ShaudFAB

Has anyone tried this out?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171049931439?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

CODE4

Not specifically that model but I have used a dewalt chop saw to cut sch 10. Messy, not perfectly true, and requires clean up. A band saw would yield a cleaner and truer cut.

ShaudFAB

Well this isn't a normal chop saw, it doesn't use abrasive saws.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEWALT-DW872R-14-inch-15-0-Amp-4-0-HP-Metal-Multi-Cutter-Corded-Chop-Saw/361145590701?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D24640fb43989426189046250d2613c7a%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20131003132420%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D171049931439&rt=nc

itspools

I'm possibly too aggressive with metal blades, but I've wasted 2 of them made for steel and stainless. So if I must used my god forsaken chop saw i just use a typical disc from Lowes.

that-guy

I love my Rage II...I've only ever used it once for Sch 10, but cut 3" and 4" stainless with it all the time...just make sure you clamp your piece down really good or that thing will shoot it across the shop like a bullet

its especially nice because the blade on it lasts a really long time, and it makes tiny little chips instead of dust, and creates barely any sparks and doesn't heat up the work piece

tepid1

I love my rage 2. Make sure you use the correct blade and it'll last a really long time. Like "that-guy" said. Clamp it well. I've launched a 4" piece of SS across the garage. Motor has serious torque.

SovXietday

I have used them to cut sch 10. Works well, but you only get a few cuts before the blade is done. I would stick to a regular chop saw or bandsaw for them.

Also, x3 on clamp it well. You will not believe the speed a sch10 piece of tubing can move at when it decides it no longer wants to be touching the blade on these things.

TannerS14

I have used a regular chop saw with a very expensive diamont tip blade. The thing ******* sucked. Way to fast of speed. And as you guys said, it ruined blades. But i think this is mainly due to the body of the saw being weak as **** and the rpm of it. Makes it bounce around all over the place, not to mention a shitty vice which most have.

Baileigh Industrial Cs-250eu 110 Volt European Style Manually Operated Cold Saw. 10" Blade Diameter. | Cold Saws | Metal Cutting Saws | Metal Fabrication | Construction Tools | Toolfetch
They have this one at the shop im working, and ive grown to love it. Cuts super strait. In the past id take a 90* cut outa the band saw and you can see its not quite strait. This thing it really looks dead nuts every time. The blade life is very good as well as the cut speed is slow and the teath are small. First baleigh tool ive used, the hype isnt for no reason.

CRMB

Cheapest long term solution would be a smaller cold saw. A 10" cold saw, set for 50RPM with a 140 tooth blade will probably make 600-1000 cuts in that material before it goes dull. $15 on average to resharpen. Anything else is just not comparable in terms of price/cut.

Agtronic

My only concern would be how to clamp in elbows. You'd need to fabricate or purchase a good jig.