EF9_TryMe

Vehicle: 94 civic dx automatic.

Let me overlay a brief history of the car before I get down to the problem so people who
are here attempting to figure out the problem with me can actually know a little more about
this little rascal.

Bought the car in october, ever since then it's been having overheating issues due to
a blown head gasket. Didn't have the money until sometime in november. When november
rolled around, that is when I replaced the head gasket and got her firing up right. The
head gasket was replaced, no smoke, no overheating issues. Operating temperature on point. Cooling System fully bled out.

After that job's complete, it has stalling issues at throttle and especially at WOT when reaching operating temperature.
It seems like the problem only occurs in drive, and not
neutral. While in neutral, and you slam on the throttle, it revs up just fine, but when back
in drive, and e brake pulled up and brakes held and motor at WOT, it sort of wants to
like die out and creeps up very gradual in Rev's. This problem mostly occurs at operating
temperature.

The following have been checked:
- Compression
- System voltage, base, and charging.
- Ignition timing.
- TPS Voltage( 0.4v to 4.3v without any disturbance when gradually opening up throttle. The response was perfect. )
- No CEL's, no DTC's
- The car had a hard time starting before, but most likely it ended up being the ground on the valve cover.
Thanks to the power probe, I grounded out the valve cover ground strap and the car turned right over.

My concern is that it has a bad ground somewhere, but how can I find out if it has a
bad ground ? I looked at some of the locations such as the thermostat housing, and
the valve cover ground. I then switched my multimeter to DC Voltage, and looked for
a voltage change by probing the thermostat ground and the battery ground to see
if there is going to be any change ?

I've heard that you can check grounds like this, but I really can't find any information
how ? Can anybody assist me on how to identify a good solid ground ?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Thermostat housing ground is the main ground for your engine harness. Disconnect the 10mm bolt from the thermostat. Set your meter to read continuity,ohms.
(your going totest your engine harness ground wiress)
Either get aligator clips or make aligator clips, probe the ring terminal you just disconnected and probe your ground terminal going into your ecu. They are the 2 black wires. If there is high resistance there (more than 1 ohms) on either wire than there is a problem there. Do that test and i will help you further as people here never tend to post back.

civickiller

sticky lock up solenoid

EF9_TryMe

Sticky lock up solenoid ?

Anyways turbo hatch, do u know which pinouts in the back I need to probe can u give me the numbers and connector alphabet ?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Ff squad has them google the name they have the pinoutsfor ecus

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

And pretty much the grounds are going to be solid black wires

EF9_TryMe

I'm kind of illiterate when it comes down to signifying bad grounds, does it matter which grounds I must probe in the back of the ECU ?

I am going to do so anyways, and then report back to you what the numbers are for each specific connector/number pinout on the obd1 computer in the DX EG, and let you know what happens from there. This way we can test things out, and try avoid all unnecessary factors, and probably get to the end of the diagnostic conclusion.