mnskateboarder

Alright, starting last night my transmission has been acting funny. First, my car would not go into any gear when I came up to a stop light. Shut the car off, tried putting it into gear and it just made a "clunking sound" and wouldnt go in. So I started the car back up, pushed the clutch all the way down and I somehow managed to force it into 1st gear. With the clutch pressed all the way down to the floor, and being in first gear, the car slowly started to move without me letting the clutch up.

After I got going, it shifted and grinded into gears and I left it in 3rd all the way home. Parked the car for the night. The next morning I started it up and everything was normal. Shifted fine.

After I drove to work, and 8 hours later when I was about to leave, the car would not go into any gear again. With the car shutoff, I could but the car into all gears just fine with pushing the clutch down. Once I start the car up, it will not go into any gears. When I try and put force, it just grinds really bad.

So I shut the car off, put it in first gear, then started the car, and with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor the car slowly moves if im not pushing the brakes. Even with the brakes pushed, it acts like it wants to go. It does the same in 2nd gear. But once I start driving it, it shifts normal, little tougher then normal actually, but no grinds.

But everytime I come to a stop, I have to shut the car off, put it in gear, and start the car up when I am ready to go.

I have asked a few friends and local repair shops, some have said the throw-out bearing, some said internal transmission problem. Fluid level is full in the transmission, clutch resevoir is full as well.

Any clue to what this problem is? Oh, this is a hydraulic b16 transmission.

Mista Bone

either air in the clutch system or the clutch disc spit out a spring.

mnskateboarder

So I could try bleeding the clutch? The clutch pedal feels the same as always.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Yep. Check the CMC and CSC for leaks. Check clutch fork for full travel.

cloumep3

I just began having same exact problem. I have 04 EP3 (79k miles) and was told that the 3rd/4th synchros were going out since I had tough time going into 3rd/4th gears especially when I'm down shifting. But now, about two days ago, I had identical issue at the stop (didn't need to restart the car, just had break all the way down while releasing the clutch slowly; car started to role foward and made slight disengaging sound). Last night, similar problem while in reverse, the tranny locked on me. Performed same thing as mentioned above, same result. I'm no where near mechanical expert, but my clutch feels fine with all the fluids in normal level, no leaks, no unusual noise. I really don't think it's synchro issue to begin with(although it may truely be worn out), but some other issue. Any expert advice from K-series motor/tranny drivers? Any insight/recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

QUICK8CIVIC

This might be a case of glazed clutch disc face.it just wouldn't release even clutch pedal is depressed.try to replace your clutch disc..throw-out bearing failure won't give that symptom..an internal trans problem won't be apparent too unless you're pushing more than 500Hp on your motor..goodluck!

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

A glazed disc won't allow the pressure plate to pull off of it (the pressure plate is what gets moved by the clutch pedal)?

It takes 500hp to know if I have an internal trans problem?

I've been doing stuff wrong.

cloup,

You likely need to replace the 3/4 sleeve set and probably the mainshaft 3/4 gears. This is a problem with K tranny's (being made out of butter instead of steel).

cloumep3

So, I might as well rebuild the whole new tranny? Also, even with A2 swap and type-s tranny with low mileage, since it's still a K-tranny, I'd be having similar issues down the road??? holy batman!!!

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Just replace what is worn or damaged. You'll still have issues down the road once the trans has more use on it. IMO its always better to repair your trans than get a used one unless you have driven the car the used one is out of before you buy (that or split it open and tear it down which most sellers won't let you do).

cloumep3

that was my original plan right after I picked up my ep3; replace worn-out synchros, new clutch, short-shifter, all seals and such... with labor would run me well over $1400, but are there any other after market parts than the Genuine Honda parts that would give more durability/longivity? I do some spirited driving, but I'm definitely not a hardcore/expert racer (auto-X or drag).

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Nothing to replace the hubs/sliders with unless you change to dog engagement. MFactory makes a 1-6 close gear set that replaces all of the stock gears except for the FD (which can be replaced with an MFactory FD), but the gear set alone is roughly a grand more than the price you just posted.

cloumep3

the quote I got didn't include replacing gears; so, is this a bad deal?

600 for complete labor
350 for all the synchros and some others
400 for clutch(exedy???) and flywheel(NA or Force ind.)

I don't have any grinds and such, just locking up at complete stop and difficulty shifting into 3rd/4th on & off(although became easier after installing after market heavy shift ****; the weight makes the throw easier???).

Figure this would last me good 50k miles as long as I don't beat it...