coolswimmerjon

I am replacing the rear hub/bearing, brake caliper, rotor, pads or both sides of my *Corrected* 97 (sorry I have a 95 and 97 wagon) Accord EX wagon 2.2L with ABS.

First loosen the lug nuts before lifting the car up or you can set the parking brake to hold the wheel while you loosen the lug nuts. Once the car is up in the air secure with a jack stand or step chock.





Use a chisel or flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pry the hub nut cover off. Once you get it started just work your way around and it'll pop off.







You'll need to unstake the hub nut. I found that hammering a flat head screwdriver into the space worked great.



You'll need a 36mm socket and a breaker bar to loosen and remove the hub nut.



The screws holding the rotor onto the hub are a pain. I've only been able to do it with an impact driver. Make sure you use a bit that completely fills the head of the screw or you are much more likely to strip it. Set the impact driver and give it a couple good whacks with a hammer and it should do it. If not it'll strip the screw. I've had to drill a couple out of an old Civic I used to have and it was no fun. Luckily I had no trouble with any of the four on the Accord here.





Loosen and remove the two 14mm bolts holding the brake caliper to the bracket. Have a wire or rope ready to secure the caliper to the suspension so that the weight of the caliper does not hang on the brake line hose.







If you aren't replacing the brake caliper this tool can be used to screw the piston back into the caliper. Loosen your brake fluid reservoir cap to allow the fluid to be pushed back up.



Remove the brake pads. Loosen and remove the two 14mm bolts securing the caliper bracket to the knuckle. You may need a little more leverage due to rust.







This step might not be necessary if your rotor is easily loosened. Using two 8 x 1.25mm pitch bolts at least 25mm long, screw them into the two screw holes in the rotor that you did not just remove screws from. Tighten them slowly alternating one turn at a time to push the rotor away from the hub. Remove the rotor.





At this point you should be able to wiggle and work the hub/bearing off. Note the washer on the outside of the hub. You will be reusing this.





Clean the spindle off with a light sanding and brake cleaner.



Make sure your new hub/bearing has the ABS ring on it and generally looks the same.







Push the new hub/bearing all the way onto the spindle, followed by the washer. Hand thread the hub nut back on and hand tighten as far as possible.





The hub nut should be torqued to 181 ft/lbs. After torquing use a flat head screwdriver and hammer to "stake" the nut. Basically you are hammering back down the portion you had previously pried up to remove the nut.

Put the new rotor on ensuring that the screw holes with the beveled edges line up with the screw holes on the hub. There is some debate as to whether the screws holding the rotor to the hub are necessary. I chose to put the screws back in but just snugged them up, I didn't wrench them down. They are only supposed to be torqued to 7 ft/lbs anyway.







If you aren't putting a new bracket on you can use a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the bracket prior to reinstall. Make sure the bracket sliding pins move freely in and out. You can remove them and clean them with a wire brush, sand paper, and brake cleaner. Reapply brake lube (I know I used axle grease) to the sliding pins before placing back in the bracket. Make sure pin boots are secured in place.







Secure the caliper bracket to the knuckle using the two bolts you removed previously. Torque the bracket bolts to 28 ft/lbs. Place the new pad clips into the bracket.



If replacing the brake caliper, Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin in the picture and push the hinge pin out.





Remove the the two 14mm bolts in the picture securing the brake caliper to the parking brake line.





Loosen and remove the 12mm brake line banjo bolt from the caliper. You should then be able to completely remove the caliper and hang the new one in it's place.



Secure the new caliper with the two bolts connecting it to the parking brake line. Torque bolts to 17 ft/lbs.



Place the hinge pin back in connecting the caliper to the parking brake line. You may need to push the spring lever back to line up the holes. Place the cotter pin back in position. Screw the brake line banjo bolt into the brake caliper using a NEW copper washer on either side and torque to 25 ft/lbs.

Select the pads that match the ones you took off. Make sure the inside one has the tab sticking out on the same side.



Using brake grease lube the backs of the brake pads and the exposed surface of the new clips in the brake caliper bracket that will hold the pads.
don't get any grease on the rotor. Place the pads in the caliper bracket. The pad with the metal tab sticking out goes on the inside.





Place the brake caliper over the pads and bolt it to the bracket. If the caliper does not fit you may need to screw the piston in farther. Torque the two bolts to 17 ft/lbs. Tap the hub nut cover back on with a hammer.





Place your wheels and lug nuts back on and torque to 80 ft/lbs in a crisscross pattern.

Perform the same procedure for the opposite side.

You should bleed the brakes in the following order if you disconnected the brake line or opened the bleeder at any time. Rear Right, Front Left, Rear Left, Front Right. It would be a good idea to completely flush the fluid out with new stuff since you are doing it anyway.

Your parking brake lever may need adjusted after this procedure.

This is my first write-up. Let me know if I missed or need to correct anything. Also, Does anyone know if it is against forum rules to post photocopies of pages from the factory service manual?

HonBeer

My Honda service manual says 134 ft. pounds on the spindle nut. Not 181ft. pounds. Your giving wrong info.

coolswimmerjon

My manual states;



Ah, it looks like two different torque numbers are specified. KH is USA Accords I believe so that means we are the only ones that use the 134 ft/lbs torque setting for the spindle.

**edit** due to it being a wagon and rear spindle nut the same size as the front the correct torque is believed to be the 181 ft/lbs originally stated.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

The front hub nut is torqued to 181 flb. and the rear to 134 flb. The front is removed with a 36 mm socket and the rear with a 30 mm.

As to removing the screws that hold the rotors to the hubs, if you use JIS driver instead of a Phillips it will go much easier.

coolswimmerjon

I definitely used a 36mm socket on the rear nut. Maybe the Wagon is different.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

My rear nut is smaller than the front. But yours is a wagon and mine is not. Perhaps that is the difference. I had thought that all the spindles were the same.

OK, so I looked it up in the Majestic Honda catalog and found that on the wagon, the rear nut is the same size as the front nut. So it makes sense that they would use the same torque. I will keep that in mind when I go to the Pick-and-pull. But I don't think I have ever seen an EX wagon there, only the LX.

HonBeer

HaHa I was correct. Thanks Fitz!