reno-honda28

so, we got a used accord about 2 years ago and it has been a nightmare every since. It started with an oil leak that quickly took the motor out and we replaced it with a new motor. about 6 months later tranny went out and we got it rebuilt. now for the last few months it has been in and out of the shop. It started with a puttering type thing which then went to stalling and as it did it more it became harder and harder to re-start. the D-4 light flashes and this more often then not signals we are gonna have trouble re-starting the car. at the shops advice we took it back to the tranny shop (they do all work on imports, not just tranny) and they checked speed sensor, tranny and all they could find was wiring between 2 were registring low but replaced them. the car didnt act up for them, so they thought it was fixed. I have replaced the "main-relay" twice due to a clicking noise under dash when this 1st started (yes, 2nd one was free), distributor cap and been assured it can not be "ecm", o2 sensor, distributor but yet my car is stalling out and leaving me or wife on side of road again. the owner of the tranny shop has called my car a nightmare, how can this be when it is a honda???? SO!!! to sum it up, "started puttering while driving", "stalling while puttering", "hard to restart motor after shut down", "clicking noise under dash", "D-4 light flashes", "real hard to start when its been raining" and now we are back top drive, stall, sit and wait, re-start and drive a few miles and stall again, re-start and drive again.....you get the picture. anyone got any ideas?

reno-honda28

i tried to give as much detail as i could think of. this has been going on for a few months now so any ideas at all would help.

Mishako129

First of all you need to check the D4 code which means it is a transmission code. To do that, you need to jumper the 2 prong connector located underneath the passenger side floorboard. You should see a wire with a connector. Jumper that and then turn the car to the ON position.

Here is a list of codes. This is for 90-93 but it should be the same for 95'

Look at this link:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=179566

Look for blinks: 1 solid blink means "10" and 1 short blink means "1'.

CODES:

1: Faulty , Disconnected or shorted lock-up solenoid A
2: Faulty , Disconnected or shorted lock-up solenoid B
3: Disconnected throttle angle sensor
4: Speed Sensor
5: Console switch
6: Off Console switch
7: Shift Solenoid A
8: Shift Solenoid B
9: NC Speed Sensor
10: Water Temperature Sensor
11: Ignition Coil
14: FAS Wire , PGMFI
15: NM Speed Sensor



The performance issues you are having is more than likely due to a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel injectors. I would put some fuel injector cleaner (seafoam is the best) and see if that helps. If it doesn't, it has to be your fuel pump OR it could be electrical like your cap/rotor, or spark plugs. Check the simple things first before you waste your money on bigger things. Also if you are strapped for cash you can do the simple things yourself. Changing spark plugs and the cap/rotor is a simple procedure that anyone with the right tools can do. Heck, mechanic work itself is not hard either, it just takes the right tools and instructions. Most people think mechanic work is some kind of "black art" that only a select few can learn but this is simply not true. Anyone can take an engine apart and fix a car. Problem is people fear what they don't understand and this fear keeps them from doing what is actually very simple. Its just a matter of faith.

NZXTInerTia

Or the fuel filter?

As for OP, you should really spend more time refining the key points of your issues. It will honestly make things a lot easier for us to understand. The more we understand the more we can help. You obviously have something wrong, any car even if its a Honda will not run if not maintained correctly. Check your distributor for anything that could be fouled, same with your plug wires/plugs. Sounds to me like something is restricting the engine, whether that be electronic or mechanical. What sort of condition is your alternator in?

reno-honda28

thanks to both of you for ideas i am willing to try. i do tend to get long winded as i wanted to make sure to give as much detail as i could so i could get help. as for plugs and wires and distributor (and pretty sure alternator was replaced also but will check to make sure) it was all new with motor so about 1 1/2 years max. have either of you ever heard of a motor "vapor-locking"? a guy at work said he used to see that in military when fuel line was shielded from heat, of course he is just a guy but hey i'm willing to look into it. fuel filter i'v heard is pretty easy and pump is harder when tank is full of gas . will let you guys know if i get it with any of these.

NZXTInerTia

The tanks are simple to drain, there is a 17mm bolt on the bottom. As far as removing the pump goes its honestly easier to cut a hole in the trunk rather than drop the tank. I will be making a write-up on this fairly soon.

holmesnmanny

First check for any stores engine codes. Just because it's not showing the light doesn't mean you don't have a stored code.

