racing4life

I am replacing a timing belt on a 2.2l accord. Followed all the instructions but the belt is still loose.

I got everything installed and timed, turned the motor ccw and tightened the tensioner bolt but its still way too loose.

I seem to have a similar issue to posting: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...3#post43086873

but i did not see any solution to the problem.

Any advice/help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

nus_dogg

Do this and see if it'll help.

TDC the motor. Crank it CCW two to three times and back to TDC. Back the tensioner bolt 2/3 of a turn off and re-tighten it. Then, while the motor is still TDC, you'll want to turn it three teeth CCW, loosen the tensioner adjusting bolt and retighten.

This will properly tension your Timing Belt. I've done this on my F22, H22, buddy and my bro's GSR engine. It works for me. Good Luck!

TouringAccord

after rotating the engine and loosening the adjusting bolt, do not tighten the adjusting bolt yet. now rotate the engine 3 teeth ccw (with the adjusting nut loose), then tighten the adjusting nut.

racing4life

Thank you Nus dog and Touring Accord, I tried both of your recomendations yet this belt is still extremely loose.

When looking at the spot where the lock bolt can go (B in the pic below), in order to get proper tension on the belt, the bottom of the slot on the 'timing belt adjuster arm' is about 1/2 inch above the spot where the bolt would go? Hope my description makes sense.

TouringAccord

out of curiosity, did you verify the new belt was the correct belt by comparing the part number with the old belt?

racing4life

Yes, I did. It is correct and when compared to the old belt the sizes are exactly the same...
I do not remeber checking the tension on the old belt before I took it off.

What do you think about the slot on the tensioner being so far off?

TouringAccord

doesn't make sense, it's shouldn't be that far up. unless the timing belt was too long, then that would make sense.

did you replace the tensioners as well?

nus_dogg

Are you using a Honda water pump? I'm just wondering if the aftermarket water pump has a different size water pump gear?? Don't know just some thoughts.

GunSamir

Hi, I had a similar issue on my F18 engine when i changed the timing belt. It turned out that the new one was one tooth longer than the correct one (113 instead of 112). So I'm thinking your timing belt is not the correct one too!
otherwise there might be something preventing your tension adjusting arm from going all the way up to the tightened position.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Are these OEM parts you're using?

I've had issues with the Autozone/Advanced Auto branded belt sizing, especially for the accessory belts. I ended up using like a Ford Ranger belt for my power steering and I forgot what my AC/alt one was

MAD_MIKE

racing4life just to be redundant. What engine and year car do you have, also what was the brand and part number of the belt you received? I think the VTEC belt is slightly longer than the non VTEC belt.

AIMandroman

I am having the same issue with my 1997 Accord DX with F22B2. I have two timing belts: the old one that I replaced, and the new one. Both are too slack. They flop around like a wounded duck when the engine is started. For proper tension to be achieved, the bolt that locks the tensioner arm would be outside of the slot altogether.
I guess the stupid question is where does the washer go on the dual-tensioner set up? Because any position that I put the washer seems to not achieve enough tension. Is there a specific sequence of what to do first, second, etc?
Thanks.

94 accord typeR

crank and cam pulleys are stationary
water pump pulley is free moving
push the tensioner up to remove tension from the water pump side of the belt and make sure the cam/crank doesnt rotate

MAD_MIKE

Belt brand? Part number?
Even if your block says 'B2' are you sure there hasn't been a 'B1' VTEC head installed?
B2 belts are longer than B1, so if the head was replaced with a VTEC head you would need to use a VTEC B1 belt.

holmesnmanny

You need to go into the faq's sticky and look at the timing belt replacement thread first. It should answer your questions.

Dieskyver

MM, Just swapped a 96 f22b2 for a b1 vtec head. I'm having this same problem. The non vtec timing belt is LARGER that the vtec? I was under the impression vtec was larger. I may have the wrong belt then. Can you cross ref? The part store gave me dayco kit #wp187k1a and the belt itself is #95187bu. And also a #95186bu belt

GhostAccord

Yes the F22B2 Non VTEC belt is longer than the F22B1 VTEC belt.

