vfeezy

I have a 1992 Honda accord which randomly dies when stopping but starts right up. I have a new distributer, igniter, IACV, plugs, wires. Also, sometimes I can push the accelerator to the floor while driving and the car slowly accelerates and ***** at 3k rpm. If I cut off the engine and restart it sometimes it runs fine no stalling and it shifts into passing gear and redlines when pushed real hard like nothing is wrong. It does not depend on the weather on if it wants to run good or not. It just does what it wants to.

MAD_MIKE

Verify fuel pressure.
If the fuel pressure is on the low side the pump may be slowly dying or the filter may be clogged.

Did you change the IACV due to this problem?
Did you verify the wiring was intact with correct voltage?

vfeezy

I changed the IACV with a new one. The distributor is new, the plugs and the wires. I pulled each wire off one by one to listenedd to the motor to see if the sound changed which it did. Check all of the other wiring unplugging them and re-plugging them also. I have not checked the fuel pump but I ordered a new sock/screen for the tank and will be changing that this weekend. The fuel filter is new also.

I will try to upload a short video of what happens soon

MAD_MIKE

Right. But is the reason why you changed it was because the engine was doing the same thing before?
If so you may want to check your wiring to the IACV, look for loose connections, damaged wiring, corroded pins, etc.

Verify there are no stored codes in the ECU.

tim73

Make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks...with your brake boost...brake booster vacuum line.

vfeezy

It idling up and down so I changed the IACV. When I unplug it the engine dies. The pins on the IACV are good from what I see (no corrosion). All of the wiring on the distributor are new. The igniter is new also it came in the distributor. I have to learn how to read the codes.

vfeezy

Since the lines are normally cheap I will replace them. Sometimes the brakes do feel ike they are hard and like they may hive out.

MAD_MIKE

Verify fuel pressure next. If the pressure is low this may be contributing to the dying. Check the basics. Fuel(pressure), Air(filter), and spark(color).

f22b-dohc

Check ground (from battery to engine / chassis)

Un plug re plug pump

vfeezy

I rented the fuel pressure test gauge from Autozone but they did not have the part I needed to check the pressure. So I changed the pressure regulator with one from the junk yard and I am having the same issue. What are the odds that the replacement is bad. I have not dropped the tank yet to check the fuel pump sock but I will probably do that this weekend. And since I will be in there I will just change the fuel pump in case it is about to go out. It seems like it is something with the fuel delivery since when I push the accelerator the rpm drops and than rise. Could it be the throttle position sensor?

New parts are cheaper than a new car.

Here are the items that are new so far.

Fuel filter, IACV, distributor and all of the internals, plugs, wires, speed sensor, alternator, battery and all four motor/transmission mounts

vfeezy

I checked and cleaned all of the grounds. Still nothing worked so far.

MAD_MIKE

Have you checked the FITV? Fluctuating idle is usually due to the FITV needing to be cleaned and the plastic screw snugged back down.

Back probe the TPS with a volt meter with the key turned to II(ON) with the engine OFF. There should be a smooth linear change in the voltage output.

vfeezy

Re: 92 Accord Randomly Dies When braking / Lack of Power
Have you checked the FITV? Fluctuating idle is usually due to the FITV needing to be cleaned and the plastic screw snugged back down.

I took the FITV off and cleaned it and adjusted the screw. That still did not help. Could it be bad.

Back probe the TPS with a volt meter with the key turned to II(ON) with the engine OFF. There should be a smooth linear change in the voltage output.

I'll try that, I will scan the manual for the instructions.

vfeezy

I checked the fuel pump and it is sending in the correct pressure from the tank to the front. I will be testing the TPS this week. I have not been able to work on the car lately tied up at work for hours.

holmesnmanny

This sounds a lot like a lazy oxygen sensor(just plain bad). My first guess is the iacv filter would be clogged but since you got a new one I would rule that out.

I would probably check for an exhaust leak before placing any oxygen sensor using the seafoam method.

vfeezy

holmesnmanny, how do you check for an exhaust leak. I did a visual inspection but everything seems tight. I don't hear any noise like air leaking from the manifold but it could be.

holmesnmanny

On a cold start, where the car is idling high, you will gently and very slowly pour a light amount of seafoam into the brake booster hose after disconnecting it from the check valve. You only want to put a little bit at a time, then quickly look at the exhaust all the way from the exhaust manifold to past the oxygen sensor. There should be no white smoke leaking out. If there is, you have a leak.

You can first simply warm the car up, then disconnect the oxygen sensor connector so that it throws a code(this is what you want). Then drive it and see if the issue subsides. If it does, then the oxygen sensor is bad.

vfeezy

holmesmanny.. Well I don't have any exhaust leaks but the way I found out is not the way I intended to.

Last night I put gas so that I can do all of the test. Going to the station the car ran fine. Than after I got home and the car sat for a while I started the car and it had smoke coming out of the exhaust like I was spraying for mosquitoes. Than as the car was running the temperature gauge slowly rose to high, if I turn on the AC it dropped fast (both fans were turning with AC on). The low speed radiator fan is new, water pump new is there a temperature switch that could be going bad.

The car also has a rough idle like a plug is fowled but it was not doing this before I changed the fuel pump. I will check the plugs over the weekend but it seems odd for the smoke and rough idle to come all at once.

vfeezy

Finally got a chance to check some things. When I put the car in gear it runs fine no hi/lo idle But I still am having the issue with it not accelerating or picking up speed fast. When I am riding with the AC on if I come to a complete stop the motor idles down real low and may kill sometimes. Could the Idle control or Idle control air valve do this. Not the electronic one but the one with the works with the engine temperature. The one with the valve that you can close to adjust the idle issues. Could it be getting stuck when driving?

holmesnmanny

How exactly did you test for an exhaust leak ? How exactly did you determine you did not have an exhaust leak ?

vfeezy

With all of the rain out here in Texas I ended up putting contaminated gas in my car which caused it to start smoking. I used this to my advantage to see if there was any signs of smoke coming from any part of the exhaust. I am not sure if this was the right or a good way to check but I figured it was an option since I had filled up.

scubacamper

I had a similar issue a while back on my 1990 accord; only not EXACTLY the same. Nonetheless, something to check: your brake booster may have a bad diaphragm, forcing brake fluid into the vacuum line and into your intake, burning the brake fluid & expelling thick clouds of grey smoke, that smells a bit like cat urine. It causes performance issues too.

Does it seem like you're losing brake fluid? You might have this issue (?).

vfeezy

I have to check the fluid. Sometimes it feels as if the brake pads are low and I have to pump the brakes to stop. I checked the pads but they are not low but the pedal feels like it gets stuck up and I have to push real hard to stop the car.

scubacamper

To me, that really sounds like a squishy booster - disclaimer: I'm no professional - just a weekend warrior.