antwon619

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=1#post3045757

help :/

antwon619

anyway to bypass the crank position sensor on a 96 f22b1?
specs:
92 accord
f22a6 engine harness
pt6 ecu
swapped f22b1 obd2

is there anyway to bypass the cps or anything so i can recover my spark and finally start my cb7? HELP!!!1

holmesnmanny

specs:
92 ex
5 speed
f22a6 po6 ecu
f22b1 vtec long block
stock f22a6 harness.

The P06 is a Honda Civic DX ecu. Why would you be using that with your car ?

holmesnmanny

First, get an obd1 f22b1 ecu. Then you need to get an obd1 distributor for a f22b1, and add vtec solenoid and vtec pressure switch connectors and wires to the ecu connectors you already have. Don't worry about the crank sensor already on that motor, it will not be used as you will using the one from the obd1 distributor.

holmesnmanny

You will also need to swap ecu pins A6 and A1.

antwon619

my bad i meant pt6.
so it does have to be a vtec dizzy?
this will all solve my no spark issue?

and thanks in advance for the help!!!

holmesnmanny

It's prolly looking for crank sensor input. The crank sensor is in the distributor for obd1 cars. You need to use the correct distributor for your engine not the car and the ecu is even more important.

antwon619

ok so heres what im doing tomorrow.
getting a;
94 ex f22b1 obd1 vtec ecu 5speed
obd1 vtec dizzy

hopefully this will correct all the issues with this 96 block.
i just want to crack vtec already!!!!!!!!

thanks for your help holmesnmanny ill keep you posted once i get everything in!

holmesnmanny

Don't forget, you need to run those vtec wires. That ecu will run in limp mode if those wires aren't ran from the vtec connectors to the ecu connectors. And you also need to swap A6 and A1 pins.

holmesnmanny

Here's a few more things off the top of my head. Your engine harness uses IAB's so that connector will just be hanging. Just tie it somewhere out of the way. You can use your A6 egr valve on that engine. Just swap it over.

antwon619

already got the IAB's and EGR valve out of the way!
as for the vtec i can just run a regular cable (of course spliced or soldered) straight to the ecu vtec pin right?
ima do a quick search for the pin outs as to which is the vtec switch.

holmesnmanny

regular 16 gauge wire will work, yes...I cut a water temperature sensor connector off an accord to use for my vtec pressure switch that went bad that I bought as a kit from someone on ebay(the wire pulled out of the connector he sold me). Off the top of my head I can't remember what kind of connector the solenoid uses, but if you can just match it up with something just grab it. You will need a ecu pin. You can source this from a junkyard by cutting the ecu connector off another car.

You can also get this kit from someone on ebay. You can do a search for someone named axidworks on the internet too.

antwon619

i got the ecu, do i really need the dizzy though?

GhostAccord

Yes you need the distributor!

Oh and not to dash your hopes... but the F22B1 does not "Crack VTEC" the F22B1 VTEC is for economy not performance!


Oh and one more thing, you are supposed to swap ECU pins A6 & A11 (Not A1)

antwon619

yeah i already figured it wouldnt after all my research >_<
And do i wire the vtec up to d6?
94-95 Accord ECU

Pin - Description - Wire Colour

A1 - INJ1 - BRN
A2 - INJ4 - YEL
A3 - INJ2 - RED
A4 - VTEC SOL - GRN/YEL
A5 - INJ3 - BLU
A6 - O2 Heater ORG/BLK
A7 - Fuel Pump Relay - GRN/BLK
A8 - EMPTY
A9 - IACV - BLK/BLU
A10 - Engine Mount Control - GRN/WHT
A11 - EGR SOL - RED
A12 - Rad Fan Control - GRN
A13 - MIL - LTGRN/RED
A14 - Fuel Injection Air Control - WHT/YEL
A15 - AC Control - RED/BLU
A16 - ALT Control - WHT/GRN
A17 - EMPTY
A18 - FAS - BRN/WHT (TCM)
A19 - IAR Control SOL - ORG/GRN
A20 - PCS - RED/YEL
A21 - ICM1 - YEL/GRN
A22 - EMPTY
A23 - Power Ground 1 - BLK
A24 - Power Ground 2 - BLK
A25 - IGP1 (Power Source) - YEL/BLK
A26 - LG1 (Logic Ground) - BRN/BLK

