My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
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Re: My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
it actually doesn't.... the rear firewall is made from aluminum which seems to do a great job of getting rid of heat. I should have some time to put more pictures up in the next few days...
what do you guys think this would run with a GSR @ 20 psi?
Caleb
what do you guys think this would run with a GSR @ 20 psi?
Caleb
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Re: My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
props wish i had your brains. I have a 94 teg shell sitting. If i had better sources id give it a try. do u know of any one that breaks it down real good on the web.
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Re: My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
Ahahah as soon as I saw the thread title I knew who this was...
Anyways, PWR makes a good liquid-to-air intercooler: http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm
This guy is using it on his prelude setup: http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315971
I still havent seen this thing in person, I need to check it out one of these days!
Anyways, PWR makes a good liquid-to-air intercooler: http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm
This guy is using it on his prelude setup: http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315971
I still havent seen this thing in person, I need to check it out one of these days!
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My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
It seemed like this project was charging ahead until i got to the current step.
Measure
Cut
Test
Repeat.
because the suspension was locked in the position that it should (hopefully) be by the welded struts, it was a simple matter of getting the core support positioned so everything was straight. I wanted to leave as much of the thin sheet metal from the back of the crx intact as possible to help with closing all the gaps up. once I had it where I wanted it, I tack welded it in place, and put the car on the ground to check everything
I temporarily removed the struts completely to check the suspension travel.
once I had double, and triple checked everything was straight, I started fabricating 1/4" steel brackets to tie to all together. There are Two of the brackets shown that tie to the core support to the rear section that held the stock tow hooks. Working with a unibody car turned out to be difficult because there arent any outstandingly strong areas to weld to.
The front section of the core support was connected to the rest of the body with similar 12"x 3" plate steel brackets, as well as a large box assembly that welded, and bolted to the stock trailing arm center mounts.
I decided that the worst possible thing that could happen to this project was to have some sort of structural failure after it was all said and done, so all of the attachment points are probably much stronger than they have to be.
after i was satisfied that it wasn't going to move, the stock gas tank was zip tied it on top of the whole new rear suspension.... and took the car for a drive with the stock front motor.
other than the welded rear shocks (lol) the car drove straight enough to satisfy me, so i set to closing up all the sheet metal gaps in the wheel wells.
Measure
Cut
Test
Repeat.
because the suspension was locked in the position that it should (hopefully) be by the welded struts, it was a simple matter of getting the core support positioned so everything was straight. I wanted to leave as much of the thin sheet metal from the back of the crx intact as possible to help with closing all the gaps up. once I had it where I wanted it, I tack welded it in place, and put the car on the ground to check everything
I temporarily removed the struts completely to check the suspension travel.
once I had double, and triple checked everything was straight, I started fabricating 1/4" steel brackets to tie to all together. There are Two of the brackets shown that tie to the core support to the rear section that held the stock tow hooks. Working with a unibody car turned out to be difficult because there arent any outstandingly strong areas to weld to.
The front section of the core support was connected to the rest of the body with similar 12"x 3" plate steel brackets, as well as a large box assembly that welded, and bolted to the stock trailing arm center mounts.
I decided that the worst possible thing that could happen to this project was to have some sort of structural failure after it was all said and done, so all of the attachment points are probably much stronger than they have to be.
after i was satisfied that it wasn't going to move, the stock gas tank was zip tied it on top of the whole new rear suspension.... and took the car for a drive with the stock front motor.
other than the welded rear shocks (lol) the car drove straight enough to satisfy me, so i set to closing up all the sheet metal gaps in the wheel wells.
Last edited by zimsplat; 07-29-2009 at 07:15 PM.
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Re: My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
filling up all the small gaps with small pieces of 16 gauge steel turned out to be the most time consuming part of this project. every gap was a funky, concave shape and it took many hours to cut the pieces out and weld them in place.
the rear shock towers had to be completely re-done to accommodate for the upper control arms.
the rear shock towers had to be completely re-done to accommodate for the upper control arms.
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Re: My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
I forced myself to finish all of the gaps before I test fit the engine, because i knew I wouldn't want to go back to cutting and welding little pieces of metal after seeing the drive train in place. Overall, it took about a month of constant evening welding after work to close it all up.
the next major fabrication challenge was to build the transmission mounts. even know i had purchased a set of B series mounts for a civic, I planned on using a hydrolc transmission, which has a different tranny side mount.
I started by making a template for the bracket that would bolt to the transmission
the motor and tranny were then lowered into the car
I used the polyurethane mount from the kit, and cut it off at the correct length to mount to my transmission piece.
looks good, but will it handle 250 lbs of tq?
the next major fabrication challenge was to build the transmission mounts. even know i had purchased a set of B series mounts for a civic, I planned on using a hydrolc transmission, which has a different tranny side mount.
I started by making a template for the bracket that would bolt to the transmission
the motor and tranny were then lowered into the car
I used the polyurethane mount from the kit, and cut it off at the correct length to mount to my transmission piece.
looks good, but will it handle 250 lbs of tq?
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Re: My mid engine RWD turbo CRX
like a few others i am also interested in the shift linkage issue, and im guessing the gas tank ended up in the old engine bay
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Shift linkage
The idea for the shift linkage literally came to me in the middle of the night before I was ever serious about the project. If you are familiar with how the stock rod linkage works, you know that there are 2 parts to it; the stabilizer and the torque/push pull. if you think about it, it doesn't really matter what shape the rods are, as long as they are solid, and connect to the same place in the end.
the stabilizer is easy, its purpose is to float in order to accommodate the engine movement on launches etc. So as long as it somehow goes from its mounting point on the transmission, and ends up holding the shift lever ball joint, it should work fine.
The same goes for the pushpull/torque rod. the key to my design though is the 180 degree SOLID bend at the end of the torque tube. this make the left/right movement the same, and also (if you think about it long enough) the push pull functions the same way.
the end of the torque linkage is visible in this picture just to the right of the muffler
updated picture of the linkage
I know this is a vague description without more pictures, anybody understand?
the stabilizer is easy, its purpose is to float in order to accommodate the engine movement on launches etc. So as long as it somehow goes from its mounting point on the transmission, and ends up holding the shift lever ball joint, it should work fine.
The same goes for the pushpull/torque rod. the key to my design though is the 180 degree SOLID bend at the end of the torque tube. this make the left/right movement the same, and also (if you think about it long enough) the push pull functions the same way.
the end of the torque linkage is visible in this picture just to the right of the muffler
updated picture of the linkage
I know this is a vague description without more pictures, anybody understand?
Last edited by zimsplat; 07-28-2009 at 11:44 PM.
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