PCV valves keep clogging?
#1
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PCV valves keep clogging?
One night i drove about 200 miles city, and noticed mustard like stuff was leaking into my intake. PCV valve was totally clogged with this thick mustard type sludge. I replaced the PCV valve and the next day drove around for about 50 miles. The PCV valve was clogged slightly. The oil cap is clean, normal oil levels.
I got an OEM honda PCV valve now and tried this one, only drove about 10 miles, but still I can see some gunk on it, and am fearing this one will clog.
Could it be the cold weather? a vac leak or is it blowby? I was driving in about 0 degree weather with the TB and IACV coolant hoses bypassed and it was giving me a very high idle at redlights.
Any suggestions? car has very low throttle response as well.
I got an OEM honda PCV valve now and tried this one, only drove about 10 miles, but still I can see some gunk on it, and am fearing this one will clog.
Could it be the cold weather? a vac leak or is it blowby? I was driving in about 0 degree weather with the TB and IACV coolant hoses bypassed and it was giving me a very high idle at redlights.
Any suggestions? car has very low throttle response as well.
#3
I'd guess the coolant lines could cause the idle...
The idle will be really high when the motor is cold, mine idles at like 1500 RPM when its cold, and I live in AZ... So cold to me is like 45+... I don't have a thermostat in my motor right now, so it runs a bit colder when cold out... So even when my temp gauge says im at normal operating temps, my car idles like its cold... Only during the day does it idle normally...
Being in super cold weather like that would probably trick your car into thinking the engine is still cold... I would go get those lines and hook them up... As for the PCV problem, I have no idea.
The idle will be really high when the motor is cold, mine idles at like 1500 RPM when its cold, and I live in AZ... So cold to me is like 45+... I don't have a thermostat in my motor right now, so it runs a bit colder when cold out... So even when my temp gauge says im at normal operating temps, my car idles like its cold... Only during the day does it idle normally...
Being in super cold weather like that would probably trick your car into thinking the engine is still cold... I would go get those lines and hook them up... As for the PCV problem, I have no idea.
#6
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Re: (Phre0nBurn)
if your getting that color[i call it butter]then its probably coolant in the oil. if it was just oil a catchcan may help . what does it look like on the dipstick and oil cap?
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oil cap is fine, dip stick is clear, with a very light yellow tint, but it might be the amsoil.
this **** isnt even chocolate milk color, its litterally like butter. However i dont ever lose a drop of oil or coolant, and i dont over heat.
i have a catch can, but its after the PCV valve, so it doesnt affect it, however it seems the catch can is always empty.
this **** isnt even chocolate milk color, its litterally like butter. However i dont ever lose a drop of oil or coolant, and i dont over heat.
i have a catch can, but its after the PCV valve, so it doesnt affect it, however it seems the catch can is always empty.
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#8
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Re: (bigsyke)
the catchcan after the pvc isnt gonna do you much good. the pvc valve closes at high rpms which is where you need it.
also if it looks like butter im almost sure theres coolant and oil mixing somewhere. you said its not running up to par. i would do a comression check and leakdown test. sometimes if the headgaskets blown there will be excesive pressure coming out the radiator cap hole. im just trying to give you some suggestions
also if it looks like butter im almost sure theres coolant and oil mixing somewhere. you said its not running up to par. i would do a comression check and leakdown test. sometimes if the headgaskets blown there will be excesive pressure coming out the radiator cap hole. im just trying to give you some suggestions
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Re: (4g hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the catchcan after the pvc isnt gonna do you much good. the pvc valve closes at high rpms which is where you need it.
also if it looks like butter im almost sure theres coolant and oil mixing somewhere. you said its not running up to par. i would do a comression check and leakdown test. sometimes if the headgaskets blown there will be excesive pressure coming out the radiator cap hole. im just trying to give you some suggestions</TD></TR></TABLE>
as far as I know the PCV is fully open durring WOT since its not being pressed against any surface of the valve. Would you suggest placing the PCV valve on the IM side of the can?
Ive started the car with the radiator cap off, and the liquid didnt even ripple, so i dont think there is a leak in the HG, however your advice does help and I probably should get a leakdown and compression test done. anybody else have any suggestions or experience?
Thanks hatch for your insight
also if it looks like butter im almost sure theres coolant and oil mixing somewhere. you said its not running up to par. i would do a comression check and leakdown test. sometimes if the headgaskets blown there will be excesive pressure coming out the radiator cap hole. im just trying to give you some suggestions</TD></TR></TABLE>
as far as I know the PCV is fully open durring WOT since its not being pressed against any surface of the valve. Would you suggest placing the PCV valve on the IM side of the can?
Ive started the car with the radiator cap off, and the liquid didnt even ripple, so i dont think there is a leak in the HG, however your advice does help and I probably should get a leakdown and compression test done. anybody else have any suggestions or experience?
Thanks hatch for your insight
#10
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Re: (bigsyke)
at WOT the vacum from the manifold pulls the valve close. you can hear it rattle when you shake it,thats the valve. you could try a different brand of oil,you never know. also a compression guage at your parts store isnt more than 30$. they are good to help check to see if a motor is healthy. the leakdown you can get a shop to do unless you have a compressor and the tester
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