dasjestyr@gmail.com

New problem, great. The car starts up fine, runs fine, nothing weird... then randomly at stop lights, the tach will bounce once or twice between 100 and 800 rpm then die. When this happens, it will not start up right away but will eventually and then run fine-- until it randomly dies at a stop light again. Ive read this isnt an uncommon issue with this car but can be fixed but i never read why. Is this a faulty fuel pump relay? Clogged injectors or bad gas? Its getting really annoying, embarrassing and holds up traffic.

Artunique128

well atleast its at stop lights. It used to happen to my 94 accord on the highway...AT NIGHT!!!! I would be strollin down at 70 MPH then all of a sudden lights flicker RPMS flicker and car dies n starts to roll. All I had to do was buy new ground leads and tighten up the ground points. Check to see if your leads are all tight in all the points and if they need to be cleaned. Will be easier and cheaper than replacing pumps n relays.

P_Adams

I would suggest cleaning both the Throttle Plate / Body and the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Gunk (for the want of a better word) from the PCV system often varnishes and builds up in those locations effecting idle, causing stalls.
There is a thread in the FAQ section which covers this proceedure.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1844067

I hope this helps

P

tpot90

You should ensure that the battery cables are tightened down all the way. My second guess would be the Main Relay, which is an easy fix. Does this happen more in certain temperatures? Main relays generally act up in hot weather because the solders are heated and start to expand away from the connection.

turismo128

I had similar problems with my 98 accord, it would turn off while driving. I had the car turn off on me while driving on the highway. This is due to a faulty ignition switch. All you need is a new ignition switch, which is about $30 from Honda. You can test to see if it's the ignition switch is to wiggle the key when the car is on, if it turns off, then it's the ignition switch that is going bad.

P_Adams

Another avenue of interest would be a dirty / sticking EGR Valve. If it should remain open as the engine returned to idle, the engine could stall.

When this happens, does it shut off like someone flipped a switch, or is it more like it just fades away?

P

dasjestyr@gmail.com

It'll be running fine and then it'll just kaput, dead. Im inclined to think its EGR related as i have had a code for it for a while now. I had the port rodded out, but theres some gunk too deep and close to the vitals for me to wanna drill out.

The car does randomly not wanna start in hot weather and ive been told it is that main relay. I just dont know where it is to look at it or play with it when its one of those non starting days.

Is it more likely that i'll need to change the egr valve or have honda drill out the crap thats deep in the port?

P_Adams

When you get around to it, the Main Relay is located just forward of (and at the same level as) the interior fuse box. Refer Item #10

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgr y2=1998&catcgry3=2DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=CO NTROL+UNIT+%28CABIN%29

P

ididdy

Exactly what P Adams said, that is my first guess. The main relay will work until it gets hot and the cracked solder points get even weaker. Very common problem in 4th gen preludes and your car probably has the same main relay. You can take it out and solder it yourself if you are cheap like me or you can buy a new one.

I don't know if there is a DIY on this here but here you go, its about the same for all hondas. http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/do...relay-fix.html

tpot90

Unless you have experienced soldering skills and a solder iron, dont be cheap. You can get OEM ones, but aftermarket ones work just as well for a ton cheaper.

dasjestyr@gmail.com

Ok, so i changed the EGR valve, it cleared the code, but the stalling at stoplights thing is still happening. I will attack main relay next. Question though, if this was the main relay, wouldn't it stall on the road too? It hasn't stalled on the move at all.

ididdy

It would stall anywhere as long as had heated up. So you are saying it only does it when stopped? That cancels out that main relay idea.

dasjestyr@gmail.com

Yeah only does it while stopped. It may be a coincedence, but i haven't noticed any problems while it was in park either. After changing the valve, i sat in the parking space in park and let it run for a while and watched the tach, all was good. Then i put it in drive and held the brake and watched it. After about a minute the rpms dropped really low for a second then back up to normal. Every so often it would do this again, didnt stall tho. So i went for a drive and the very first stop light i came to, it seems fine then it dropped really low, hopped around a little then died. When i went to start it back up it would turn over and start really rough, gurgle out and die again. If i revved it immediately after it started, it caught and started up quick enough for me to get back on the road. Then it ran fine for a while... then the cycle repeats. Sometimes it wont start at all but it always turns over.

