EK Josh

Here's my problem:
When I start my car it idles immediately around 1700-2000 rpms, which I figure is normal because it was just turned on. After the car has been on for a couple mins and the temp is climbing the idle drops to about 1200-1300 rpms. At this point if I give the engine a little rev my idle immediately starts bouncing from 1500-2000 rpms and keeps this up for a good 5 mins. After that the idle drops down and bounces from about 1000-1500 and finally settles at around 1300. I'd say the idle bounces for a good 10 minutes before it finally settles and this is extremely annoying in traffic, plus it's just a bad way of drawing attention. I found this thread and thought I'd be able to solve my problem, but when I went to look for my fitv it seems like I don't have one.


Am I just not seeing it or what? Also if I really don't have one, why is that and what are some other suggestions for stopping my bouncing idle?? Please help me out HT! I've been living with this for 3 months and I just can't take it anymore!! lol.

LSVtechnologytur...

good write up

_Spugen_

Anymore peeeps that have solved this problem?

94hatchling

same problem..... *bumpness*

veggiemaster

You might want to check your IACV, i have found that to be a problem. I had the high shittay idle and replaced my IACV and all was well. You can find that on the back of your IM.

_Spugen_

Well I took of my idle thing thats under the manifold last night and the thing was a little loose....btw the back nut is a bitch cause of the coolant hose below it. I also cleaned the screen of the other thing as well...It seemed to work no more idle problems and its alot quiter for some reason..

EK Josh

Is there any kind of how-to/write up on removing and cleaning the iacv floating around on H-T? I swear I saw one a while back, but I can't seem to locate it now.

honda_power69

One other thing I've noticed as of recently on a few vehicles that can cause idle issues is when someone starts ******* with their intake manifolds...specifically when the throttle cable gets disconnected.

If none of the things mentioned earlier in this thread help, and you have removed the throttle cable EVER, or know the intake manifold has been off at some point, then please check the tension on the throttle cable at the bracket on the intake manifold.

If this cable is adjusted too tightly it will cause the throttle plate to not fully close when the gas is released...sometimes, and sometimes it might not. Easiest way to check this is let the car idle...if the slight surging is there, and you've tried everything else, put the tow of your shoe underneath the gas pedal and pull backwards on it (this pulls tension on the throttle cable). If the vehicle's idle then drops to normal, just readjust the two nuts at the throttle cable bracket located on the runners of the intake manifold.

Thanks to those who appreciated the write-up. I enjoy doing them, and had planned on more for the car to post up on here, but the girlfriend and I now have a baby on the way. Will be posting up both my cars for sale on here and various engine parts I had collected for my turbo build...be sure to check it out.

honda_power69

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robre &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you for fixing my '90 accord after about two years of this problem getting progressively worse. Thanks to this fix my car is running perfectly now and luckily I don't do much stop and go driving so this problem didn't wear down my engine too much. Does the original poster have a paypal account?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, now thats nice. Glad to see your problem solved. No need to paypal, I do have an account, but I wrote this article for my fellow H-T'ers so they wouldn't have to pay for it.

AccordDX89

Good write up here. I found this morning and did it as soon as I got home. My idle is steady now and my fast idle is not ridiculously high anymore. Thanks man.

Chronic_SMOKE

right on i fixed my idle today, thanks alot

honda_power69

Heres my shameless plug for my cars now:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1242332 &lt;--Integra I'm selling

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1242344 &lt;--My Civic...yes the same one from this article...price has been reduced too....

honda_power69

Thought I'd do a random bump on this since I havent been around the Tech section too much lately to help out. I hope to see more people post that this thread has helped sometime soon. Also for those in the market, the car from this feature and my other baby are for sale currently....links in Signature

jbray

Hello Honda_Power,

First let me say that was one of the most informative threads I have seen in a long time. With that said I do have this surging idle problem. I will try this and see if it does the trick. Thank you for the time you put into this. I do have one question though. I just bought a 93 Civic EX and it had this problem when I bought it, it had a severe radiator leak. I thought that this would be the reason for the surge. I replaced the radiator and it did not help. In fact it idles higher now since I changed out the radiator. I am not sure that there is really a connection with that. You mention to bleed the radiator. I know how to bleed brakes. But to bleed a radiator? Can you help me with this? Thank you ... John

honda_power69

First of all there are coolant connections on the FITV, so still don't rule out the FITV yet. As for bleeding the coolant system, this basically means your just making sure ALL the air has been released from the block.

I do this by leaving the engine running with radiator cap removed (removing it before starting the car and while the engine is cool of course). Squeeze the radiator hoses to force coolant into/out of the block and this will force the air bubbles out. Every time the coolant start looking low in the radiator from the bubbles coming up then just pour a little more radiator fluid in it.

Good luck

asiandoood

Just thought I'd bump this thread up. Thanks for a great write up honda_power69. It fixed the problem I've been trying to solve for the past month.

Just wanted to add, that there may be little differences b/t the B16/B18B/B18C. My B18C (0BD1) had only one coolant line running to the FITV. Once the FITV came off, coolant starting spilling from the manifold. People who are doing it for the B18C might want to keep a pan or towel underneath. It spilled quite a lot from the manifold itself.

Thanks again for a great and informative writeup

jbray

Hello ,

First let me say that your article is well written and very informative...I had this problem and it was a sure fix... Thank you...

I have another question related to idle and I was wondering if you knew the answer and if so, if you had any suggestions.

