WebDawg

Nice. I must have missed the posts on the DIY fix.

I suggest you change your email addy to something like blablabla -thisisthat@symbol- gmail.com .

You know? For spam purposes.

Dago84

Thanks for the post guys, I followed the instructions and changed the capacitors as advised. However, now when I go to start the car it keeps cranking and isn't turning over. The cars in neatural because the neutral safety switch is bad. That's next in line to be replaced. Any ideas on why it won't start? Not sure where these blue connectors are to get the trouble code?

Dago84

Bump anyone?

tommyNhisCivic

Ok so I have same problem sport light stays on. Jump the blue connector and it does nothing, light don't blink at all. Replaced the vss, shift selonoid, and had TCU rebuilt. Light is still on and car won't shift into overdrive. Any ideas?

justinsbg

Usually the TCU's give a lot of problems with these cars. I'm not a big fan of resistance testing but check the resistance in the shift solenoids. Specifications are 12-24 ohms for each solenoid.Drive the car for about 15 minutes then check the solenoid resistance. Sometimes the shift solenoid windings short and burn the TCU. I am a Honda/Acura service technician in North Carolina and I repair Transmission computers for 1990-1993 Accords. For $90.00 plus around $5.00 shipping I can repair yours and get it back to you with quick turn around time. Let me know if I can help.

girlhasa91honda

Recently bought this 91 Accord (automatic), ran fine on 1st day, after that I got the flashing "s" and noticed that after stopping at a light it starts hesitating to get past 10 mph, so what I've been doing (I think its bad) is putting it in the 1 gear to get it to accelerate then I shift to 2,d3 then d4 when I'm going like over 40mph (runs fine going even 80mph). That seems to work fine, but that S is super annoying. Now I have another problem, the dash brake light is almost always on even though I don't have the hand (emergency) brake on. Oh, one more thing the door ajar light is on, and the door is closed perfectly fine. I bought this car thinking that yeah it was cheap and pretty nice, and I thought it would be gas efficient, but no not so much, I work about 5 miles away plus I have to do alot of drop offs/ pick ups (kids from school) and I'm using like $10 a day - which is pretty much what I was using with my 03 Expedition. I'm looking at everyone talk about TCU, VSS, I'm confused.... Please help, I don't have a lot of money....

justinsbg

The TCU or Transmission Control Unit is the most likely cause for your shifting problems. Check your brake master cylinder under the hood for the brake fluid level, if it's low it will cause the brake light to illuminate. The most likely cause for the door ajar light is the door switch which is a little push button switch on the door jam. When door closes it pushes that switch in which then is supposed to turn the light off. If you need help with your TCU let me know. I work in NC and repair TCU's. Be aware of buying used TCU's, you may end up with the same problem.

hobbytech

Hi there, I fix a couple of problem like this, just go to pick n pull and buy a speed sensor, it will solved your problem... good luck..

fringledingle

I've got a 90 and the flashing s too. I just put in a VSS from pick n pull. Still flashing. Just bought a new one off ebay fro $20. I'll let you know.

hobbytech

What sensor they talking about?.... What I experienced to this kind of problem is the vehicle speed sensor (vss).... Go to pick n full cheaper... Good luck...

justinsbg

Reference my posts above about problematic TCU's (Transmission Control Unit), and shift solenoids It's a very common problem on 1990-1993 Accord automatic transmissions. I repair them in NC where I work as an automotive/electronics repair technician.

fringledingle

Unfortunately it's my daily driver. I can't afford to send the TCU off for who knows how long. Can I rip one out at pick n pull? will it work?

egsleepercivic

had this problem on a 93 ex, I was able to open the tcu to find the burnt parts before replacing got a new one on ebay for 80 shipped

this site is worth a read for anyone having this problem with 90-93
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html

fringledingle

thx..will try the reset as I don't really want to replace the tcu.

fringledingle

new speed sensor restored my speedometer however the light still mocks me and I have no cruise control. I'm stumpped

cardmarc

New member here. Have a 50,000 mile 1991 Accord driven by mother in law....S (sport light) stays on and shifting is very poor, no overdrive seems to work. Checked codes by jumpering blue connector-no codes, S light still on steady and CEL also comes on steady.
Since no codes to check, what is the next clear step? The TCU is original, and this car was purchased new, does not seem TCU is within the "improved" list of TCU retrofits....
So, where do I begin?

cardmarc

As a follow up to this, I took the TCU box out (what a pain in the kister), opened up the box and looked for the burned resistor and leaking cap....found them both, but I have a DIFFERENT leaking Nichocon capacitor than the one written up on the nice fix it website....at here..... http://people.consolidated.net/etrid...ordtcufix.html
The one I had leaking was 220uf 35 volt cap. Ordered 5 new caps and the one resistor for $2.39 from DigiKey. Postage costs more, another 2.50. Since I can solder ok I figure this is a $10 fix if it works. Will post later when I get the parts as to the results! Sounds promising.

egsleepercivic

here is a pic of the 93 ex tcu that I replaced, burnt stuff is circled

cardmarc

Hello, yes, that resistor (marked R41) was blown on mine, too. As well the capacitor just to the top of this resistor was blow out at the bottom. It is marked C28. The other capacitor that the fellow wrote about being blown in his TCU unit is marked C32. So I replaced all the above 3 components, plus capacitor C33 because it was close. I also bought two extra caps of the same sort I saw on the board but did not replace them. Cost a total of $5.00 with shipping!
I am happy to report that the fix was successful and that the Sport light is now out, and that the car shifts fine. Hoooray for all of us.

Now to fix my noisy left turning wheel bearing (or CV joint........?) How do I tell which is bad?

John Bennett

Last week I sold my 1991 Honda Accord. It had 212,000 miles. I hope it goes another 200,000.

That generation of Accords are awesome; well-built, durable, ride smooth, stone axe reliable. I would have kept that Accord, but I ran across a steal of a deal on a 2003 Honda Pilot 4x4 with 144,000 miles.

Everyone please work to keep these Hondas on the road FOREVER!

dida4g

Great thread this, I can look for an auto Accord now.

fringledingle

I've just had a successful brain transplant (switched the TCU). No more flashing lights, shifting awesome and it only took 20 minutes...and a couple swears. Well worth it.

myhighway66

I I have a 1991 Honda accord AT control unit on the motherboard what size capacitor goes on C28 and C33
i can replace them they are gone can you help me with the info Thanks!!!

WebDawg

I do not have the car anymore. Sorry :/

dimu4ever

Hello Sir, i have the same car and have a similar problem. Please how do i locate and jumper the 2 blue pin connector to get the code, and what do i do with the code to resolve the issue. You can also reach me at dimu4ever@yahoo.com

I live in Nigeria. Thanks