Speedfiend97LX

I know this has been covered a thousand times but I've searched for days and have tried just about every solution I've come across. So I figured it's time to make a post. Here's a little background on the car/motor. It's an obd1 H22 in a 97 Accord. Had the head built, S2 cams/valvetrain and all the normal stuff. The block is bone stock and I did away with A/C. Motor runs and idles decent on stock P13 but still needs tuned. My radiator fan won't come on for nothing. Replaced thermostat with OEM, ECT sensors A & B with OEM parts, both sensors below distributor with aftermarket parts, radiator cap, radiator hoses and all heater hoses. The only thing I didn't replace is the radiator but it worked fine before. I tested the relay and both sensors with a paperclip, fan comes on fine. I'll let the car idle for about 15 minutes and the gauge only goes up a 1/4 of the way. When the motor was in my CB7 it always ran 1/2 way on the gauge. The weird thing is that the motor and the top hose get really hot and I mean really hot. To the point where I'm afraid I'm going to warp the head so I shut it off. The bottom hose gets warm around the thermostat but it's cool around the middle of the hose to the bottom of the radiator. I replaced the fluid with 1/2 water and 1/2 antifreeze. I also bled it properly with the cap off, bleeder open and heater valve open. If I open the bleeder when the car is running nothing comes out. Is this normal? Do I need to bleed the system more? Any ideas what my problem could be? Thanks in advance for any info.

holmesnmanny

If you open the bleeder when the car is running coolant should stream out. If it doesn't then something is wrong.

However, try this. Drain the coolant. Turn the heater control **** inside the car all the way to solid red(opposite of blue). Then take the thermostat out. Cut off the jiggle valve from the thermostat. Install it with the hole where the jiggle valve was facing the sky. Put the thermostat back in. Open the bleeder valve. Refill the system with coolant. When it starts to stream out of the bleeder valve with no air bubbles close the valve. Continue filling coolant until the radiator is full. Start the car with the cap off. Refill as necessary. The higher radiator hose will get hot. That's completely normal as it's closest to the engine. The lower hose will only get hot after the thermostat has opened.

Keep in mind, the fan will only come on if it's needed. It doesn't just run because the engine is running. If it appears to only be going 1/4 or 1/3 all the way up the fan probably isn't going to come on. You can try holding the revs at 2500 rpms until either the fan comes on or it gets to halfway. If it gets to halfway and the fan doesn't come on, then there is something wrong.

Speedfiend97LX

Thanks for the info and help. The way you are describing to fill the coolant and place the thermostat is exactly how I did it the first time. I have the jiggle valve facing up like it should be and I had the heater on red with the heater hose valve fully open. What is the reason for cutting off the jiggle valve? I feel like there is a pretty big air pocket in the system somewhere and thats why, when the car is running, there isn't coolant coming out of the bleeder. My idle is fluctuating quite a bit and the coolant will come out in small bits when the idle is at the high point. But it should be coming out solid no problem since I already bled it. It just seems like the motor gets incredibly hotter than normal. The top hose will get hotter first but its really hot. I can barely touch the valve cover. Plus as hot as that hose is, then my fan should atleast be coming on when I turn the car off bc of the ECT B sesnor. Also when I open the bleeder and nothing comes out it seems to fill the resevoir with coolant. I had the resevoir filled about half way and after I open the bleeder, the resevoir was almost full with coolant and I hadn't added any.

Lost Again

That is a heck of an air posket.

Not good with the H motors but on the F's there should be coolant coming out of the bleeder when the car is on and full.

Have you tested the coolong system to see if it is holding pressure, also some of those testers will test the cap to be sure it is working.

Speedfiend97LX

It appears that the coolant is not flowing anywhere. I ran the motor with the cap off and the coolant just sat there. The water pump and thermostat are brand new oem parts and I have lots of heat so I don't think it's my heater core. I ran it for about 15 mins and it started to overheat. So I shut it off and jacked up the front. I figure I'm going to leave it like that until tomorrow. Hopefully that'll get some of the air out if thats the problem.

chikin pickle

Check out your radiator. Try pulling it out of the car and backflushing it. It's most likely plugged up with crap.

Speedfiend97LX

Yeah I'm gonna check the radiator next. I mean it worked fine in CB7 no problems but it did sit in my dusty garage for like two years. I just dont see how it could be completely clogged from just sitting. I dont know. I'm out of ideas.

Speedfiend97LX

Any one else?

holmesnmanny

When filling up with coolant, the jiggle valve will sometimes in my experience push closed and not allow air to pass by. Just cut it off, it's not going to hurt anything and I do that will my hondas and toyotas now. You want the air to pass through so that the coolant will make it to the thermostat to open it and then after opened the hot coolant will hit the fan switch turning on the fan.

Also, I would try putting in another bleeder valve. It might be corroded shut.

I believe the heater is a bypass as water goes through the pipe through the thermostat housing. That's why it has to be open by having the temperature control **** turned all the way to full red in the car. Your radiator could indeed be blocked. But perhaps you haven't got the thermostat to open yet? If not, coolant won't be able to flow.

Speedfiend97LX

I pulled the radiator bc the coolant wasn't flowing at all. Flushed it out but I didnt see anything that came out of it. Water flowed through it fine. So I don't think its the radiator. My bleeder isnt plugged either. I pulled it out and checked it while I had the radiator out. Is it possible I got a bad oem water pump or oem thermostat? I'm going to re-install everything and try it again but I had the heater valve open the first time so I know that wasn't the problem.

Speedfiend97LX

Tested my oem thermostat and it isnt opening until about 185-190 so I'm thinking thats my problem. I'm going to run the car without the thermostat and see it the coolant flows then.

nus_dogg

Now, you sure both lower and upper radiator hoses isn't restricted?

Speedfiend97LX

Nope they are also brand new and werent kinked at all. I ran the motor without the t-stat tonight and everything flowed great. So I'm going to take the oem t-stat back and get another one.

xlankan

did you solve it??