honda_power69

Been a few years since I've been in the honda game, hopefully I'll be spending more time on the boards soon. I have finally located my backups of the images that were lost on an old hard drive I didn't even think I still had. Will try and get them up by the weekend. Glad to see this old article is still helping people.

40lbBOOST

well, i have idle surge problems, and i've taken the throttle body off and cleaned the FITV. still surging. so i plugged the one of the two holes inside the throttle body during the surge and the top left when plugged stopped the surge. cant get the tps off.. PS. how would i hook up an edlebrocks 70mm throttle body onto the stock intake? the intake is bored to 70mm to. but what do i do with the tps and the vaccum hoses on the throttle body?

darwin1859

I finally fixed my cold-weather surging idle on my 94 Accord F22B2 after numerous tear downs, tightenings, cleanings, gasket replacements, resets, leak tests, etc. The problem in the end was that my idle was about 300 rpm too high! The idle adjustment screw had backed itself out and was acting like a vacuum leak. The idle is super easy to adjust, check it if your surging idle problem lingers after cleaning your FITV and IACV.
Great thread, HP. Thanks! I see now that idle screw was on your list of suspects if the problem was not fixed by valve maintainance- it just took me a while to get to checking that one thing.

Geonerd

Thanks all.

Just fixed my 92 White Whale.... Two idle adjustment screw back-outs in a row!

HOODLOVER

Yessss !!!! This thread fixed my idle!!! F.I.t plunger had backed out..

ChuckNorris

anyone wanna repost these pics or redirect the thread to one with pictures?

Inextricabledrvr

I have a 1997 Prelude with H22a4 with 223K miles. I have cleaned out the IACV, Tightened the FITV, cleaned TB, EG ports, replaced fuel filter. I plugged the top hole and my idle drops to 500 RPM from 1K. When I plug the bottom hole nothing happens.

My car will fluctuate from 1K-1500 every once in a while. It usually does it when im driving and I have to suddenly brake hard. Or if I am idling and I pump the brakes the idle will fluctuate from 1K-1500. I've had this issue for the past 3 weeks and it seems like it's getting worse.

Anyone have any ideas what my issue may be? POssible leak somewhere?

Fuzzman128

I have a 98 civic dx with a b18a1 out of a 91 integra its running obd0. ive got this problem. it sounds like it hits a rev limiter around 1750RPM. if i go above or below 1750RPM it runs fine. and it ldles fine till it warms up then when i burp the gas the rpms go up an when they come down they will fall to almost 0 then go back to normal. ive replaced the iacv and it didnt help at all. any ideas? anyone?

oSrBo

Im with this guy, do i just buy a new FITV SOMEONE TELL ME

honda_power69

Roomate just bought a CRX with a b16 swap that has a slight idle problem. Going to be diagnosing this for him tonight and taking new pictures for everything. Will also update the main post with other common idle problems and their respective fixes. Glad to be back on honda-tech ;-)

Elegante76

Is there anyway you can repost those images for me please, i only see red x's and i need to find out where or how it looks like on my 95 acura integra, i know this topic is out of date, so if anyone has any pictures underlining were this part is at i'd appricate it.

TheBarr0n

Not sure If I have the correct thread, but I'm assuming this is part of the issue. 92 Honda accrd lx, right between 1k and 2k, at about 37mph, my car has a weird leaping feeling(ever so slightly, and i mean slightly,its not a feeling in the steering wheel, you only feel the car being ever so hesitant) and only right at that point between 1k and 2k. If I go beyond or below that point it goes away. Also my car does the erratic idle, which it does once every few months and it disappears. I just had a water pump,timing belt, alt, sprk plugs,wires,distrib w/cap n rotor, new battery, belts and main relay(which has been replaced 3 times now in one year). Oh and a fuel pump. Just looking for some guidance,especially on that slight leaping/hesitant issue. Axel, cv joints and upper ball joints are good, no clicking.

Thanks!

holmesnmanny

It could be a dead spot in the TPS.

Elegante76

This method was posted in a different forum and i would suggest following it before you spend money on the car randomly, since my car is a 95 acura integra, i'll just probably check the engine light first then check repair then replace if i have to, also if the car is over 100k miles you should replace the timing belt or maybe the timing is off but before you get to this part follow the list. I hope this helps bud.. Good Luck!



Idle issues are one of the most common problems that we see (this is because there are MANY things that can cause a poor idle).
I have left this Sticky unlocked so that others may contribute their experience to this thread. Please keep your replies relevant to the topic. Please do not post your idle problems here. If you have an idle problem that is not cured by following this sticky, please create a new thread and be sure to tell us what you have already done. Please post only solutions to idle problems that are not listed in this sticky.

