damn_import_culture

so my pedal is not that strong feeling i was told i can bleed it and that should solve it so how do i do this?? is there a bleeder screw and procedure similar to doing your brakes???
thanx

hondamark35

yeah, it's basicly the same procedure as bleeding brakes. slave cylinder is to the left of the front/center motor mount.

i think an 8mm bleeder... be sure you use a quality wrench (or quality socket to break it loose, then wrench to open and close) because these tend to stick and then round off..

i start with a catch pan under the slave, and let it gravity bleed most of the old fluid out first, just keep the master cylinder topped off. then regular bleeding.

damn_import_culture

well im sure the clutch is burnt out cause i have pressure and put it in gear let it out and nothing happens it just sits and idles new clutch time i suppose
anyone know what size the bolts to remove the cvs are on this my civics were 32mm this is my first accord

hondamark35

i want to say 36mm... someone should be able to back me up on that.

before you go through all the work to replace the clutch, make sure the inner CV joints havn't failed. you can get the same condition (let clutch out, nothing happens) if one of the axles has come loose or broke.

damn_import_culture

ok thanx for the tip ill check the shafts once im ready to get it in the air

damn_import_culture

do i need any other specialty sockets other then the 36mm for the cv or wll a standard 8-24mm socket set get me by for the rest of the disassembly?????
thanx,
brandon

hondamark35

yeah as far as socket sizes, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm (for non-OE bat. cables and starter), 14mm, 17mm and 19mm. also a prybar will come in handy, extensions, universal joints or "wobblers," pliers... typical stuff.

damn_import_culture

so the guide pins on my trans wont go into the block and ive tried prying jacking turning pushing pulling on the trany and the just wont pop in ???
why??? the input shaft is in the clutch and everything like it is suppossed to be so what do i do???

damn_import_culture

same problem still any advice ??? i can not get the dowel pins of the trans to mate up in the block off by as little as a 1/4" please help i want my car back

hondamark35

all i can really say is fight it till it goes... for me, getting the shaft splined to the clutch is the hardest part. once i get it there everything else usually goes smoothly.. did you put a little grease on the splines?

i would confirm 100% that nothing is getting in the way or binding up on the clutch or whatnot. if you can confirm that then you can try slowly, carefully pulling the transmission up with the bolts... i've tried this several times without issue, but the consequence/risk of failure it a little higher this way (stripped threads in block, whatever is binding could break including the new clutch...).

you can also have someone turn the crankshaft (CCW) with a ratchet and 19mm socket while you wrestle the transmission into place. if the splines are binding, this can sometimes free them up.

damn_import_culture

yeah we have tried all these things and we pulled it again making sure the clutch truely fit and it does try #2 tommorow is there a specific pattern for tightening the pressure plate bolts (ex: star pattern for lug nuts????)

hondamark35

it's always good to move in some sort of star/cris-cross pattern. i'm sure a manual would give you a sequencial pattern, but i usually just do the front lower corner (near the slave cylinder) and the one tucked up below the thermo. housing (from the engine side, into the transmission). those two are pretty well right across from each other, so it keeps things even.

damn_import_culture

thanx for all the insight hondamark35 big attempt #2 is tonight so ill have to see how it goes

damn_import_culture

solved throwout bearing was not properly on clutch fork now to fix hack wiring and fire it up tommorow or wendsday

hondamark35

glad you found the bind. hope it runs well for you.

damn_import_culture

what is the procedure to bleed the clutch i tried pushing it to the floor and then opening the bleeder and no fluid came out??

hondamark35

i usually let it gravity bleed first, with the master cylinder full, open the bleeder and let gravity do the work. when you get a steady flow of fluid coming out of the bleeder then you know you're ready to start bleeding.

as you may expect, the pedal is going to feel different from bleeding the brakes. procedure is the same though... pressurize-loosen-tighten-repeat.

damn_import_culture

i have fluid leaking somewhere on the back side of the trans but am unsure where so ill have to track that down and go from there

damn_import_culture

ok well cars back driving again till the spark plugs fouled out from bad grommets and seals but i noticed the speedo doesnt work what plug and where is it on the harness cause i have this plug from the tranny pull the pins out and i dont know what color goes where on the plug???

damn_import_culture

still got this ??? please help me out

hondamark35

i don't have that memorized yet... sorry.

hondahookup.com has downloadable PDF manuals if you don't have one already. when you register on the site it gives you access to the manuals download page. that should show you the pin/wire locations.

damn_import_culture

ok that helps more then no answer thanx again for all your help