Noob@Cars

Hi, When the weather is cold, My car takes a long time to start, I have to turn the key maybe 5-10 times when its cold, & if its freezing maybe more, But eventually it starts, It did it last year in the cold weather also, When its warm, It'll start on the 1st key turn [like it suppose to]..When it was Hot last summer, it didnt start at all, Had to get it fixed..But its cold/freezing now, & im having to turn the key ALOT of times just so it starts, When it starts it'll cut off - then after another key turn, it'll start/stop again, then finally on the next it'll start...i was told it might be the ignition switch, Any suggestions would help, thanks

Earthworm Jim

I have the same problem but I'm in California. It's 48 degrees right now, I have a manual 1994 LX and it's acting as though it doesn't want to start too. You might want to try and rev a little while you're sitting in the car to help it heat up a bit. I wouldn't suggest going over board but lightly rev'n might not hurt.

brakedrum

To OP: I had the exact same symptoms a few years ago. Turned out to be the Ignition Control Module (Ignitor) inside the distributor. A couple of old school experiments in keeping the distributor housing protected from the coldest air at night proved me right. Just a few degrees made all the difference in how it started the next morning. Replaced ICM and all was well.

motegicivic

You can test the ICM, also test the coil.

Noob@Cars

If i bring it to auto zone/advanced auto parts will they test it for me? i have volt/amp testing thingy will that work? I looked up ICM its expensive, hopefully its something else thanks for your suggestions & replies..appreciate it

brakedrum

My problem happened during a brutal cold spell in winter and I was working outside. I tested the coil (which is external and easily reached) and it checked out okay. I had good plugs, wires, cap and rotor and wanted to test the ICM in the exact atmospheric conditions that the hard starting was happening, but it was just too cold outside. I wrapped a towel around the distributor itself while the engine was still warm one evening. The next morning the engine started right up. Left the towel off the next night and had hard starting the following morning. That told me what I needed to know. One night when temperature was supposed to go down to about 3º I placed a Hot Hands pad on the distributor before wrapping the towel. Unconventional as heck, but I solved the problem.

I do want to ask if puncturing the shielding on the ICM wires in order to test it would do any harm? If I thought I could have tested it without taking it completely out of the distributor I might have tried it, even in 15º, but I was worried about causing electrical arcing in the distributor by puncturing that shielding.

holmesnmanny

You could try testing the coolant temperature sensor that is the two wire connector below the distributor. Warm the car up until the fans come on and turn the car off and disconnect the connector and test for ohms between the two prongs on the sensor itself. Should be 200-400 ohms.