Rebel Star

A little background on work I did on the Accord yesterday, which leads into the problem I'm having now:

Last week, when I turned the key in the ignition to the secodary position, I wouldn't get any lights on the dash as I'm used to seeing. When turning the key forward to position 3, the car would start, but as soon as I released the key (and it naturally falls back to position 2) the engine would quit. And again, no lights or anything or sign of life from the dash.

I called a few Honda dealers and spoke with various mechanics and the consensus was that I needed to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. That is what I did yesterday.

Now, with the key in position 2, I get lights and other signs of life (as one would normally expect to see) on the dash. However, when I move the key forward to position 3, the engine won't start. The starter motor is going and is chugging along, but nothing seems to fire in the engine.

My biggest question is: How can I fix this?

But, I realize that the answer to that question will probably come with answering several smaller ones first. So, let me know what other information I can provide to get some help in troubleshooting this, please.

I'm wondering if there is something I could have done wrong in the replacement of the ignition switch module I swapped out. Or if I could have knocked something loose... I've checked various fuses in the interior and underhood fuse boxes that appear to have something to do with the starter and ignition, but they all appear healthy. Could I have blown something else in swapping the parts I did yesterday?

Thank you in advance for any and all help!

Regards,
Greg

bjones

are you gettin fuel? are you getting spark?? start with basic things like this and get back to us

Rebel Star

Well, you've caught me. Honestly, perhaps I'm in the wrong thread here - but I'm a complete newbie when it comes to DIY car repair. Replacing that ignition switch module was the most I've ever done (outside changing the oil and replacing brake pads) in car care/repair on my own.

I'm not even sure how to go about checking whether or not I am getting a spark or fuel. So, at the risk of getting flamed here, either please advise me how to check for those things, or point me in the direction of the correct thread (even website if it applies).

Thanks in advance again,
Greg

P_Adams

This is a no-flame zone (well... almost always ) so don't worry.
No, you are in the correct forum.

The part you replaced was 35130-SV4-003 Ignition Switch, correct?
...and it was a new one, correct?

The next time you go to start the car, pay particular attention to a pump "Whirring" noise from the trunk area when you first turn the key to the 'run' position. You should hear it running for a few seconds as it pressurizes the fuel system. That would indicate that the main relay* was activating the fuel pump when the key powered up the vehicle.
If you don't hear anything, it was either too noisy to pick out over background noise or you may have an issue with the main relay.

Try that and let us know what you found.

P

*Main relay = actually two. One to power the Fuel Pump and a second to power the ECM. Both within the same relay case.

Rebel Star

The part I replaced has "35130-SV4-003" on the bag in which it came. I purchased it from a local Honda dealership's parts counter and assume it is new. I didn't specifically ask for new, though... lol hopefully it is new. I just went out to start the car and after inserting the key and turning it forward one position, the dash lights come on and I hear a whirring noise from the trunk area. It continues for a few seconds and then stops. When it stops the "check engine" light on the dash turns off. What should I look for next?

P_Adams

Well, you've pretty much confirmed the main relay and the fuel pump are ready to contribute, so lets go to the next easiest thing: Confirm Ignition.

If you've got a spare spark Plug laying around; pull any one sparkplug wire, plug in the spare and lay it against the valve cover.
Borrowing a second pair of eyes (friend or 'significant other' will do), crank the engine over and have someone observe the plug business end. You should see a quite obvious blue/white spark jump from the center electrode to the plug case.

addendum: A screwdriver can be substituted for the spare sparkplug but this is the more problamatic proceedure. Care must be taken to hold the screwdriver steady no more the 3/8" from the valve cover. Any furthur and the gap potential may become too great, and the ignition pulse could find an easier path thru you. This is to be avoided.

This is not the time nor place to find out you're a candidate for a pacemaker!

P

steven_b_03

lmao P, you always make me laugh...

if you have spark, pull a plug from the block and smell it for fuel...I haven't had to replace an ignition module yet, but I know that if something didn't get plugged in right/at all it could be a problem

Rebel Star

Thanks everyone for your help and replies. Especially P Adams for all your patient help! I finally got a second pair of eyes over to help me test for the spark. Great news is that as soon as I turned the key to the 3rd position, the engine came to life! And, of course, there was a spark. So, we replaced the spark plug and tried again and sure enough, the car was alive! I leave it to you experts to explain to me why this is... but I assume I can rest assured that I replaced the ignition switch module correctly (using the right part). What occurred after is out of the realm of my knowledge. If anyone cares to give me a post-mortem on that, I'd be interested and will check back occasionally for it. Thanks a ton, everyone (especially you P)! Regards, Greg

P_Adams

At the beginning of this whole exercise, was the weather such that you had some above freezing and some below freezing days? Where was the car during this interlude; garaged, sheltered or out in the elements?

P

Rebel Star

The car was garaged the entire time, and the entire procedure took place over several days (mostly because I had to work and couldn't dedicate time to the repair). There were some above-freezing and some below-freezing days and nights during that period. And even a night where my wife left the garage open all night, too.

P_Adams

I'm not going to advocate chasing it now, (what with the car running and all) but I suspect you've an underlying issue which may warrant chasing down once the weather warms up.

I had a car in the families livery (my wife's Civic) that one morning last winter just would not start.
Not a 'pop', not a Fart, nothing!
It cranked up a storm but just wouldn't fire. I left it for the following day, we had other Honda's she could jump in and there wasn't much hurry. Went out two days later and the &^% thing started after 3 revolutions like nothing happened.

What happened (You ask)??
We had snow on the ground from several days earlier and that night we were 'blessed' with a warm front that spread thru the area.
Ever see snow fog?
Yup we had it that night and it had soaked everything. The car wouldn't start...... &^&%!!!
The next two days we were blessed with a high pressure area parked right over New England; 34f degrees during the day and 15% relative humidity. The wires dryed out, the car started; all without me doing anything!
I suspected wires all along, and I could have started it using WD40, but..... WTH, it was easier to put her in another car 'till Monday.


Wait until it gets warmer
Start the car and let it warm up completely.
Take the spritz bottle from your wife's laundry room, fill it with water and start spraying the ignition wires while the engine is running. If you've an issue with pourous wire insulation, it will start skipping.
Let it continue to run. the heat from the engine block and the warm air flow from the radiator will dry them off again.

P