rockshmo

Hi all, first let me start off by saying I've read through all the other posts about this topic on this site, and others.

So down to it, I bought this car pretty cheap because the crank seal needed replacing drove it home leaking oil and there it sat for a few months before I had the time/money to work on it. Finally start working on it and this is what I've done so far..

- Tried starting it to move it into where I was going to be working on it, wouldn't fire up, found that I wasn't getting fuel so I pulled the Main Relay and tested it. It was bad, replaced with OEM Honda relay.

- Pulled the engine and replaced crank seal (timing belt side) along with the balancer shaft seal, water pump and both timing belts.

- Put the engine back in, was getting fuel now, but no spark. Didn't test for spark before I pulled the engine because I thought it was just a fuel issue.

- Re-tested Main Relay it all checks out, distributor cap was cracked so I replaced the cap & rotor. Still nothing. Double checked all my connections made sure I didn't simply forget to plug something in, all good.

- Cleaned ground wire on the bottom of the thermostat housing, the CEL comes on when you turn the key on but goes out after 2 seconds, checked for codes anyway but it just stays on solid when I jump the 2-pin connector.

Now here's where I stand I'm not getting spark from the wires, or the cap (tested using HEI spark tester). I pulled the cap/rotor/shield off the distributor and began testing the igniter and coil. I wasn't getting spark at the coil so I tested the igniter with my multi-meter and got battery voltage on the black/yellow wire and the white/blue wire (mine was actually solid orange xD) also had battery voltage there. The third test from the Haynes manual had me confused - testing the yellow/green wire and the ECU. Check for continuity between the blue wire from the tachometer terminal and igniter. I didn't see any blue wires in there so if someone could elaborate on that I can test that and post the results, I figured it should at least give me spark with battery voltage coming from it.

When I tested the coil I got .8 Ohms and around 22k Ohms which appears to be correct, although the k Ohms is in the rage of the 92/93 model but would it make enough of a difference to cause it not to start? Could it just be a 92 model distributor? Also yes I checked all the fuses and they're all good, timing is good but I did notice when we had it on TDC the rotor was pointed right at the #1 plug location BUT the piece on the shaft under the rotor (looks like it sends or receives signal from the TDC/Crank/Cyl sensor) was not lined up with the little medal strip on that sensor.

I've run out of things to test and I'm stumped as to why I'm not getting spark, like I said the car ran before it sat for a couple months and we never touched the distributor/ignition system before pulling the engine. Hopefully I supplied enough information for you guys and someone can respond with a fix for me, maybe something simple I'm just over-looking. (I hope)

Thanks in advance!

Bad_dude

Test the resistance on the wires. A bad wire could be no spark. If the resistance is over 18Kohm then it's bad. Spend the $44 to buy new OEM wire made by Sumitomo. The best wires for the F22 is the stock OEM wires. It's better than even NGKs.

rockshmo

But I'm still not getting spark at the coil so even with new wires they won't be getting spark. I do plan on replacing the plugs/wires once I get spark at the coil/cap.

Also just tested the MAP sensor got 5v between the red/white wire and battery negative and 5v between the red/white wire and the blue/white wire so all is good there.

Bad_dude

Are you certain that your coil is good? Get one from the junkyard just for testing. Check the wiring real carefully, especially the ones by the dizzy and make sure there's no breakage or metal exposure. Check all your ground points. Check that big ground below by the tranny.

GhostAccord

rockshmo,
When you turn the ignition to II do you hear the fuel pump prime? Sorry, I didn't take the time to read your novel.

Bad dude,
The main ECU/ignition ground (G101) is on the one on the thermostat housing.

rockshmo

Haha sorry for the long first post, just wanted to be thorough.

It's running now anyway, just picked up a new distributor because everything I tested had good results but would not spark. Got it new for around $20 more than a new igniter or coil so I can't compain.

Thanks anyway.

GhostAccord

Glad to hear you got it up and running.

Usually when everything tests OK it is the ignitor that is at fault. Probably could have gotten away with just swapping out the ignitor.