrd. If you burn valves, or blow **** up don't cry to us.

smacconnell

ok so it has been some time and the car is doing fine with just the switch in place of the ecu i just have not had much time to work on this project. i am still in need of the right ecu but the little toggle switch works just fine for now. so for all the guys that said this will not work i want to ask how did i make it work and keep working over the last month and a bit with the car driving almost every day ?

GhostAccord

I knew that it would work. I just wouldn't suggest that anyone do it. It's not the way to run VTEC. It's not the most effective way, power wise or economy wise...besides who want's to continually keep switching a toggle all the time? Like I said above, you would have been better off swapping an F22A6 head vs switching VTEC with a toggle.

The F22B1 is not built for power, it's for economy. The VTEC lobes aren't much bigger than the A6 cam. The big difference in the F22B1 head is that when out of VTEC 1 of the intake valves in each cylinder only partially opens. Just enough to keep fuel from pooling behind the valve. So when the car is not in VTEC it doesn't use as much fuel.......Once VTEC is engaged both valves fully open and you are using the full capabilities of the engine.

Your running the injectors based on the F22B2 fuel maps. Are you able to post up your current MPG & AFR's? Also what your spark plugs look like?

JdmAccord97J

I also need help with this head sawp, ok I have a 97 Ex vtec F22B1 its 5SPD , but my block is knocking bad, so been looking for the same block but no luck, I have only found the F22B2, and its from an automatic accord, Do I need to take off the oilcontrol orifics? And where is located?? Betwen the head and block?? Correct me if im wrong, also they told me that the timing belts are diferent size of B1 and B2, do I have to change someting were the timing goes?? And do I have to change somethong were the tranny goes?? Im not looking to get more power im just looking to have a oem accord running good and smooth with vtec, this car is for family and not to race tanks

JdmAccord97J

Oil control orifice*

dglassmyer

Read my post earlier in this thread, it says exactly where the oil control orifice is.
Yes you have to remove it.
Use the B1 timing belt.
All of this is covered in the FAQ we already have.