dfoxengr

built built motor, going to run low low 12s like 12flat basically, but daily driven as well. whats the diff between 4 puck and 6? and what is your opinion on what setup i should run, between ACT and CluthMasters. I also need a flywheel by one of those manufacturers.

Nextelbuddy

wow 6 puck is gonna be hard on a daily driver. u must have a strong clutch foot

dfoxengr

ok so what combo should i piece together, im going with ACT/XACT combo BTW

g5r

6 puck act with xtreme pp

raene

I would think that would do it.

4-puck is a rougher engagement than a 6-puck. Basically the less pucks, the more 'race' it is. 6-puck is pushing it for street use but people do it sometimes It all depends on what you're looking for and what you're willing to live with!

One thing I should mention is that sometimes the pressure from the PP and the pedal can actually snap the welds on the pedal assembly. Happened to a friend of mine... the clutch pedal actually broke

AllmotorJunkie

i had a stage 3 ACT clutch---> 6 puck with heavy duty pressure plate. Its not too bad...the six puck.

I like ACT and would recommend you getting ACT combo with 12.5lb flywheel. 4 puck might be to harsh for daily driving...it'll jerk alot in launching. So if you plan on daily...I would stick with a 6 puck.

MikeSarr_GSR

I would steer away from ACT due to shotty materials used... disk splines wear out bro and thats a waste of your time and money. they sit there and knock on the input shaft at idle... crap crap crap. rocket sells some nice clutches... kevlar lined disks that handle great power... I am also not a fan of an over sprung clutch disk and neither are your bearings... ACT XPP is an example of a clutch that can help destroy an engine. I would say if you already assume you are going to change your clutch and flywheel every 15K driven like you hate it fine. If you want more do the kevlar clutch IMHO.

dfoxengr

mm ive only heard good things about ACT, neone else with bad stuff?

raene

I can neither verify nor disprove what he says about the ACT wearing faster except to say... I love my ACT HD clutch w/ stock disc setup I suppose when the time comes to do some transmission swaps or work I'll have a look at it then, but for now it's been trouble-free for me. However I'm nowhere near the power/traction levels required for 12-second timeslips!

MikeSarr_GSR

yea you have a stock disk. forged inner hub, can beat the living **** out of it... no knocky knocky on the input shaft but, have to change it about every 30K... better than aftermarket for that IMHO... I like ITR PP/TOB with Rocket's kevlar lined disk im not a drag racer tho guys, I had a HD/SS once and that thing lasted 18K. I can write a disortation on how much I hate that clutch, because I loved it so:heart: at one point. very decieving.

alot of people that have ACT clutches develop a knock at idle and it goes away when you push in the clutch. they use a cheap metal for the inner hub on the disk.
it begins to gall on the input shaft which is a forged peice. eventually the inner hub can spin out completely... but up until then all you get is KNOCKAKNOCKAKNOCKA.... very annoying and all that vibration transmits into your engine on every shift on that misaligned disk. not good.

mr.beeks

act bad
you want something to last
get a double disk clutch for you daily driven car..
its custom made for you....

raene

Excellent info, thank you for the technical post

ACTman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeSarr_GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would steer away from ACT due to shotty materials used... disk splines wear out bro and thats a waste of your time and money. they sit there and knock on the input shaft at idle... crap crap crap. rocket sells some nice clutches... kevlar lined disks that handle great power... I am also not a fan of an over sprung clutch disk and neither are your bearings... ACT XPP is an example of a clutch that can help destroy an engine. I would say if you already assume you are going to change your clutch and flywheel every 15K driven like you hate it fine. If you want more do the kevlar clutch IMHO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shotty materials? Our pucks use heat treated forged chromoly. Is this shotty? They are not really meant for the street. We could heat treat the splines harder but then the input shaft wears instead! If you use springs the splines would live longer but at the expense of more weight = slower shifting, worn syncros.
"Kevlar that handle great power"? Kevlar has some definite issues. That is why we don't use it, especially for racing. Kevlar is a great insulator which keeps heat out of the disc which means that all the heat goes into the flywheel and pressure plate which will damage them prematurely,(warpage and cracking). It also takes longer to recover from overheating as a result. Wear rate is excellent and doesn't chew up the mating surfaces. This is because the coefficient of friction is very low, which is why they don't hold that much power compared to other materials. It has it's place, but not in racing. I don't even know how to address your last comments because they don't make sense.

dfoxengr

so ACTman, what setup do you recommend

B18C1EKhb

I don't know how much you want to spend all together but if you dont care I would go with the clutch and flywheel package by Tilton. I have heard a lot of good things about them, and a few of my friends with Turbo cars are running them and really like them. But between ACT and Clutchmasters I wouldnt buy anything clutchmaster. I had a Clutchmasters 4 puck and it started slipping after only 8 months, now I have an ACT Maxx Extreme 4 puck and its been almost a year with no problems Also the Clutchmasters flywheel sucks too, I only had it in for about 6 months and the threads wore out and its ruined. Don't get aluminum flywheels, the ACT is chromoly, I haven't tired it but I hear good things about it. Hope this helps.

dfoxengr

i am a dealer for ACT so i get it at cost. do you drive the 4puck on the street?

