tony97

Problem started when the heater hose blew I replaced that no problems a week and half later now over heating when driven past 7 miles it heats ou past the half way mark then goes back down then up again and down again after doing this for about 1 mile it heats back up again and stays ther no loss of fluids but after being stoped radiator resvoir is bubbling and throwing mad steam I have already replaced the thermostat and there is no fluids mixing I've also flushed the raditor numorus time and still can not find out why its overheating someone please help.other than overheating the car runs great no noises and no smoke no check engin lights nothing any clues????????????????

anthy08

Are the fans turning on?

tony97

Yes both work great

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Hello,first off- these motors do not bleed themselves out of air in the cooling system without assistance. You are chugging and gurgling a massive air bubble causing cavitation at the pump and hot pockets in the head (causing steam production). On the thermostat housing is a 10mm fitting that has a nipple like a brake bleeder, this is used to remove air from the cooling system before start-up and durring warm-up.
Honda thermostats for this model do not have a bleed port so air must be gradually removed durring WARM UP ONLY. Periodicly open the bleed screw to let air and bubbling fluids out, when the stream seems all fluid shut it off and wait another minute to try again.
If you are lucky, you havn't blown a head gasket. Keep the radiator cap off durring the bleeding air procedure and topped off at all times. When the thermostat opens you will see a noticable drop in fluid that must be maintained. Keep the radiator full until the thermostat open fully (fans running) then you may replace the cap after warm-up has occured.
If at anytime after warm-up you are throwing steam and bubbling at the radiator cap area, SOO SAD.

tony97

Another person had stated not to open the bleed valve which did not make since to me. How else are you going to get air out if you do not bleed air under load. Going to do it the way you have adviced. Would the car run as well (other than overheating)? Starts fine and run great. Thank you for any and all advice

tony97

If it was the head gasket would the car run so well as it is doing other than the overheating issue? Thank you

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Head gaskets fail on various degrees. Only time will tell (about a 10 mile trip of city driving) will eliminate the possibility. Some only leak when hot, some transfer water into the oil (the worst), some just leak oil from the side of the motor, some leak between cylinders and run terrible.
PS. Not that I am anybody here, I have been a shop owner and mechanic for 20+ years. Whatever that's worth. Good luck

tony97

All right just ran it until warm trying to releive any pressure. Fans did not come on it stayed at normal temp rang. Tried the bleed screw and got little to no flow from bleeder valve. Let it run for about ten minutes periodacly trying to bleed pressure. Same result little to no water and air flow. I would assume thermo but I just replaced it this past Thursday and before that another time about ten days ago. Any ideas?? Thank

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

The fan switch is on the thermostat housing, disconnect and short accross the two terminals to see if the fans come on. Also, a steady flow of water should run out in a clear stream (no bubbles) when bled completely. This bleeder is just slightly lower than the radiatorcap and when the radiator is full it should flow water. Is the lower radiator hose HOT? If it is then the thermostat is open, you can also touch the radiator to see if it has temp (HOT). A little help from gravity will go a long way. Point the car uphill slightly or drive up onto something like a curb then bleed it out. Be super carefull now, it's hot.

nus_dogg

It can still run well and overheats. Had it happens couple times before til I replaced the HG. I'm pretty sure your HG is toast.

Lost Again

IMHO, I've never bled the cooling system when the car is on and NEVER had issues......

Gen's with a bleeder:

Again, just my opinion - and the book. After closing up the cooling system. Open the bleeder, set heat to max - some require the car to be "on" (KO/EO) as the heater control valve is driven electronically. Slowly add coolant until a stready stream comes out of the bleeder.

Close the bleeder. Put the cap on to the "First click". Turn the blower motor off. Start the car and let it run....outside temps are in play as to how long....until the fans cycle. Shut car off. Top off coolant and call it a day. WARNING - ONLY ONE CLICK of the rad cap so pressure inside the rad does not build up.

Sorry, I just can't understand why someone tries to bleed the coolant with the engine running?

nus_dogg

The only time I do it KOER is when I bleed the system with the radiator cap open and no bleeder screw to be found and of course with heat set at max. Now, if there's a bleeder screw at the t-stat housing like on the F22s, I loosen that open KOEO, and fill it til it flows out solid then tighten it down.

holmesnmanny

a lot of times you can just open the bleeder valve while the car is running and it will push the air out lol

cd5jdm96

I agree, I had the same issues after replacing radiator, also, a friend had the same thing on his 90 rex. Lost again has it exactly right to bleed it correctly. Hope you get it fixed.

KidKavika

Definitely need to bleed that cooling system after you do any service work on a radiator.

LT1

Check your radiator cap, mine was in bad condition and i had a leak from it which caused it to overheat. If the seal around the radiator cap is bad replace, will cause overheating.