beanbag

I needed to replace a ripped outer CV boot, but all the guides I saw on the interweb spoke of removing the inner joint and sliding everything off on that side. That seems kind of needless, unless you want to spend extra money to buy more band clamps and re-grease the inner joint. I did see a couple of random comments here and there about removing the outer joint, but the instructions weren't really clear.

So here is a guide I wrote up with some tips.

1) Remove the axle like everybody else says.
a) To remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, use the "wedge something in the gap and lower the suspension" method. I saw a brief video where some guy did it by wedging something in the gap, and then whacking something to loosen the joint. I don't recommend this method.

I suggest this procedure instead:

i) leave the shock/spring connected
ii) loosen the LBJ castle nut by only about 1mm. That way, when the joint pops out, it won't go flying apart.
iii) jack up the suspension by the LCA, then wedge something in the gap.
iv) upon lowering the suspension, the spring force help to pop the joint loose. If it doesn't come loose at this point, tough luck.
v) jack up the suspension back up a bit to take tension off the castle nut, then remove it

b) Removing the inner CV joint from the intermediate shaft (drivers side):
I have read instructions where you can try hitting the CV joint with a plastic hammer or prying. Well, I pried with all my might and it didn't budge. I suggest this method instead, using a 2lb+ sledge. Use a piece of aluminum as a drift and whack that instead.


(passenger side) - I dunno, I haven't tried that yet.

To remove the outer CV joint (after having already removed the boot)

2) Clamp the axle horizontally in a study vise.
Note how much spline you have sticking out of the outer joint. In my case on a GSR axle, it was about 1/2" worth of splines sticking out.

3) Using a piece of aluminum no wider than 1", use it as a drift and hold it against the INNER race and whack that with a big hammer. I've seen other suggestions to whack the outer portion of the joint. That just seems like a bad idea because you are shock loading the bearings. In the following picture, the joint is already sliding off. Note the dent on the outside from trying to whack it on the outer case.


4) The outer joint is held on with a circlip/ring/groove just like the connection at the other end of the axle. There's no need to take off the ring like I did unless you want to replace it.


5) clean the joint, put vinyl tape on the splines, slide the new boot on, etc. I suggest greasing the back side of the joint bearings only at this point to save mess. Hold the boot back in preparation for the next step. In my picture, I already have grease, but I shouldn't have added it until later.



6) To slide the joint back on over the splines, you need to keep the ring compressed in the groove. Thus sounds tricky, but really isn't. Slide the joint on the splines until it presses up against the ring, and keep the pressure on. Using a screwdriver, press in one side of the ring. If you keep pressure on the joint, then you can go around the ring pressing more bits of it in, and the pressure of the joint keeps it from popping out. When all of the ring is in, you can start tapping on the joint with a hammer to push it in further.

7) Remembering how much exposed spline you are supposed to have, continue LIGHTLY tapping in the joint. It should reach the original depth and stop. If it manages to go further, uh oh, you must have screwed something up.

8) Now add the rest of the grease

9) The rest of the steps you have already read from other guides, and they are pretty straightforward.

UPDATE: I found out there really is a proper tool for this job. Honda sells an adapter that screws onto the threaded stub sticking out of the outer joint and lets you use a slide hammer.

UPDATE 2: I found out that it really helps to get these circlip type joints off by preloading (i.e. tugging) the joint when you are trying to pry or whack at it. The preload helps the circlip stay in the groove (on the female side), ready for the big hit. If you don't preload it, the circlip will stay loose after the hit, and you won't be any better than when you started off.

0morgan@synapse motorsport

Good thread, this is a much better method then replacing the entire axle with a junky chinese part that vibrate and fall apart.

flyrod

Very nice! I have always been replacing both boots from the inboard end; I didn't know the outboard end could be taken apart.

Cone_Shark

Good write up, thank you!

slowcivic2k

It is a pain to do if you cannot keep the shaft straight. Most people will whack for 30 minutes before it comes off. Its like removing the axle from the transmission, needs to be square and pressure as even as possible.