NickJones21

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/img0136wr.jpg/

Can someone tell me where this vacuum line goes? I bought the car from someone and found it hanging there, also cleaned out the 2 valves that causes idle issue plugged second hole in intake STILL MAJOR suction to that hole...valve stuck open? way to fix it? please help me find where this vacuum line goes in picture form if u can. I ride a motorcycle, no clue about hondas. ive tried to find the diagram online saw a few id guess vacuum line 24 if u have seen the diagram. Also whats this reset the ecu??? Do i need a new throttle body also...???

GeoffCB7

There is a diagram under your hood showing you where the vacuum lines go.
The one you're pointing at goes to the vacuum control box, or something along those lines.
Here is a diagram:


To reset the ECU, pull the under hood BACK UP fuse for about 20 seconds. Plug it back in and check for codes.

Why do you need a new throttle body?

NickJones21

Well, in the photo the one capped off is the one i traced it actually went to the intake solenoid valve. I do not have the OEM Hood there for i did not have the diagram. I have changed the IACV even cleaned them still having lumpy idle, i ordered a new radiator cause mine is crap will replace coolant and bleed out the air. Will be changing TPS also. How do u adjust idle on the car? Ive read a lot about the honda idle issue but everything that ive been told to do STILL my problem persists. Also at full warm up my Check engine light comes on. Why??? It doesn't come on when WARMING up just when its already warm. My next step is to get it tested on the codes but to save myself a bit of money im tracing what i can.

Dennis Anderson

The 90-93 Accords have an idle boost valve on the left (drivers side) of the intake plenum nearest the brake master cylinder. It lets air into the intake when you start the car. As soon as the car starts vacuum closes the valve. The diaphragm rots over time and develops a leak. The vacuum at idle is insufficient to close the valve, so the idle jumps up to between 1000-3000 rpm, depending on how big the hole in the diaphragm is. This increases the vacuum enough to overcome the leak in the diaphragm and the valve closes. As soon as the idle drops the process starts all over again. Everyone seems to blame the IACV, but that only has a range of 400 RPM or they blame the fast idle valve. They overlook the boost valve because it has no vacuume hoses or wires going to it. Just pull the boost valve off (2 screws) and put a piece of duct tape under it to cover the 1/2 inch hole in the plenum. Then replace the valve. If this fixes the problem the valve is about $90 at the dealer or you can just run it with the duct tape in place.