92cb7sk8er

Hey guys,
Ive been trying to get this car running for well over a month now and Im out of ideas.
One day I went out the car started then it dyed, wouldnt start unless you pump the gas even then it would idle. So I looked into the Hayns book and it said to use a jumper wire to get the check engine light to "flash."
I thought it would work the same as my OBD-I cars so I used a paper clip.
Well the OBD-II plug sparked a bit then the CEL went out and will not come back on. "even when you turn the key to the on position" Well I couldnt hear the fuel pump so I replaced it. Still dont hear it click but it smells like it flooding. My dad said it might not be getting spark so I checked the coil and it tested just fine.
I then thought maybe I messed up the main relay but replaced it also replaced the ECU.
I looked at all the fuses but they all look fine as well... Im so loss with this car idk where to go next....
thanks for the help guys

Lost Again

What is the green key light doing?

If you replaced the ecu - pcm and didn't do anything with the immobilizer system????

Instead of replacing the main relay - test the inputs to it.

92cb7sk8er

I just went out to look at the "key light" and its no longer comming on.. Idk what the would mean? Also no I have no information on the cars immobilizer? I didnt know that it had one. Also would I just use a test light to go about testing the inputs to it?

holmesnmanny

dont just assume the fuses ate fine ... test em its really easy using multimeterbin audible mode ... in particular the 15a ecu fuse and 7.5a ecu fuse

VeeSykkz

you shorted something out dude. You cannot jumper an OBD2 car like that. You need a proper reader. Start with fuses and relays.

92cb7sk8er

QUOTE=holmesnmanny;49514633]dont just assume the fuses ate fine ... test em its really easy using multimeterbin audible mode ... in particular the 15a ecu fuse and 7.5a ecu fuse[/QUOTE]

I did test them all one at a time all of them came back fine

92cb7sk8er

I thought the same thing but according to the Hayens manual you can with this model? I don't know but its the last time I will probably use on of them pos books... I did pick up the reader but now it wont connect so Im fed there... But any idea what I may have damaged? I did test all of the fuses with an ohms reader the all tested fine... I also tested the obd 2 plug and only two of the wires are getting power.. I also then test the main realy and only the ignition is getting power.. Im not really sure what any of the means? If anyone could help me out with any of this it would be great... Thanks man

Lost Again

You have more than one post "floating" around about the same issue. In one of those I posted a pic of the plug and ask which pins you jumped, never saw an answer.

Now in this thread I ask and state that the key has to be programed to the PCM, so at the very least, the car will not start because the PCM and key don't "know each other". Not saying there is not other issues but before the "two talk" you are not going to even begin to solve those others.

So at this point. IMHO, put the original PCM back in the car. Answer the questions asked, here and your other thread. Lets see what we can figure out by testing and not guessing.

Yes, you can jump the OBD-II port to get codes but if you get the wrong pins, things can go bad quickly.

If memory serves me right. There is/was an e-barke override to get around (temp solution) to the immobilizer system on these.....but that will usually only work with the OE PCM as the VIN from the doner PCM is different....thus the override code belongs to the OE car not the one you have the new PCM in now. Any chance of getting the VIN from the car the new PCM came from?

STL Honda

Check the MAP sensor to see if it's bottomed out. Spout on the bottom touching the intake causing it to not read correctly. I had this problem just once way back in the day at St.Louis Honda. Hope this helps

92cb7sk8er

Ok guys I got it towed and had a chance to put it inside out of the cold and was able to sit down with it and take my time... Turns out it was just a 10A fuse.. We started pulling and checking one at a time and found one that was bad replaced it and it started but it still wont idle... But for the most part we are moving forward.. thanks for all the help guys!

92cb7sk8er

One post was about the main relay I wanted to know what should all be getting power with the key in the "on" position then this post if there is another one I must have forgot about it so sorry to offend you I guess? And I jumped 8 and 13 as stated in the Haynes. Also yes I do have the vin from the doner car..

92cb7sk8er

Ok now that we have it started maybe you guys could help me out with the rest of it... The car will now start but it wont idle at all... there are no CEL codes and yes the CEL does work... we have checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found anything "yet." this is where all the problems started, when I went out to start the car one morning and it dyed.. Any ideas guys? Thanks for any help..

ph1l1pp3

gaz pump.