P_Adams

It's acting almost like the Idle Air Control Motor (Valve) is slugish and slow to respond to inputs. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? A spray can of carb cleaner is handy for this. (RPM will rise when you find one)

dasjestyr@gmail.com

as in the throttle body? where exactly should i spray lookin for leaks?

P_Adams

Anywhere there is a vacuum hose or a vacuum driven component. I use a shop rag that confines the spray to the area I'm looking at. What will happen is that should you find a leak, the RPM will flare sinse the vacuum will draw the carb cleaner in and it will burn as fuel.
This, of course, will not locate internal vacuum leaks which are not directly exposed to atmosphere.
I've found such things as split hoses, bad gaskets and even one cracked housing this way.

P

dasjestyr@gmail.com

ok NOW its stalling on the move! guess its time to try replacing that damn relay eh? it'll stall. then when trying to restart, it'll turn over but just wont start. then when it does start eventually, it starts right up llike nothing was wrong

YeuEmMaiMai

is the transmission in proper working order........a sticky TQ converter clutch will cause your engine to die when the car comes to a stop.........

dasjestyr@gmail.com

for all intensive purposes, yea its in working order. but it is starting to slip a little going from first into neutral (automatic). it doesnt stall coming to a stop, it stalls randomly WHILE your stopped; but that wouldnt account for the stalling on the move tho would it?

dasjestyr@gmail.com

good ****... >=\

so i replaced the main relay and the ignition switch. i had the egr port upgrade done, where honda puts in that steel tube to improve flow and reduce buildup which i ve been meaning to do for a while. the code is gone. the car hasn't stalled since, HOWEVER a new problem came about.

now the car is surging. everything will be fine and then as youre on the go, you'll lose acceleration then ZOOM you get it back, then its gone, you hold the pedal exactly where it is and the rpms drop... then bam you start accelerating again. the honda tech is a bit baffled too. theres no grind or thump in between to suspect the transmission is slipping. gonna take it back tomorrow and have them troubleshoot some more. im running out of money though argh

dasjestyr@gmail.com

drove it back to honda today and it didnt surge or stall at all for the whole 6 miles. last night after the maintenance they did, they also power steamed the engine and undercarriage. we suspect something just got wet and dried overnight. drove around town for about an hour, no problems. seems to be fixed! annnd the light stopped coming on every so many miles for the egr inefficiency, so it would seem the tube kit fixed that too.

thanks for your help guys

vchandna

OK, thanks everyone for the help. I had exact same problem with my Honda Accord 98 LX 4 engine. I changed ignition switch and the problem appeared to have gone away.

I also had ground leads checked though they were in sound condition.
Here is the description of exact description of ground lead as provided by Artunique128-

"the one connecting directly from the battery to a ground point beneath the car, above the cross member. sometimes it gets corroded and the wire gets really bad depending on where you live. i went to autozone n got the whole set for $12 I think 18 inches shuld be enough i got a 25 inch and it had too much slack. there is also a wire that comes out of the ground wire and grounds itself onto the radiator support check that one too."

The problem was initially rare but then started happening more frequently. Even at 70 mph. Later restart was more troublesome. While I tried things like idle speed, spark plug and premium gas one technique I learnt was that when engine died was not to panic and press on accelrator. Engine would somehow startup back again. I also started using reserve key which was not as much used.

I also found during ignition switch change that transmission fluid level was very low, so had one bottle put.

The original owner said that he had ignition switch changed at dealer after the recall notice.

Duralast Ignition switch cost me $65 and labor $100. Probably labor was on higher side.

Tires plus was upset when I told them my diagnosis of problem and asked them quote to change ignition switch. They don't like customers doing diagnosis. So they flatly told me that they don't do igntion switch change. Another mehcanic questioned me on my puspose and asked how can ignition switch cause the car to stop.

Anyway this forum is great. I have been talking to my friends that auto and home repair needs to be taught in the school to all.
Thanks,
Vikram

dasjestyr@gmail.com

go back and call that guy a noob