milespeed

howdy.. hoping you can help
94 accord LX with a check engine code 14 ( i think..it actually gives me two long then four short..is the first long light a staring codes light? )
anywho...car came to me as failed smog and i tuned her up and set timing and she runs great..
check engine wont go away.. i cleaned out IAC and new gaskets...i can excite it with 12 volts..( but the adjuster is frozen so cant adjust)..when i run 12 volts to it while engine running and all hooked up it idle seeks (red/yellow wire )..other side is ground (green) and has continuity...any advice?
I am currently pin testing the computer for continuity on A9 with the power side of IAC plug and checking all grounds i can find..thank you in advance ..miles
milespeed@gmail.com... 714.719.7117

holmesnmanny

Is there a pause in between the two long pauses ?

Test the iacv pins for ohms. Should be 8-15 ohms.

5v is normally reference volts. Im actually wondering if you're testing the iacv or not.

milespeed

yes it is the IAC
will test ohms.. the IAC should get 12 volts reference run circuit power i am researching
there is a relay with no power in under hood fuse block a 5 pin
there is also a 4 pin (ABS i am told) that has pwoer and no relation i believe,,, all fuses are good everywhere
check engine light gives long..long... short short short short
there is no code 24 in any references i have found..
as i said car runs good needs to get past smog and i cant make the check engine light go away
comes back immediately after clearing codes
help

milespeed

to clarify...i get a long light..a pause..then a long light followed by 4 short lights..repeat

holmesnmanny

It doesn't get reference volts, it gets switched battery voltage.

Have you actually tested the iacv like I said ?

Lost Again

Or as I read this.....you have a code 10 and a code 14.

Any chance you or someone has the two switched? Meaning the IAT (intake air temp) and the IACV connectors are switched - yes it can and has been done before. Simple question - what are the colors of the wires that are plugged into the IACV.

PS- if they are switched, the IAT is done - it gets ~5v as a ref - so if you put 12v to it....well it is done for.

Again, just the way I read this

milespeed

well i interpret the code to mean 1 ..and 14.... does 1 have a meaning?
i sent the car down the road running good til i can finish researching and finding IACV wiring diagram ..to and from computer and anything associated with it ...any help would be greatly appreciated..
Miles

GoodUsername

Does the car idle correctly? A code for the IAC basically means low voltage to the valve's motor. That could be a short somewhere or a problem with one of the drivers in the ECU (unless the ECU doesn't use a driver for switching battery voltage). I would check the resistance at both the terminals of the IACV and then check resistance of the wires running from ECU to the valve itself. Here is the service manual troubleshooting guide:

tech8

Code 1 is for heated oxygen sensor.
Code 14 is Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve

You're testing the wrong wires or the connector is plugged into the wrong component. The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector has a Red/Yel wire (IAT sensor input to ECM) and a Grn/Blu wire (ECM sensor ground for various sensors).

The Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve connector has a Yel/Blk wire (Voltage to IAC valve w/ ign in ON or START (voltage runs through Main Relay)) and a Blk/Blu wire (ECM IAC valve control).

Lost Again

I can only go by what you have posted - Long...long...short...short...short...short - that is a 10 and a 14, take a video to prove me wrong. Then add the testing procedures for the IAC and IACV...You get only a 5v signal on one of the wires to the IACV - that fits with one of the wires to the IAT. The IACV is 12v. So in my stupid head - you have the IAT connector connected to the IACV and the IACV connector connected to the IAT - or your are not testing the correct connector.

How many times have I seen/read where someone got the connectors on the IAT and IACV switch......enough to led me to this answer/question.

Simple way to prove me wrong - which you did not do - what are the colors of the two wires that are plugged into the IACV? - Answer the question please - I asked and you don't answer yet want more "testing" help.

Again - you tested a wire to the IACV and only got 5v as a ref signal - GUESSE what the IAT gets as a ref signal - and GUESS what - the connectors for the IAT and IACV are the same size and can be switched.

WHAT ARE THE COLORS OF THE TWO WIRES PLUGGED INTO THE IACV? I'LL BET YOU HAVE GRN/BLU AND RED/YEL - WHICH IS WRONG!

I'm trying to help, trust me I've done this for a long time and seen/read so many stories that it isn't even funny anymore.

EDIT: I see "tech8" posted.....I'm done.

milespeed

i appreciate your passion..
i will get the car back tomorrow and will get pictures video and carefully move through all the suggestions and tests ..
and ... i hope you are correct... it will make simple this problem
thank you all ~!

tech8

Since your codes are probably code 10 (Intake Air Temperature sensor) and code 14 (Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve), you most likely have the connectors switched.

holmesnmanny

Doesn't sound like he's getting it.