ACTman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">built built motor, going to run low low 12s like 12flat basically, but daily driven as well. whats the diff between 4 puck and 6? and what is your opinion on what setup i should run, between ACT and CluthMasters. I also need a flywheel by one of those manufacturers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless you intend this to be a dedicated racecar or serious race but only sunday street car I wouldn't recommend the puck. I would definitely use the 6 rather than the 4 puck. Even Skunk 2 B series (Tony) and LNatural H motor (Jeremy) have more clutch than they need with our HD pressure plate and 6 puck. Their NA motors are built to the ragged edge. You could use the Xtreme p/pl with the street disc if the torque is too high for the HD p/pl but I don't know if you would need to. For flywheel, I think the aluminum is too light and will take away from your consistency at the line, but driving styles and personal preference have a lot to do with it. The lighter the flywheel you get the faster you lose rpm and faster you gain rpm, simple as that. The heavier the car, the more advantage to running a heavier flywheel IMO to help you get off the line.

dfoxengr

its a street class allmotor car. daily driven, and race car when theres a race local.
so xtrm pp and street disc, or 6 puck huh?
whats the hybrid street disc?

ACTman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a street class allmotor car. daily driven, and race car when theres a race local.
so xtrm pp and street disc, or 6 puck huh?
whats the hybrid street disc?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on the engine torque numbers. If you are under 220ftlbs use the HDSS kit. If you are over 220 use the XTSS kit. John Shepherd has run 9.3's in his AWD Talon using the same organic materials as our SS disc, so it can handle it as long as you have enough clamp load. You can run less clamp load if you have more friction (puck). Well, you are dealer, read the darn catalog!
Just teasing. Better to get information from those who use it. I know how it is about catalogs. Most are filled with useless hype. Hopefully our catlog is better than most. : )

MikeMAN

I am running a b20vtec in my 98 ex coupe. I have had a 6puck unsprung disc with the heavy duty pressure plate for about 1500 miles now. And all I can say is wow. The thing grabs But be careful of wheelhop because the clutch grabs so well. So invest in some Traction bars and nice tires if ur gunna use it. I can say its VERY streetable, just takes some practice and different methods of driving.

if you have any other questions feel free to pm me,
mike

btw: for those who have never had an ACT, don't try to tell other people how good they are or aren't. hearsay is just that, hearsay.

B18C1EKhb

Yeah I drive the Maxx Extreme 4 puck on the street everyday, you get used to it after awhile and it feels normal. A stock clutch feels like **** now.

MikeMAN

yea, definately. and the stock b16 clutch that i was using was slippping like a ****. That thing sucked *** The day i got the swap it slipped with only 20k miles on it! But then i heard how common this was for the b16 clutches to suck. So then I went and got a b20 bottom end with a Heavy Duty PP and 6 puck unsprung

mike

crxste

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">built built motor, going to run low low 12s like 12flat basically, but daily driven as well. whats the diff between 4 puck and 6? and what is your opinion on what setup i should run, between ACT and CluthMasters. I also need a flywheel by one of those manufacturers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

2 pucks maybe

But Seriously, I got a Exedy Ceramic Paddle and an Fidanza 3.4 KG fly wheel, it ROCKS.

It bites and holds more than a Rotweiler on a 3 yr old!!!!

ACTman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1EKhb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know how much you want to spend all together but if you dont care I would go with the clutch and flywheel package by Tilton. I have heard a lot of good things about them, and a few of my friends with Turbo cars are running them and really like them...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tilton carbon/carbon is good stuff. Tilton doesn't recommend it for street though. Pricey!

artifex

check out the ATS carbon clutch/flywheel combo. they come as a package because the mating surface on the flywheel and disk is larger than other manufacturers, which is supposed to provide massive grip while maintaining smooth engagement and lighter pedal feel because they need less pressure to achieve the same levels of grip.

i have no personal experience with this clutch, kinda pricy ($1300). ATS is a reputable company.

http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-p...shtml