Nisif

My starter will not crank over with the key engaged in the starting position.
First off, I checked for continuous voltage going from the battery to the main starter terminal. Turned out good, 12+ volts going to the o-ring terminal on the starter.

Then I used a jumper wire from the o-ring terminal (which has 12 volts) to the remote wire terminal on the starter. Starter cranked over, so I can rule out a bad starter.

Then I had my friend crank the car while I checked the voltage to the starter remote wire (black/white wire with a spade connector that attaches to the starter) while the key was in the starting position... It read 3.6 volts, whereas I should be getting at least 12 volts in order to engage the starter.

I looked up the EF starting circuit diagram from the Helm's manual, here it is:

(Having issues uploading the adobe image from the helms, I'll try to have the diagram posted asap for ref, its page 535 of 681 in the helms)

I removed the steering column cover and checked the black/white wire solder terminal on the igntion/key switch while turning over the key... It read 12 volts on my multimeter.

Somewhere between the ignition/key tumbler switch and the starter remote terminal I'm getting a drop in the voltage causing the starter not to crank over. I thought there are a few interuptions before the remote terminal on the starter, such as the clutch switch, starter relay, although the diagram doesn't show it. IS the diagram correct or are there other bypasses that are "in line" with that circuit before it reaches the remote starter terminal?

FYI, the 10 Amp starter fuse is good, and I can definately hear the Walbro fuel pump prime/turn on as I'm engaging the key in the start postion with the clutch pedal engaged to the floor, which leads me to believe the clutch pedal switch is fully functioning assuming it only provides voltage to the fuel pump and not to the starter.

Something worth mentioning...I have a Greddy turbo timer installed, need to look up the wiring diagram again but I'm not sure if it taps into the black/white wire from the ignition/key switch...



Modified by Nisif at 3:47 AM 1/17/2008

Nisif

No response from the EF/CRX forum so I relocated the post for input. Car is a 91 Civic hatch. Unfortunately I can't get the diagram to upload although it wasn't much help in the first place.

The black/white wire runs from the ignition switch/key tumbler to the starter remote wire terminal. The black/wire runs to the fuse block, then to the starter relay, then to the clutch interlock switch before it meets the starter remote terminal based on visual inspection...correct if I'm wrong.

Anyhow, I tried splicing into the black/white wire after the ignition switch/key tumbler and running a jumper wire directly to the starter remote terminal and the starter still will not engage. I checked for voltage at that spot I spliced into and it read above 12 volts when the key is turned over and held in the starting position. Why is it not engaging the starter?

Btw, the turbo timer does not tap into the black/white wire off of the ignition switch so it shouldn't be an issue.

Nisif

ttt

fourthgenhatchB17

I had a similar problem with my EF a loooong time ago. After all my tests checked out OK (even the ignition switch!), i said *** it and bought a new ignition switch (just the electrical portion behind the tumbler) from Honda. It fixed it. I dont have much confidence in the cheap manuals and their so-called test procedures.

My car had no turbo timer like yours, so u may want to disconnect that then see what you're getting at the remote terminal on the starter. Just do it so u can eliminate it as a possible problem.

Nisif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a similar problem with my EF a loooong time ago. After all my tests checked out OK (even the ignition switch!), i said *** it and bought a new ignition switch (just the electrical portion behind the tumbler) from Honda. It fixed it. I dont have much confidence in the cheap manuals and their so-called test procedures.

My car had no turbo timer like yours, so u may want to disconnect that then see what you're getting at the remote terminal on the starter. Just do it so u can eliminate it as a possible problem.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the response. All the tests I've done are taken from the Helm's and using logical electronic diagnosing but the ignition switch is worth a shot at this point because I've ran out of ideas. I even ran a jumper wire where the black/wire runs directly from the ignition switch to the 4-pin connector next to the interior fuse block. Still no luck, even though it reads 12 volts from the black/white wire.

I'll try disconnecting the turbo timer even though it doesn't splice into that wire, and then try replacing the ignition switch.

When you ordered the part "the electrical portion behind the tumbler", was it an easy install? More or less, I'm wondering if installing the part required breaking any anti-theft break-away studs on the tumbler. I'll take a look at it again, but I'm trying to get an idea of what component you replaced.

Nisif

Here's a link to the combination switch parts page with an illustration. .
https://www.hondapartsdeals.co...B++11

I need to download the Firefox browser to improve the pic quality and I'll try to upload the image on here. Either that or if the part is on that page let me know, thx.

Here's the pic:

hugo_one

im having the same problem in my 90 civic hatchback now too this sucks i hav been just pop starting it for the last few days but finding a small hill is sometimes hard lol

fcm

My guess is there is a problem at the starter relay, [relay contacts are burnt] with 12V at the ign. switch starter lead and only 3.6V at the solenoid indicates high resistance at some point between switch and solenoid, first place I would look is at the starter relay, unplug the relay and install a jumper, try starting car. 94

Evs-One

OP:

Are you saying there is a voltage drop of only 3.6V, or there is 3.6V available AFTER the starter is engaged? Are there any clicks at all?

hugo_one

no mine isnt doing anything at all - no power to starter what so ever