When the car is at idle and you depress the brakes the engine surges...and if you continue to press and release the brake pedal this causes the engine to idle high then it comes back down after you stop doing this. Is this normal? If not what could fix this?
This is for a 92 Civic Ex... and I am not sure if this matters but the Exhaust Manifold is cracked and the b-pipe is broke in-half as of right now too. I do not think the problem is related. However I thought it best to give you all the information....

I hope you can help...Thank you...John

EsQueue

Bump to a great thread. I fixed my idle problem that got progressivly worse. The hole that must be blocked to check was vacuuming in so much air it was screaming. LOUD as hell. The plasice was completely backed out and my idle was even surging when the car was warm.

This is MUCH easier on the Preludes as there is only 1 hose that goes to the FITV. It doesn't have to be removed. the other hose goes somewhere in the throttle body.

Thanks again.

honda95civic

OK i got the idle problem... i followed this thread and it is still messed up.. heres some info

its an auto right now.. switchin it next week so dont hate

my idle flucuates pretty much as soon as i turn the car on(in park).. since its summer..but in the winter it would warm up and then flucuate.. in park

in revers and in drive.. the idle is fine.. but when it starts to warm up from drivin.. maybe a few miles or so.. it will flucuate in drive and reverse also...

if i put the air or heat on.. full blast.. the idle problem goes away... and it will idle a lil high but normal and not flucuate.. but if i take the air or heat off of #4.. (most of the time it has to to be on the 4th setting- if it goes to 3 2 or 1 the idle will flucuate)

so in park and netural.. the idle flucuates...
in drive and reverse the idle is fine.. until its warmed up.. then the heat or air has to go on to stop it...

i replaced the IAC and the idle went fine for like a week.. then it came back.. wtf....was like 110$

i replaced coolant and rid of air bubbles..

cant find any vaccum leaks

WHEN I PUT MY FINGER OVER THE TOP HOLE IN THE INTAKE MANI.. (WHEN THE INTAKE IS OFF) IT SUCKS MY FINGER IN AND THE IDLE GOES NORMAL.. WHEN I TAKE IT OFF... IT IDLES MESSED UP AGIN!!!!!

EsQueue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda95civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHEN I PUT MY FINGER OVER THE TOP HOLE IN THE INTAKE MANI.. (WHEN THE INTAKE IS OFF) IT SUCKS MY FINGER IN AND THE IDLE GOES NORMAL.. WHEN I TAKE IT OFF... IT IDLES MESSED UP AGIN!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sad to say this but it seems like your FITV is bad. Are you sure that you screwed in that plastic piece? Mine was as far out as the back plat would let it. When I started the car and it was cold, the hole in the throttle body was loud as hell because of the volume of air it was vacuuming. I used a flat piece of metal and pushed in the piston which allowed it to catch both sides of the plastic piece. I screwed in it tightly but didn't try to break it. I put everything back together and cold and warm idle were perfect, the car idled much lower too.

honda95civic

yes.. sadly.. the piece was tight.. i wish it was loose cuz that would prolly be my problem..

how much do they cost??

spoonef

Oka heres my problem i think i tightened the fftiv to tight.Anyways when my car first starts up its at 1500 and then goes down to 1000 and stays there then the car starts to surge and you can see it when looking at the engine cuz it will be constant then the engine will start to shake just a little then it will be constant and then shake again.I remember one night i took off my intake and put my finger on the fftiv and it had suction and after holding it there for a little bit the car died but if i put my finger on the icav hole it didnt do that.So what do you think? ive tried everything from bleeding the coolant to screwing that thing down in the fftiv which i think i did to tight.Im thinking of getting a new one but would like to hear what you guys have to say

EsQueue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda95civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes.. sadly.. the piece was tight.. i wish it was loose cuz that would prolly be my problem..

how much do they cost??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no clue but you should first ask around.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oka heres my problem i think i tightened the fftiv to tight.Anyways when my car first starts up its at 1500 and then goes down to 1000 and stays there then the car starts to surge and you can see it when looking at the engine cuz it will be constant then the engine will start to shake just a little then it will be constant and then shake again.I remember one night i took off my intake and put my finger on the fftiv and it had suction and after holding it there for a little bit the car died but if i put my finger on the icav hole it didnt do that.So what do you think? ive tried everything from bleeding the coolant to screwing that thing down in the fftiv which i think i did to tight.Im thinking of getting a new one but would like to hear what you guys have to say </TD></TR></TABLE>

The White plastic can't be screwed too tight. The reason why they say to not overscrew it is so that it doesn't break. If when you block the hole and your car dies, it seems that the problem lies elsewhere. Try backing that gray screw in the throttle body. Some kind of idle adjusting screw.

Maybe your idle is too low?

spoonef

no my idle is not low it sits at 750-800 when its fully warm.

"Try backing that gray screw in the throttle body. Some kind of idle adjusting screw." do you have a pic or can you explain where it is

EsQueue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no my idle is not low it sits at 750-800 when its fully warm.

"Try backing that gray screw in the throttle body. Some kind of idle adjusting screw." do you have a pic or can you explain where it is</TD></TR></TABLE>

On top of the throttle body in between 2 vacuum hoses, there you'll find the adjust screw.

Some slightly topics talk about cleaning your IACV. You should check out this thread. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1235215 It is slightly old but wouldn't hurt to ask a few questions of your problems there.

EDIT: I just realized that this screw may be in a different area or might not exist at all. I have an h22. That thread may not help you.