Honda Part number cross reference;

1994/97 - F22B1 VTEC
14400-P0A-004 - Timing belt (112RU24 D-100) (UNITTA) 112 tooth count

1994/97 - F22B2 Non VTEC
14400-PT0-004 - Timing belt (113RU24 A-555) (UNITTA) 113 tooth count

The F22B2 is longer buy a tooth (approx. 3/8" - 1/2")... this would be enough to cause a no start and/or floppy belt tension.

I'm not sure about Dayco part numbers, you would have to look that up. I'm sure the information is available on the internet somewhere.

MAD_MIKE

When doing a head swap, be it B1 or H22 for 'G' conversion, you always use the belt for the HEAD.
B2 belt is a tooth longer than the B1, you will never get the belt tensioned with the wrong belt.
Purchase a B1 belt.

Dieskyver

That's probly my issue. I was aware enough to get the vtec belt but I don't think that's what I walked out of the store with.
I wouldn't think this causes a loss of power/no start when at operating temp??? Would that be a separate issue/thread? No dtc's sept p0141...and a 1253(gotta get an ecu connector for vtec).
BTW. Thanks for all your contributions. Your names will be forever cemented into the googlenet.

MAD_MIKE

If the cam/spark timing is off enough yes it can cause hard/no start issues. However, depending on what else has been(or has not) been changed may cause hot start issues.
After you get the belt fixed verify all your wire harness is intact, has no damage or corrosion on terminals. There may be an intermittent connection that may only show up when the engine is heat soaked.

Dieskyver

After cross referencing the belt # online, its definitely the wrong one. I'm not too worried about the codes at this point. I checked the ohms on the DnStrm O2 sens. and its bad but didnt think it was causing my loss o power/stall. It's a Nonadjustable(whoda thunk) dizzy so the ignition timing is probly right. Haven't put a light on it. I'm new at efi elec ignition stuff but its been fun learning.
The darn thing runs like a champ til it warms up then won't crank till cools off. I guess I'll know when I swap belts. Thanks again.

MAD_MIKE

Until you fix the belt/install your VTEC wiring I would ignore the codes. The car is not completed yet so you will have codes/issues until it is finished.
'96-'02 cars have non adjustable timing. If you were to put a timing light on it, you would most likely see the timing jump around wildly as the belt tightens and slackens from the loose fit. It would be a pointless exercise, unless you are interested in watching the goofy timing.
Most likely when the engine is below a given temp it is running directly off pre-programmed tables in the ECM. When the engine warms up the ECM tries to refine the timing/fuel inputs by monitoring the sensors. With the fluctuating cam/spark timing it is trying to make the engine run, but the ECM does not 'know' the timing is goofed and will try to correct the engine performance, but can't due to the unpredictable running the slacked timing belt causes.

Dieskyver

"It would be a pointless exercise, unless you are interested in watching the goofy timing."
I gotta stay away from the write ups that end every step with "have another beer and think about it some more"
Yeah. I thought the p0135 $80 upstream O2 was the problem cuz I read the ecu ran in an "open loop" (iirc) til exhaust gasses/coolant reached temp. Then there was the P0122 wire i musta cut will installing the clutch master cyl. Didnt even consider how gnarly a loose timing belt could screw with the crank/tdc gizmos. Where does harmony meet melody, awareness overtake consciousness, rainbows hit gold and mechanics become electricians? Sometimes it's good to be alive.

MAD_MIKE

Mr_Random

I know, old dead thread, but! I was recently having exactly the issue discussed by OP after replacing the timing belt. I don't think his actual problem was resolved, but regardless I just figured it out; when installing the timing tensioner assembly, there is a small circular tab opposite to the bolt and spring. That hole MUST be seated on a small dowel sticking out of the engine, or the tensioner will not tension at all. This small dowel is never mentioned in any guide I have found, but would totally be obvious if it weren't for the front of the engine being obscured by the fender.

Re assembling as soon as I get my day started, will confirm results soon.