professorman

My 94 Accord hits LX the rev limiter at 5,250 RPM, which is 1k RPM before the redline. I do not take it to redline all that often, and only noticed this after 4 years of owning my car, but I would like to know if there is a reason for my low rev limiter?
I have a 94 Accord LX 5spd with about 145k miles on it now. I always do my maintenance and try to keep everything in tip top shape. I know I have a fuel cut off at 115MPH as well.

I noticed this the first time when I reved it up in neutral, then I thought it was something about neutral, so I tried it in first gear, and it happened too, and I tried it in 2nd gear and it happened as well. Does anyone else have any experience with this?

friday86

yeah... same thing happend to me when I had the SOHC engine... it was my timing belt, you should get that looked at ASAP! It could mess up your internals! I don't know if it's the timing belt on your engine, but it was on mine. Good luck!

professorman

I changed my timing belt at 105k miles.

professorman

anyone?

Slunk

I have a 97 lx and have ran it up to around 6k a few times and have never hit a rev limiter. Sounds like an ecu problem but I am not sure what it could be... sorry.

professorman

humm... One year later, and I still have this problem.

I wonder what can I look on to get this fixed?

I am not sure if this limiter occurs in 3rd gear as well, but it sure does in Neutral, 1st gear and 2nd gear.

DAfanatic

I have the same problem on my car only its a 1991 accord EX coupe. Ive change the fuel and ignition system. Any findings on this please post or pm me.

Mwsol

Also in the same boat. Anyone have any luck finding out what causes this?

nus_dogg

I'd check the TDC mark, and make sure you don't have any CEL on because it can be in LIMP Mode meaning safe mode which won't let you rev past certain point.

Mwsol

No CELs are occurring. There is a CEL bulb that emits light when turning the the key to the second on position and then goes away after 4-5 seconds. The vehicle runs great besides for hitting redline too soon.

wolfy47

i have heard that the rpm gauges arnt very reliable in these cars...just throwing that out there

shadetree101

Thats funny, I just changed my engine in my 95 Accord EX and it is now doing that same thing. BUT, my CEL is on and giving me the code for my EGR valve lift sensor. But my car may be in LIMP mode as nus stated...after I change my EGR and this issue persist then I too would like to know whats causing this and a salution...

h22a2JZGTE

im also seeing this problem on my 94 accord ex...it almost seems like it only happens when the engine is getting hot, b/c my ex climbs all the way to 6250 just fine when i havent gone no more than 10miles...and it seems to only limit the engine to 5250 in first gear as well (5spd)...but i do agree with the tach needle thing, it does seem abit off at times...

professorman

When I changed my timing belt, and I adjusted my timing to the correct position, my car had NO power in the low end. It screamed in the high end, but I dearly missed my low end torque. I could not figure it out with my mechanic, but we realized that purposely putting it one tooth advance did the trick. The car had all the low end power that I was used to, and not as preppy in high end, but I drive slow, so low end torque is more important to me than high end HP. I do not know if this is the root of my issue. I do not see how my car would be drivable with the timing in "the correct position" though. It was really hard to move off and really sluggish in the low end. It definitely screamingly came alive above 3k RPM, but I generally drive with my RPM below 3k.

My 'limited' RPM range is not an issue to me, because for me, even pushing my car, would mean shifting at 4k or MAX 4,300 RPM. It daily drives perfectly fine for me.

PR3_MONST3RCD5

it's not limp mode if it was u wouldn't be able to rev it past like 2gs

PR3_MONST3RCD5

from all of the mechanics I've talked to all told me it was an ecu issue I'll be swapping mine pretty soon I'll be on here letting you guys know how it goes

Suma

I busted the dist cap screws on my 1995 accord EX and had to remove it to fix it. When I put it on it was limited around 4K rpm. When it was cold, it had a hard time starting.

What was the issue? Distributor was 180 out of phase. Thing shouldn't have run but I drove over 45k with it like that. Not saying this is anyones issue, just something to look at if you (or someone else) removed your distributor.

professorman

I am the OP. I have FINALLY figured out mine. My timing was in fact off. It turns out that I have a slightly cracked cam-shaft, where the pully bolts on. A few years ago, my cam pully bolt got loose and my car was knocking like crazy. My mechanic saw the loose bolt and immediately screwed it in with some loctite.

With my 3rd timing belt change, I insisted that my mechanic should adjust my timing to be one tooth off. On the 2nd belt change, I had almost no power below 3k, so the problem was only fixed by going 1 tooth off. This made no sense to my mechanic, so this was when he observed that my cam had a stress fracture between the pulley and the cam itself, so in essence, my cam as play in it. This is not a big problem, because the bolt holds the cam pulley to the cam shaft.

Long story short, my timing was off, and I did not know it. I doubt anyone else will have the same reason as mine

accordturb96

yea I saw this as a timing issue, your mechanic should have never messed with changing teeth via the belt. On your obd1 you can adjust the timing via the distributor once the timing belt is exact. You jump the blue service connector under the glove box and use a timing light. Im guessing if this is the same mechanic who thought it was a grand idea to mess with the teeth on the belt then he didn't check this route. On these engines the tensioner can become loose and allow too much play and possibly allow teeth to skip. If you have ever tried turning the camshaft without the bottom end attached you know it takes a good amount of force to move so it doesnt take much to skip. Glad you figured it out. I know the key that holds the cam gear in place have a tendency to shear off or break too