IDLE PROBLEMS
First things first: If your idle problems have developed after you have performed some manner of work on the vehicle, it is a good idea to start with the area where you have been working (i.e. – you just changed the timing belt and now you have an erratic idle. Because of this it would be a good idea to make sure that the timing is correct and all vacuum lines are intact and connected properly before moving on and trying other things).
Obviously if you have a Check Engine Light, start by pulling the code. This will almost certainly give you a good place to start.
Also, I have seen many threads that advise people to change the idle screw setting. Very, very rarely does this screw actually require adjustment. Although you may get a better idle by adjusting this screw, you are usually only covering-up the real problem that has caused the idle issue.

The following items should be checked first:
1)Worn, dirty, faulty, or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
2)Worn/loose distributor cap and/or rotor
3)Old spark plug wires
4)Clogged/dirty air filter
5)Clogged/dirty fuel filter
6)Vacuum leak (check all lines, the throttle body gasket, and the intake manifold gasket)
7)Vacuum lines not connected properly
8)Incorrect ignition timing
9)Air in coolant passages

If the above items are in good shape, and the problem persists, try these:
1)Remove & clean the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. This valve is located on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Looks like this: EGR Pic
2)Remove & clean the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). This is located on the plenum of the intake manifold. Looks like this: IACV pic
3)Remove and clean the throttle body
4)Remove, inspect, and clean the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (Thermo valve How-To)

If the problem is still there:
1)Change the primary O2 sensor (Oxygen Sensor)
2)Test the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
3)Check fuel pressure at the rail. If the pressure is below 35psi, check/replace the fuel pressure regulator. If the regulator is good, fuel pump may need replacement.

On rare/extreme occasions the following items can also cause idle problems:
1)EGR passageways in the head/intake are clogged
2)Fuel injectors are dirty/worn
3)Mechanical failure/damage in the valvetrain (broken spring, bent valve, etc)
4)Poor compression due to worn/broken piston rings
5)Valve adjustment too tight

NOTE: If you have changed your fuel injectors to larger aftermarket units, idle problems can arise from having too-large injectors. This is due to the pulse width becoming too short for the injectors to operate properly.

Elegante76

As he said could be the tps but follow the list, the tps controls the idling and if its not working correctly you would have errtic idleing and shifting.

holmesnmanny

It could also be egr related. To verify, pull the connector going to the egr valve and drive around with the check engine light on for a code 12. See if the problem goes away.

holmesnmanny

How exactly does the TPS control idling ?

Elegante76

I work at autozone and pull the specs up on the tps, here is what it told me on the lookup;

A sensor that moves the throttle plate. as the throttle plate moves, the sensor will send a corresponding voltage reading to the vehicles computer. The wider the throttle opens, the greater the voltage reading. As the throttle opening decreases, so does the voltage. This action enables the computer to control fuel mixture and timing requirments, as well as shift points and torque converter lock up.

This is what happens if it does not work correctly,

A failed sensor can cause hesitation, surging, incorrect idling and errtic shifting of the transmission.

Hope this helped bud..

holmesnmanny

The TPS is only used in non-idle situations. Even if you said that the input at closed throttle is idle related, it's only an input. It has no "control" over idle. If it failed completely, it would throw the code and the ecu(which actually controls the idle through various inputs) would just completely ignore it and run in limp mode.

Elegante76

Well i replaced the tps and my problem is fixed so i was correct the tps does control idling problem, i dunno were you're getting you're information from because the tps does control those sections plus the errtic shifting is gone also and my engine light hasen't came on again.

holmesnmanny

It would only be an issue at idle if the TPS was not calibrated or was giving a false reading at idle due to its failure. Obviously when you open the throttle you are getting information from the TPS. I already said when in non-idle situations(ie.. any "driving" condition") that it would be working at that time.

Make sure you calibrate it correctly. It needs to be at .50v closed and 4.5v wide open for smooth operation. You can backprobe behind the middle wire and test for voltage, then tighten down the two screws when it's adjusted properly.

Elegante76

How do you calibrate the tps, just to make sure i did things correctly, what kinda meter would i need or what do i need to do? Are there any illustrations step by step so i can learn, the help would be appricated.

Accord1320

Any news or updates of those pics? I'm having a surging idle problem again after I:

Replaced my thermostat (it was real bad)
Bled the extra air out of the cooling system
Cleaned out the IACV
Tightened up white piece in the FITV
Blocked off the secondary FITV (at the end of the intake manifold opposite the TB)

The results?

Surging idle
Occasional overheating
White bubbles coming from the radiator after a few minutes of warming up

I am growing frustrated with this frickin problem, and don't know what else to do...

I am running a stock 91 Accord EX with a short ram intake.

Mykul

Can someone re-post the pictures for the article? Thanks!!!