1990 Honda Accord CEL Code 1, 43 and S code 1, 2, 3, 7, and 8
01-20-2015, 01:58 PM
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1990 Honda Accord CEL Code 1, 43 and S code 1, 2, 3, 7, and 8
Hey Everyone, looking for some help with engine issue.
About a year ago, my Accord died in the middle of an intersection and wouldn't turn over, but power was still present. After some reading and testing, I replaced the guts of the distributor cap and it started up fine. Then it happened again roughly 3 months after that. Assuming I screwed up the distributor cap guts, I replaced the whole thing. Worked great again. Then it did it again about 5 months ago. On someone's suggestion, I just changed out the main relay and it has worked great until the middle of December 2014.
On my way home from vacation, at around 60 mph, the car suddenly started feeling like it was skipping or missing firings and bogging down. The CEL came on after about 10 minutes and then everything was fine for the rest of the trip home (no stopping). This continues to happen every time the car is started. I can go around 8 miles (enough to warm the car up) and then it starts with the bog down/sputter feeling with one or two backfires.
Taking my foot off the gas pedal will immediately stop the problem and I can usually go another mile before it happens again. 5 or 6 times of doing this though and the CEL will come on and then no problems.
This past weekend, after reading some things on here, I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor. I also checked the Engine Temp Gauge (good) and the Coolant Temp Gauge (good). None of that seems to have fixed the problem.
I pulled the CEL codes and got a Code 1 and Code 43. From anyone's experience, is this most likely related to the O2 sensor being faulty? There is around 300K miles on the car. New engine around 190K.
Also get codes from the S light of 1,2,3,7, and 8. But read that I should get the CEL codes taken care of first.
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!!!
About a year ago, my Accord died in the middle of an intersection and wouldn't turn over, but power was still present. After some reading and testing, I replaced the guts of the distributor cap and it started up fine. Then it happened again roughly 3 months after that. Assuming I screwed up the distributor cap guts, I replaced the whole thing. Worked great again. Then it did it again about 5 months ago. On someone's suggestion, I just changed out the main relay and it has worked great until the middle of December 2014.
On my way home from vacation, at around 60 mph, the car suddenly started feeling like it was skipping or missing firings and bogging down. The CEL came on after about 10 minutes and then everything was fine for the rest of the trip home (no stopping). This continues to happen every time the car is started. I can go around 8 miles (enough to warm the car up) and then it starts with the bog down/sputter feeling with one or two backfires.
Taking my foot off the gas pedal will immediately stop the problem and I can usually go another mile before it happens again. 5 or 6 times of doing this though and the CEL will come on and then no problems.
This past weekend, after reading some things on here, I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor. I also checked the Engine Temp Gauge (good) and the Coolant Temp Gauge (good). None of that seems to have fixed the problem.
I pulled the CEL codes and got a Code 1 and Code 43. From anyone's experience, is this most likely related to the O2 sensor being faulty? There is around 300K miles on the car. New engine around 190K.
Also get codes from the S light of 1,2,3,7, and 8. But read that I should get the CEL codes taken care of first.
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!!!
01-20-2015, 10:33 PM
#3
MM Gruppe B
Re: 1990 Honda Accord CEL Code 1, 43 and S code 1, 2, 3, 7, and 8
1. Solenoid Valve A Lockup Control
2. Solenoid Valve B Lockup Control
3. TPS*D4 may or may not light*
7. Solenoid Valve A Shift Control
8. Solenoid Valve B Shift Control
Backprobe TPS as it will cause significant engine and transmission issues, including stalling.
Check your battery connections are clean and tight.
Check your ground connections are clean and tight.
There is a main battery to chassis and transmission negative cable ground.
A bonding cable that runs across the engine mount. And the main 'G101' ground on the thermostat housing bolt..
Check that these are properly attached and not corroded or broken.
I suspect there is a wiring issue and not an actual problem with the transmission.
Locate the TCU, remove it and open the cover, look for a any burnt capacitors or resistors. Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.
2. Solenoid Valve B Lockup Control
3. TPS*D4 may or may not light*
7. Solenoid Valve A Shift Control
8. Solenoid Valve B Shift Control
Backprobe TPS as it will cause significant engine and transmission issues, including stalling.
Check your battery connections are clean and tight.
Check your ground connections are clean and tight.
There is a main battery to chassis and transmission negative cable ground.
A bonding cable that runs across the engine mount. And the main 'G101' ground on the thermostat housing bolt..
Check that these are properly attached and not corroded or broken.
I suspect there is a wiring issue and not an actual problem with the transmission.
Locate the TCU, remove it and open the cover, look for a any burnt capacitors or resistors. Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.
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