professorman

My door lock just started acting up today. When I lock the door, it keeps trying to lock itself continuously. The only way to get it to stop, is to unlock the door.

I figured that my alarm might be messing up. I tried to get to my alarm to unplug it, but it a whole lot of work. I came and here and searched and I see a few people say that it could be the door lock actuator.

What do you guys think? Should I dig into my alarm checking it out or test the actuator first?

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Actuator is dying is my guess

Slo_Accord

hahaha, mine does that all the time. it just goes at random times too. idk what the expletive the prob is.

sony224422

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slo_Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahaha, mine does that all the time. it just goes at random times too. idk what the expletive the prob is. </TD></TR></TABLE>


same here haha. it stops after like 4 times.

tech8

Probably, it is the lock actuator. There are 2 rubber bump stops inside the actuator motor, one for when it unlocks and one for when it locks. One of rubber bump stops eventually will start to get worn out of position and may come off. When it gets worn down, one of the gear inside the actuator doesn't stop when it suppose to (e.g., when it tries to lock).

Sometimes you can glue the rubber bump stop back in position, using something like RTV sealant, etc. Or just replace the actuator.

professorman

That sound like a logical solution. I will try that and see what happens.

professorman

Is there any write-ups anywhere with the instructions for this? I am searching, but cant find anything in the archives to direct me.

professorman

I got it fixed. I followed these instructions from another tread. My lower bump stop had broken off. I took the bump stop and build it up with electrical tape using the tape to hold it in place. I cut the electrical tape into narrow strips and wrapped it around the bump stop and tape it to the bracket. I aso did the same to the upper bump stop, because it was disintegrating. My door is working like new again.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by btr24evr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I haven't been on accord boards in a while so maybe someone else has already solved this issue. This is for the 94-97 accords (not sure if it applies to other year accords. When I searched, the only solution I found was to replace the stock motor. So I ended up buying a couple dei aftermarket motors for the rear driver side and passenger side doors. After an easy installation on the rear door, I realized the front door was not as simple due to how the door lock links were placed. So then I just decided to take the old motor out to take a look. The motor is held on by three small phillips screws, and the motor is right under the actual locking mechanism that locks to the B pillar when door is shut. The motor is inside the door so you will have to stick your hands into the door. Taking the motor out was fairly easy. Taking out the bottom bolt that holds the window rail will allow pushing the rail aside, and thus easier removal of motor. Once the motor is out (I left the wires on and just worked on it hanging from the door), I took off the four phillips screw for the cover which exposes the actually locking motor and mechanical parts inside. Inside is a simple motor with a rotor type plate attached to it. If you look closely, you will see that there are two little rubber bump stops that tell the motor when the rotor has reached the end of its swing (locked or unlocked). I noticed that the rubber on the locked end of the swing was half broken off, thus the one second buzz when locking the door. I would imagine that if one of you have the entire rubber broken off, the buzzing might go on for much longer. My fix to this is just take out the mechanical parts, roll up a little electric tape, and tape it to where teh rubber bump stop should have been. Putting the motor back into the door was a little harder than taking it out because you have to latch it back onto the door lock. 30 minute of work and my lock functions like the day the car was purchased. Much better than spending 70 for a new actuator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

CheckmateL7

I own a 2004 Euro R and have been having this problem since last week i would like to know where can i get the Lock actuator to purchases? can the Lock actuator for the TXS work in the Euro R?

CheckmateL7

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CheckmateL7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I own a 2004 Euro R and have been having this problem since last week i would like to know where can i get the Lock actuator to purchases? can the Lock actuator for the TXS work in the Euro R?

CheckmateL7</TD></TR></TABLE>

Should, just go to your Honda/Acura dealership and get a new actuator.

TimberS

I just wanted to thank you for posting your fix to the actuator. Your instruction on how you repaired the problem was clear and concise...Kudo's to you! My problem has been repaired thanks to your posting...My wife is very happy now..11/8/2008 TimberS. good karma to you!