Takes less than five minutes to either test the connectors for volts and/or look at the colors of the wires.

Lost Again

Sorry for the way that read - my bad and yes I admit when I'm wrong. That was not called for.

And thank you for understanding it is a "passion" and nothing personal.

Again, as I read this thread - some how the IACV and the IAT connectors got switched - it can as has been done more times than you might think. As I stated, if they were switched, the IAT will need to be replaced as the 12v to it will have "melted" the sensor wire - if you need to replace it, a bone yard one will be fine, I can't think of the last time an OE one went bad.

milespeed

ok ya'll.. UPDATE
the client has not yet returned...but.. i had him be my man in Amsterdam...and he switched the wires (supposedly) on the two sensors (using my color codes for the wires you techs provided me )IACV and IAT...and cleared codes to now only having a code 10,,so the IACV is healed and the IAT is smoked i assumed... i ordered a new one for his visit Saturday..and had him send me pics of the two sensors he switched wires on and ... he switched the IACV with what looks like a coolant temperature switch..screwed into the block or head...so i am guessing there were 3 sensors with their wires swapped wrong some time back in its history..also... client claims the car is running better than it ever has ( they bought it with the check engine light on over a year ago and now need smog)
....more later once it comes to me and i can discover if the coolant temp switch and IAT also share the same type 2wire connector ....can be swapped..and if indeed the IAT is cooked and needs replaced
thank you all once again for your time . patience, and passion with me on this challenge

Lost Again

Good to hear it is slowly getting better.

When you get a chance to look at it - pic's, wire colors and color of the connectors can help many of us figure out what they are and where they belong.

I'll guess someone has done some pretty heavy work on the car before - intake off, removed head, engine swap - as normal day to day stuff most would never remove the connector to the IAT sensor....many forget it is even there as they hardly ever have any issues with just the IAT, that is why I suggested that even one from a bone yard should be fine.

milespeed

ok ya'll

SHE IS HEALTHY

car came and i checked his work and tested the IAC..it was toast..35 bucks new
cleared codes and she is off to the smog guy on Monday
thank you thank you~!

without wiring diagrams....we are Ray Charles singing familiar tunes but lost when new music is thrown down... ok a sad analogy..but i know what i know..and knowing systems and being an old dog with lots of automotive logic ...and Sherlock Holmes skills ..deductive and all that..gets pretty far but..you guys..dancing where ya know the song..are the shytt~!..thank you

Lost Again

Well now we just hope it will pass smog

Hope it does but if not you might want to start a new thread - different title - and post all of the numbers (O2, ect). There are many on here that can help with those. I understand it but it is just not my cup of coffee

milespeed

update.. she is still sick.. exhaust leak at mainfold (no cracked manifold this time )
readjust valves (too loose)
new O2 sensor and a prayer on Saturday to see if she flies..
Nox was too high to pass..and idle at time of test was at 1350 rpm

her numbers were around 3.1 oxygen and that is my clue to work on downstream issues......any ideas welcomed to also look at....
EGR working proper.... this vehicle has 200k on her..
i have a picture of the latest test on my fone but haven't got it on computer to upload yet
thanx all
Miles

Lost Again

Get the leak fixed and a new O2 with that many miles it is more of a maint item so IMHO replace it. Pull the plugs and inspect them along with the cap and rotor (they are "rated" for around 24K miles) - again regular maint items that should be replace if old/worn/due.

After that work. Pull the fuse to the ECU to re-set it. Then there is an "idle re-learn" process I would do.

Not sure if they "fail" the car for the idle speed in the state where the car is. If so and only after the above has been done and a check for any vac leaks then you might think about adjusting the base idle.

I hate suggesting anyone to adjust the idle, usually it only covers up another issue.....but since someone has been playing around with the car already we don't know if they adjusted it to cover up the IACV issue or not. Again there is a process/procedure to adjust the idle IF you have to - follow it. And agian to the idle re-learn after that.

At 200K one other thing I would suggest. Clean the EGR ports, there are write ups in the FAQ section. The egr valve can be fine but the ports to the intake get clogged up.

Put a timing light to it - be sure to jump the service connector - and be sure the timing is correct.

After that - send it back thru inspection, if it fails again. START A NEW THREAD with the numbers and all of things already done/checked/replaced. Trust me I'm not a very good smog person so by starting a new thread with "smog" in the title and the needed information those that are good with that stuff will be all over it. If you keep posting in this thread they might just skip over this one