SAPierce2006

This just started doing this the other day. It runs very rough. When idling, the RPM's are below 500, the car almost dies. When the car is accelerating, it accelerates forward, and then for an amount of time which seems equal to the amount of time the car accelerates, the car does not accelerate. The result of this is an uncomfortable ride. This only happens when accelerating or idling. When the car is slowing down, then it is smooth and you can't feel any jerk. It almost feels like one of the cylinders doesn't fire, except that since the acceleration time and the time that it doesn't accelerate are equal. The car belongs to my girlfriend and I'm not quite sure where I should start on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

~SAPierce2006

P_Adams

It sounds like a cylinder stops contributing during loads. This is usually indicative of ignition problems (a Spark Plug is not functioning). It can be any of the following:
1) Spark Plug(s)
2) Spark Plug Wires
3) Distributor Cap & Rotor
or it can also be caused by a vacuum leak (listen for something hissing from the vicinity of the Intake manifold)

Does this happen only when it's cold or damp?
Porous Dist cap and/or Ignition wires can be affected by dampness, causing an easier path to ground than thru the Plugs.
Plugs can fail (short) from either a cracked porcelain insulator, baked on oil deposits from a valve cover seal leak or not being tight enough (overheats)

P

The_Todd

A full tune up wouldn't hurt at all.

I would change plugs, wires, dizzy, ignitor, clean the air filter and change the oil.

SAPierce2006

How much would replacing all of that cost? What is a "dizzy", and what do you mean by ignitor? My girlfriend is on a very tight $$ limit. Her car has always had a fairly rough idle, and I've always thought that she maybe had a vaccuum leak, but have not ever checked. Is there a way to narrow it down to exactly what the problem is without spending the $$ first??


Modified by SAPierce2006 at 1:15 PM 1/11/2006

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SAPierce2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much would replacing all of that cost? What is a "dizzy", and what do you mean by ignitor? My girlfriend is on a very tight $$ limit. Her car has always had a fairly rough idle, and I've always thought that she maybe had a vaccuum leak, but have not ever checked. Is there a way to narrow it down to exactly what the problem is without spending the $$ first??</TD></TR></TABLE>

dizzy =distributor

Usually that includes a new rotor and ignitor and cap but I would at least opt for a new cap and rotor.



# 3 is rotor and # 2 (top part/far right) is cap

Those shouldn't cost more than 20-30 bucks. It wouldn't hurt to check all hoses to ensure there isn't a vacuum leak but usually that would mean a bouncy idle.

There really isn't a solid way to diagnose a rough idle without ensuring that first the basic ignition parts are good. It's a very good start to say the least.

Honda-Master

any chk engine lite on?? if so ,read and post the code ,,if no lite,, try this.........start car up and let it idle, pull plug wires 1 at a time and see if when you pull a specific 1 there is no change in engine rpm,, if so, that means that , that particular cylinder is not firing.. as stated before by other people , chk the plugs ,,if worn replace and retry, if plugs are ok , chk plug wires,,, .it could also be a injector not working properly,,stick a screwdriver end to it and put the other end in your ear and listen for a steady clicking sound on all 4 of them ..if 1 is not clicking or faint clicking you got a bad injector or wiring going to it
It is definately not the ignitor ,,, Ignitor make car not to start I have never seen an ignitor cause a misfire ,,and do not replace the distributor ... as a matter of facts do not replace any parts untill you properly diagnose it ,,
also chk the pcv valve,,located on the valve cover , squeeze the hose and see if it helps..

P_Adams

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda-Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull plug wires 1 at a time and see if when you pull a specific 1 there is no change in engine rpm,, if so, that means that , that particular cylinder is not firing.. as stated before by other people , chk the plugs ,,if worn replace and retry, if plugs are ok , chk plug wires,,, .it could also be a injector not working properly,,stick a screwdriver end to it and put the other end in your ear and listen for a steady clicking sound on all 4 of them ..if 1 is not clicking or faint clicking you got a bad injector or wiring going to it
</TD></TR></TABLE>

One addendum to Honda-Master's suggestions. Prior to starting your diagnostic procedure pre-loosen the spark plug wires at the Distributor end.
Once you start pulling plug wires, do NOT pull them from the spark plug ends.
Two things will happen:
1) you'll damage the spark plug boots if you're not careful. and more importantly
2) Your body will find itself in the unenviable position of trying to route 40,000 volts as it establishes a ground from the ignition source to your feet.

Pull the wires from the distributor cap. You won't get bit that way.

There is a second method to testing the plug wires. Take a spritz bottle and spray them with water. If they're porous, the engine will start to ship.

P

SAPierce2006

you guys were dead on accurate. It was the #3 wire. Replaced all 4 wires for $30 bucks. Thank you all very much!

P_Adams

Thanks for the "That Fixed IT" Report.
It gives me (any I assume) and others warm fuzzies knowing we were able to help.

P_Adams

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SAPierce2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys were dead on accurate. It was the #3 wire. Replaced all 4 wires for $30 bucks. Thank you all very much!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad it was something easy

Honda-Master

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SAPierce2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys were dead on accurate. It was the #3 wire. Replaced all 4 wires for $30 bucks. Thank you all very much!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad you got it fixed , , now do yourself a favor ,,return those plug wires and install a set of factory honda plug wires..