estefi357

Ok guys so my first problem that i have is that the car cranks but wont start.

So i did some research and i checked my dizzy and no spark. I swapped dizzys and still no spark. So i tested the igniter and theres no pulse and the coil on the dizzy has no spark. Checked continuity on the dizzy wires all the way from the ecu to the igniter and it was all good.

I checked my fuel and my spark plugs are wet and i can smell fuel but the thing is that when i cheked for injector pulse thir was non.

Maybe i did the pulse test wrong on the ignitor and injectors if somebody can tell me the correct way to test for pulse the will be great. I seen videos on youtube on how to check for pulse and the use a fancy tool that i dont have i use a test light.

So after more research i came across a diagram on how to check if my dizzy is good, cheking for resistance it came out to 385 or so above the 350 and below 700 spec. Then i check for continuity from wire 2 and 7 i think dont remember right now from the dizzy plug to ground and no continuity so its a good dizzy.

So i moved on to ecu (p75 on a z6 im trying to get a p28) and it looks legit the only code that it gives me its code6.

After all of that i went back and read more and viewd more videos and found that the yellow/green wire on the engine harness to the dizzy clip pulse when cranking but my doesn't do that why? Yellow/green wire is the signal wire from ecu to dizzy. I checked continuity and that is a yes.

I checked battery and i have 2 hooked up. One is the normal battery and the other one is a supplementary battery thats used when u have a powerfull soud system. The battery measures 12.97v ive also changed ground location and sanded to bare metal.

So heres my real problem when cranking the teg tge battery drops to 12.02v im guessing thats ok right?
But when i checked both my injectors wire and dizzy when key is on acc it reads 12.8v/12.97v but when cranking it drops to .30v/.02 why? Is it ground wire? If yes wich one? Bad ecu?

I have checked continuity on my injector wires red yellow blue brown i believe and we have it so no short there right? But i dont know where the yellow/black wires go to to check continuity. Also the yellow/black wires have power going in is that ok?
An other thing is that when i test the coil inside the dizzy i used my test light and connected one end to my battery ground and the test lead to the negative on the coil and light turns on.

After all of this tomorrow im going to test my ignition switch for continuity and voltage drop. After MORE reading it was said that if the ignition switch is bad that that would prevent my car from starting. Can a bad ignition switch cuse voltage drop on my hoce engine harness?

(all the continuity test was from clip to clip all the way back to the ecu)

Also remember yellow/green wire on the dizzy i cut it open and ran a wire to my battery + and then put my test light on the side clip to see if power would go through the clip and my test light didn't turn on and yes i grounded the test light.

What a mess right

fcm

If your plugs are "wet" and smell of fuel, it's a good bet the injectors are working, but to test, start by testing for power, the lead that is the same color at each injector must have 12V+ on them when ign. is on AND when cranking to start.

The power for the injectors is supplied by the fuel injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay.

The ground pulse for the injectors is supplied by the ECU/ECM, if you do not have a noid light, for testing injector pulse, you can use a test light, [LED type] or just listen for the "click", use a long thin screwdriver, touch the injector with the tip of the driver, stick handle end in your ear... using screwdriver as a stetascope - Bing video .

The PGM-FI Main Relay is a common problem on Honda/Acura... http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainr...mainrelay.html but easy to fix most times.

A drop in voltage at the batt. when cranking to start is normal.

To test for spark, get an HEI spark tester, [$10-$15].

And as always, compression test, timing, both electrical and mechanical. 94

estefi357

Thanks man i do have the spark tester bought at autozone and no spark. To check the injector pulse i connect the end of my test light to positve of the battery and the other to the negative wire of injectors (the color wires that got ecu) and no pulse. I was wondering can my main relay be bad even when my fuel pump turns on (i can hear it and when disconnect fuelnline fuel comes out)

I need a wire tuck and relocated battery so im using a distrubutor block from battery to fuse box and starter using 4 and 8 guage wire

estefi357

Ok today i tested continuity from yellow/green wire from the dizzy all the way to the ecu. All good again so i a did a volt check again and it when from 12.some when key on acc to .03v when cranking so thats the same as before but i noticed the that green wire goes to a21 pin i cant really remember right now but anyway thats the ignition coil module pin on ecu.why is the voltage dropping? Is it a bad ecu or ignition switch?

Tested stater when from 12v to 10.5v when cranking thats good

Got just one spark on the coil each time i tryed cranking the motor very small but it was there.
I could assume the igniter on the dizzy is good.

fcm

The PGM-Fi Main Relay can still be bad even if pump primes, there are two(2) relays in the PGM-Fi Main Relay, the injector relay and the fuel pump relay, the injector relay supplies power to the injectors and IGP 1&2 of the ECU/ECM, test all inputs/outputs of the PGM-Fi Main Relay, also check for power at IGP 1&2 of the ECU/ECM with the ign, in both run and start positions.

Did you check for power at the injectors with ign. in run AND start positions? 94

estefi357

I did test the injectors on on position and it was over 12v but when in start positions it droped to 4v.

I was cheking for a short at the igniton control wire from ecu to clip and i mistake it with the tps d17 pin and it had 3v when key on acc why?

I checked a21 pin and there was 12v on acc and 4v when cranking
I think its a bad ecu or ground

Ill check the main realy but i dont think thats the case

estefi357

Ok how do i test the main relay?and what is IGP 1&2? When i check them in both run and start position what has to happen?

fcm

Unplug the relay and test for the 3 powers..

1- 12V constant, [hot at all times].
2- 12V switched, [hot in run].
3- 12V switched, [hot when cranking to start only].

Check for ground, the black lead should have full continuity to chassis ground.

If all good, re-solder the circuit board connections on the PGM-FI Main Relay ....

IGP1&2 are the ign. power input to the ECU/ECM, the power is supplied by the PGM-FI Main Relay, [injector relay] the 2 leads will be the same color as the power lead to the injectors. 94

excaliburcombo

have you check engine ground at thermostat housing?

estefi357

The main relay is good all cliks and solderings inside look good.

Heres a link of what is happening to my integra. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PvVgu6E_z4w

I know that in the video its not a honda/acura but it has the same spark symptom and i think thats why my teg is losing voltage when cranking.

I downloaded the service manuel to see wirring diagram and its kind of hard to read but im trying to trace the my ecu fuse to my ignition switch. That way i can see which wire has to have power when cranking an d if there's no power well i could assume that the switch is bad.

What do u guys think?

estefi357

Ok so double checked the main relay i opened it up and it looks so so but it did click 3 times i think i need to replace it.

I aslo cheked pin a25 and b1 a it was a good 12v. So i checked my ignition switch and the......
white wire has 12v all the time
The black yellow wire has 12v on when key on acc
The black white wire only has power on start but oy has 4v(is this the starter wire?) if yes why does my starter has 10v when cranking?