2000vsm

ok i know i will need to chnage the TRANNY fluid, of course.. but do i have to BLEED or change the clutch fluid on the slave/master cylinder?

if yes, how the hell do i bleed/put new clutch fluid?

and one more thing, any other fluids to change?

mmuller

yes you have to change it, bleed it just how you bleed the brakes, the slave cylinder has a bleed screw

2000vsm

i don't know how to bleed brakes either, my car is pretty new so didn't change fluids yet on hydraulics.. teach me plz!

mmuller

just buy a helms, trust me you wont regret it. if you are tight in cash you could buy the haynes or chilton with are ok for minor stuff.they are only like 12 bucks

2000vsm

i have a book.. it's vauge, just says "bleed the slave cylinder" but doesn't tell you how

altoid

lok for a bolt with a hole in it and turn it left press the pedal and get a steady stream then tighten it up mid stream. now i've only messed with cable clutches but thats how you do the breaks

Esoterikos

the best way to do it (IMO) is to get a friend and a clear tube that fits the bleeder screw.

1. put a 3/8" (or 8mm, i think) line wrench on the screw, then put the tube on the end. a line wrench is important because it has better contacts than a regular wrench, and will loosen the bleeder screw with less chances of stripping it. the other end of the tube should go into a decent-sized bottle that's half full of whatever hydraulic fluid you are using. (i've used empty rubbing alcohol bottles since they are relatively clear and easy to dry out prior to doing this...you need to be absolutely sure that there is no water in the bottle...not a drop!)

2. open up the master cylinder, and keep a good eye on the fluid level throughout this process.

3. have a friend work the clutch pedal while you do the engine-side work. open the bleeder screw, and have your friend gently pump the clutch pedal while you watch the tube for bubbles and the master cylinder for the fluid level. make sure that you do not pull air in the cylinder. this would happen if the fluid level got too low. just keep it pretty full during this process. also make sure that the tube stays below the fluid level in the bottle, or you'll just be sucking more air into the lines every time the clutch pedal goes back up.

4. repeat the pumping process until you have about a dozen squirts of bubble-free fluid. you might even want to do it a few more times than that, just to be sure. when you think you are done, have your friend hold the clutch pedal down, tighten the bleeder screw, and put the cylinder cap back on. the pedal should now feel firm, and remember: if you put a heavier duty pressure plate on with your new clutch, the pedal will and is supposed to feel stiffer.

5. if you have any more problems, you should resort to bleeding the clutch lines again before anything else. that is most likely the cause of new clutch problems.

extra tips: make sure that your hands and anything else that will be touching the new clutch is completely free of grease, oil, and other junk, and always follow the manufacturer's break-in requirements for you clutch.

good luck!

p.s. do i get a beer for actually posting the entire procedure?

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Just for the record, you don't have to bleed the clutch hydraulic system if you do not open the hydraulic system to atmosphere. You shouldn't need to do this on a clutch replacement unless the clutch master or slave are leaking and/or failing.

ill phil

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just for the record, you don't have to bleed the clutch hydraulic system if you do not open the hydraulic system to atmosphere. You shouldn't need to do this on a clutch replacement unless the clutch master or slave are leaking and/or failing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo- I was wondering if anyone was going to say that as I scrolled down. Just be careful when you pull off the slave cylinder so that you don't let any fluid leak out and knock the ball part of the slave loose (sorry can't think of part name) and you should be fine with out bleeding the system.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Once you remove the (2) 12mm bolts, the slave cylinder will free up and you can move it any way you like as long as you don't break the hard line.

2000vsm

those bastards at honda should have made the line like flexible brake line, not metal!

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

There's a soft line in there too, you just need to remove the (2) 10mm bolts that secures the junction b/w the soft and hard line. Then it'll go anywhere you need it to get it outta the way.

HONDADNA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000vsm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i know i will need to chnage the TRANNY fluid, of course.. but do i have to BLEED or change the clutch fluid on the slave/master cylinder?

if yes, how the hell do i bleed/put new clutch fluid?

and one more thing, any other fluids to change?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't need to remove the clutch slave cylinder - jus unbolt it and rout it to side. so, you don't need to bleed the clutch system at all.