The only things you haven't messed with are the ignition switch and the distributor. I would get a junkyard ignition switch and if that doesn't fix it it i would take it back and get another coil and ignition control module.

If you want, you can pick up a spark tester and the next time it doesn't start do a quick test for spark as well as a dirty fuel pressure test to see which one it's not getting.

Lost Again

Just me but check the main ground (g101) on the drivers end of the TB.....be sure it is clean and tight.

NZXTInerTia

That's actually a really good suggestion. Our motors are way picky about that ground point.

Lost Again

Yes they are.....more than just just g101. I "jumped" to this as the motor had been replaced. IMHO, anytime you mess with the head, intake or tb and see "signs" of this then this is "in play" IMO. It takes all of five mintues and no cost to rule it out.

reno-honda28

what is this g101 and TB thingys you speak of? im kinda lost with some of these motor terms. i can fix almost anything if pointed in right direction and you guys are more help then the shop so far. i tried to start it yesterday and it acted like it wanted to start but never did and again today.

holmesnmanny

edited

Lost Again

And I like pic's ......I know I've posted this pic several times but here we go for the hundredth time

reno-honda28

well, i got it started and moved around but things haven't changed. i did manage to find the "g101" thingy and it appeared to be clean and good and snug. so far it doesnt seem to be any of these things as far as i can tell. can a fuel pump slowly go out to where it would work, not work, work, not work and so on? any other ideas or thoughts before i haul it back to the shop? oh, and the D4 light started flashing right after i got it started again.
and i havent check with spark tester but would it do spark sometimes and not others and if so what could cause that? someone mention plug wires would cause some of these things, like the puttering, any thought on that?

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

And may I say thank you. I looked all over the internet, found many references to the g101, but could not find a picture that pointed to the exact location. Everything kept saying TB but it's on the vacuum manifold at the rear of the IM.

Lost Again

OP- When it dies, we need to know what is missing - Fuel or Spark....or both.

Checking for codes (flashing D4) might lead to some answers...just me but an issue with the trans isn't going to stop the engine from running.

holmesnmanny

so in addition to having pins A6 and A11 swapped looks like they got the g101 different too lol

those silly 5th gen accords

Lost Again

Yea, they moved it from the t-stat housing (4th) to the end of the TB (5th, 6th). I guess they got tired of people changing the t-stat and forgetting to attach it .......my car won't run and all I did was change the t-stat?

holmesnmanny

lol I just realized I had it right but didn't realize it. I was thinking all along thermostat housing while actually translating TB into Throttle body but in my mind I was thinking thermostat so while i said it right I didn't realize I did.

So weird. lol

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

So I pulled the g101 ground and found a good deal of corrosion which I cleaned and then reattached the ground. Before I did I smeared a little dielectric grease on the bolt and wire connector. Was this a good idea or did I screw up?

NZXTInerTia

Dielectric grease won't harm anything.

reno-honda28

ok, so my car is at the shop and i spoke with them and they informed me that they figured it out at last. apparently there is something called an "Ignitor" and it has been slowly going bad and now it is completely bad and they can tell. does this sound correct to any of you?

DanInOttawa

Yes, the ignitor can certainly produce the some of the symptoms you're describing (a little hard to make out exactly what the issue is...)

That's why NZXTInerTia suggested you check out the distributor...

Now that the shop says they've figured it out, I'd be curious to see if it's the same one that "assured" you that it wasn't the distributor; if so, I'd be asking what they're going to be doing to make up all the cash you've thrown at the problem as the ignitor is a testable component.

reno-honda28

well, here i am back with you guys. So since i last updated the "Ignitor" was replaced and NOT THE PROBLEM. I have since taken it to yet another shop and the only thing they found was new computer. we got it and $900+ later the car is doing the same thing again. i have discovered the gas hand is not reading correctly but being out of gas has only been the cause of it not starting twice at most. the gas hand was pretty on spot until the last couple of months when someone stole the gas out of our car and i'm wondering if while stealing they knocked something loose in the tank that would make some of these problems. ANY MORE THOUGHTS GUYS? besides i have a hellish car

reno-honda28

this car has 2 shops and about 7 mechanics stumped. in oversight the car does random "not starting" and then out of the blue will run great for a few days and then leave me stranded for 10-20 minutes and then acts as if nothing is wrong. today is left me stuck for about an hour and it is driving me crazy. thanks