DJNauTicz

i wanted to sand down my car...but i dont know which way is better..power tool sand or..hand sand..which one is better?? any advice??

vestalfootball72

why is it that you would like to sand down your car removing all the paint?

DJNauTicz

well.it's because.the old owner of the car.he painted the car badly..like the paint is coming off..and they didn't sand down the car before they paint it..so yea. i need to repaint it..so i wonder wat way is better to sand it down

vestalfootball72

hm generaly when you paint a car you dont bring it down to bare metal unless its where you are doing body work. I do not have experience however with cars that have previously been painted incorectly. The easiest way would to be use a power tool.

gsrious

power tool sand ftw. then hand sand for the finishing touch ups.

DJNauTicz

yea i was thinkin about that...i was thinkin about sand it..deep..not to metal..and then..use hand sand to finish touch work.i just want to make sure everything is smooth.and is not going to fade out..or pill out that's why..

civicstar

been in the body world for awhile now and if u want to sand the paint down to repaint it and do minimal body work, best to do is use wet sand paper (useing hand, when u use ur hands, u can go along the curves and not get to crazy and sand to the metal, takes alil more time but its worth the time you save if u mess up with power), go with like a 180 or 320 grit to get the clear and most of the paint and finish up with a 600. i prefer to only use power sanding if im sanding bondo, because power tools can easy overpower the paint and sand through to the metal and then there will be need of body work.

DJNauTicz

oh..kool thanks..what if.i use it to use power sand for like minor sand..just to sand down the top clear clote..then use hand sand to sand down the rest? is that better???

civicstar

yeh, if you want, the hardest to sand is the clearcoat, once u get that off, its really easy to sand, then you dont need to ruff of a wetsand paper, becuz the ruff was to get the clear off

B6tPoweredMx3

120-220 on a DA is what i would use, just clean the car very well with a prepsol before and after you sand it.

civicstar

if you do happen to sand to the metal or so, just use some filler primer over it, as long as its not too bad and then sand that with 600 to even it out

B6tPoweredMx3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicstar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you do happen to sand to the metal or so, just use some filler primer over it, as long as its not too bad and then sand that with 600 to even it out</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know about 600, seems to fine to me, for a first coat id go 320-400, then move to the 600.

civicstar

well just depends on how you want to do it, primer is easy to sand, clearcoat is hard thats why u need a ruff grit, but if ur gonna paint it urself, after that, ur gona have to go up to 800, nothing like seeing sanding marks with a ruff sandpaper

strictly.business

if you want to go to bare metal, use aircraft paint stripper or any REALLY good paint stripper. youll need close to 2 gallons to do the whole car. lay the **** down real thick, let it bubble, wait 10 minutes, scrape off. if it doesnt bubble, add more. just dont get the **** on your skin, seriously ******* burns.

DJNauTicz

yea..that will be too much and tat stnks like hell

strictly.business

well, thats the only way youll get to bare metal. unless you sand for 40 hours.

b16a4

brake fluid strips paint too

civicstar

so do keys! jk well i really think its a hassel to do body work on a car that has it stripped to the bare metal but it does let u start over with no billion layers of bondo and paint! GOOD LUCK

DJNauTicz

thanks for the help.ill prolly start with the power tool.and then..use hand...thanks