B1 - IGP2 (Power Source) - YEL/BLK
B2 - LG2 (Logic Ground) - BRN/BLK
B3 - AFS A - WHT RED (TCM)
B4 - AFS B - GRN (TCM)
B5 - AC Pres Switch - RED/WHT
B6 - EMPTY
B7 - AT Gear Pos - lightLTGRN
B8 - Power Steering Pres Sw - GRN
B9 - STS - BLU RED (or BLK/GRN)
B10 - VSS - ORG
B11 - CYP Signal - ORG
B12 - CYP Ground - WHT
B13 - TDC Signal - ORG BLU
B14 - TDC Ground - WHT BLU
B15 - CKP Signal - BLU GRN
B16 - CKP Ground - BLU YEL

D1 - Voltage Back Up - WHT YEL
D2 - Brake Switch - GRN/WHT
D3 - EMPTY
D4 - SCS - RED
D5 - BARO OUT - BLU/WHT
D6 - VTEC Pres Switch - BLU/BLK
D7 - TXD/RXD - lightLTGRN RED
D8 - EMPTY
D9 - ALT FR Signal - WHT RED
D10 - EL (ELD) - GRN RED
D11 - TPS - RED/BLK
D12 - EGR Lift Sensor - WHT/BLK
D13 - ECT - RED/WHT
D14 - O2 Signal - WHT RED
D15 - IAT - RED YEL
D16 - EMPTY
D17 - MAP - WHT YEL
D18 - VREF - lightLTGRN/BLK
D19 - VCC1 (Provides Sensor Voltage) - YEL/WHT
D20 - VCC2 (Provides Sensor Voltage) - YEL BLU
D21 - SG1 (Sensor Ground) - GRN/WHT
D22 - SG2 (Sensor Ground) - GRN BLU

GhostAccord

If you have a 94-95 ECU you will need to find a 94-95 VTEC solenoid & pressure switch as well. Or you could try and do the VTEC Pressure switch hack that the Civic/LSV guys do. Because the OBD2 F22B1 does not use a VTEC pressure switch. It only has the VTEC solenoid connector.

antwon619

Ok i need to bypass it, BUT there is no d6 pin on my a6 harness. Im just going to add a pin
Can i use a 90-93 dizzy if its internal? I can get my hands on 94 its just gonna take sometime but i can get a 90-93 dizzy now

antwon619

ive been told by plenty in the past from cb7tuner that i can use my a6 dizzy, true false?
also is there anyway to rewire the obd2 dizzy to my a6 harness?

GhostAccord

If the guys over at CB7 have been running A6 distributors on OBD2 VTEC F22's then I would have to say you can do it. They are the ones with the most information about your chassis. They are a pretty knowledgeable bunch over there.

As far as wiring up the OBD2 distributor to the A6 harness. You need to remember that the OBD2 distributor doesn't have 2 of the 3 sensors that the A6 distributor uses. The CLP & TDC sensors are located down on the oil pump housing on the OBD2 engines. Therefore you would ether have to extend the 4 wires from the A6 harness down to the crank. Or run an OBD1 distributor.

antwon619

ima post a video of me tryna start my car so you can get a visual an sound as to what im going threw.
also getting the proper ecu i have now regained spark!
still throwing code 6: water temperature sensor and 10: IAT, cleared up code 21: vtec malfunction. this is what im going by not sure if i should get the codes for the 94-95 though.. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/check-engine-light-codes-cel-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtc-malfunction-indicator-light-mil-1490107/ on this the codes are diff, 6- P0117 ECT Circuit Low Input, 10- P0111 IAT Sensor Circuit Range/Performance, P0112 IAT Sensor Circuit Low Input, P0113 IAT Sensor Circuit High Input.

antwon619

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjkO4...ature=youtu.be
poor quality sorry... it really wants to go!