MAD_MIKE

If you are pulling gunk off the plug then the pan then the sump pickup is probably covered in it, or sucking it up and plugging it. Then the trans can no longer operate.

Have you used a hydraulic cleaner to try and break up the slurry?
It might work, but if the trans has more than 200K on it, I would start looking for another transmission, check the japanese low mileage import market.

GoodUsername

I would have to dig through some stuff to research exactly what are the inner workings of the 5th gen automatics but I heard they don't use planetarys yet there are clutches inside? Anyway, I had a 94 Accord that had slipping shifts and just would act up fairly bad, no where near what your describing but I gotta say, there is only so much diagnosing you can do from the outside and so far, everything has checked out. If you have a trans that is acting up this bad and there weren't codes, it's likely clutches or other internal components. My dad decided to have ours rebuilt by a reputable shop for get this...$3k HAHA yeah idk if it was the best move financially but it certainly solved the problem. My point is, either get the parts, a manual and get ready for some serious time rebuilding it or don't and get another reman unit or used unit.

capezig

madmike...yes this issue is still going, but now I have a deadline...the little one needs a car for school this year. I just took delivery of a JDM F22B transmission, and hope to start the swap tomorrow morning...any words of wisdom would be appreciated!

MAD_MIKE

If the transmission is not from an Accord it may have some brackets that are different to hold sensors/throttle valve cable. etc.
Pull the Accord trans out, and compare the 'new' trans to it. Verify the Torque Converters are the same diameter otherwise you will need to change out your drive(flex)plate.

And go over this to see what you will need to do for the swap.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-.../#post44916843

capezig

Mike, again many many thanks...the reference to your description of transmission removal is awesome. I have gotten started with a Haynes manual, but having pored over the book for too long, your write up makes more sense than theirs. I have noticed already that the bracket for the radiator hose and throttle cable is a little different maybe...is it true that the shift and lock up solenoids that arrive on a JDM engine should be swapped with the ones on the original transmission? It's definitely an F22B, so fingers crossed on properly mating up...

MAD_MIKE

Barcode sticker on the front of the trans will have a four letter code telling you what the original application is.

Solenoids I have not noticed having a different connector on 90-97s. I believe this is a 98-02 issue. But check anyway, solenoids should be the same.

capezig

Mike, my honda guru...Well, amazingly, the 'new' transmission is in place, and the undercar parts are going back together as time permits. One problem so far, the shift cable cover did not come on the new transmission, and the one from my old one does not fit. My original transmission has a deeper hollow in the casing and a shallow depression in the cover at the point that holds the shift cable sleeve. The new transmission has a shallower depression in the casing so there is not enough depression in the old cover to clamp it in place. The barcode sticker on the new one is MP6A-1003041...could this be a difference between an F22B1 and an F22B2?

MAD_MIKE

MP6A is from a 4th gen Prelude.
24901-PT0-902 is the Prelude cover
24901-P0A-000 is the Accord cover.
If you can find a 'bullnose' 92-96 Prelude in the yarde snag the cover. Or check 90-93 Accords as well.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking that the MP1A was the Prelude auto. What is the difference between it and the MP6A? Gear ratios?

capezig

Mike, many thanks are in order...could not have gotten this car back together without you. The JDM transmission was about $425 delivered. The little shift cable cover plate was $6.75 at my local Pick and Pull. Unfortunately, the car had sat so long outside unused, it had pitted up the rotors and got new front rotors before I felt comfortable letting the little one use it. Much of the rubber has been changed in the front end while we were in there. A new front motor mount will be going in shortly. Then we will start on the cosmetic do da's. My wife teases me that it will be a new car soon...tease on...success! Thank You!

MAD_MIKE

Usually that is the big difference.
MP1A is from a F22 Prelude, similar gear ratios as the 90-93 Accord.
MP6A is from an H23 Prelude, lower gear ratios 2-4 with a 4.428 FD heard claims of LSD, but have no idea.
MPHA is from an H22 VTEC Prelude, has conservative ratios, with a 4.785 FD, .653 4th gives a 3.17 in OD.
MPJA is from an F22 Odyssey I suspect it is similar to the MP6A, but have yet to find an Ody FSM to look up the gear ratios.

Not bad. Well done.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

Also it seems that there are different ratios for the MP1A trans depending on whether it came from a Prelude with an F22A6 or one with a H23A1 motor. I guess there is no way to tell until you take the trans apart.

Fdew

Hi there MM, have been looking through your advice with this problem. I have the D4 Code 15 and found from your list its different from the usual codes in the manual- the D4 code 15 is NM NC sensors.
Wondering, are they called anything else? When I ask suppliers about them, nobody knows what I'm talking about, try to sell me the VSS sensor instead.

Still trying to located said NM NC sensors, will have another crack at that, and any other things you could recommend I try for solving the code D4 15?


(Its also throwing D4 15, bad ECU, have already removed that, taken off the cover and found a slightly burnt out area on the board, so guessing that replacement ECU should be fine for solving that particular code D4 14..)

I have a 94 Vti Accord sedan... 2.2 I think.

Many thanks,
Fdew

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

I think this is what you are looking for? Both have been discontinued by Honda.

Pick-Up Assembly, Main (Shindengen)28810-P0X-005
Pick-Up Assembly, Main (Hadsys)28810-P0X-003

MAD_MIKE

Not sure what other sources you are looking at, FSM has the codes listed and the CEL checklist in the FAQ I have those codes listed from the FSM.
They may be called 'shaft speed sensors' as the NM is the Main shaft speed sensor, and the NC is the Counter shaft speed sensor.
If the sensors(magnetic pickups) are covered in ferrous material the signal degrades and the TCU is not able to properly shift, usually erratic, rough or crunching occurs. Honda ATs are more like constant mesh MTs.
Locate them as in, locate them on the car?
Scroll up to post #4, I have a diagram posted on the sensor locations on the right side cover, which is the right side cover behind the right wheel.
Just go through the above posts and follow those directions on removal/cleaning.
14 is the FAS wire which is the communications wire between ECU and TCU. Without that com line the TCU will not have TPS or Thermo, coil, and possibly Baro info from the ECU. Which all affect **** quality.
Check the wire, pins and connectors for damage, corrosion and loose connections.

Fdew

That's very helpful, I'll be following that diagram and checking carefully.

The codes were from the D4 light, rather than the engine light (CEL), so point to different issues according (no pun intended) to what I've researched in some threads here. Is that right?

Here's the thread I got the D4 light codes from, I think its Mad Mike who had the D4 codes. I'm confused about half the time I look at this, the other half the time I just drink wine and hope I'll understand better tomorrow......

I got a 14 and 15 from the D4. That's a definite.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-15-a-3185286/

MAD_MIKE

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post49833432

That will be the correct link for AT trans codes.