PINKS

This is a brand new rebuilt d16a6 motor, total bottom end is 100% new with new parts, the head is completely built and was previously used for 4500 miles and then slapped on my motor.

The car ran great for the first 3K or so Ive had it and just recently I noticed that after the car is fully warmed up and you go for a drive. Come to a stop or slow down hard, the car will kind of billow smoke. Not to heavy but enough to surround the car and into the cabin a bit.

Smelt like burning oil so I pulled the plugs, sure enough #3 was SOAKED, a good 1/2 teaspoon all up the threads and on the tip of the plug.

I did some research and found that the valve cover gromets like to fail on people, picked up a brand new set and threw em in, didnt work.

Now this problem doesnt seem to be constant, the car has gone a day before without smoking, but today it smoked at almost every full stop.

It will not smoke if you start the car up from cold and let it idle, no smoke at all.

Im lost on what it could be or how I could fix it.

PINKS

PINKS

bump, compression test and new valve cover will be done tonight

ylfotevoli

The oil was on TOP (wire side) of the spark plug? Any in the cylinder?

PINKS

The oil was ALL OVER the spark plug, threads and the tip, plug wire and everything, not just a very little either, was pretty coverred

PINKS

Compression Test Results - 130 - 130 - 130 - 130

Damn that made me smile seeing those numbers , whether they mean something or not

I really would like to know how oil is getting all over my dam spark plug though

96 GSR-T

130 is LOW

How did you do the test, did you have the throttle wide open?
how many times did you crank the motor?
was the motor completely warm?

PINKS

Its a d16a6 with vitara pistons, the readings are normal form the motors Ive seen

the throttle was not wide open, engine was cold and it cranked 4-6 times to reach maximum reading

PINKS

bump it

96 GSR-T

Well then your results are wrong.

1. Warm the car completely
2. Pull all the plugs
3. Do the test WOT
4. Pull the ECU Fuse

EDIT: whats the compression ratio on teh motor? Im 9:1 and I see 190 across the board

PINKS

8.4:1

Results were all the exact same, im happy

Dramier

Have you inspected the grommet and seat completely to make sure there is no physical damage allowing it to leak?

PINKS

The oring is new, the head where it seals against looks like it was just freshly machined, perfect surface

Definetely coming from somewhere else I beleieve

Dramier

Ok, if you get desperate...

You can take a low pressure air line, attach an air blower to it, stick it in your oil dipstick tube and pressurize your oil passages and listen for air...

I've done this on a few and found otherwise impossible to find leaks.

PINKS

Im assuming the plugs ar epulled and im listenning in the #3 cylinder?

Dramier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im assuming the plugs ar epulled and im listenning in the #3 cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would only pull the #3 plug.

PINKS

No throttle wasnt open at all

UI would like to know if lowerring the oil pressure may help based on whats Ive found thouh

PINKS

Im not trying to fix, Im trying to BANDAID for 3 months until winter possibly

Ive got a built motor here as my spare but do not want to install it yet

I would like to lower oil pressure quite a bit because it only smokes at at stop and with high oil pressure, my oil pressure on a cold start is 75psi, quite high. Even after being run for 10 min its still only 45-50 at idle

I would like to bring that number drastically down I think so the pressure is less great and it wont make it into the combustion chamber or maybe just a lot less that I can tolerate

Or maybe I need to go with thicker oil and it wont sneak passed?

PINKS

96 GSR-T

How are you planning to lower your oil pressure?

PINKS

I dont know, very thin oil, hydraulic oil came to mind if possible

Im sure there may be other things, the higher mileage oil sounded good

PINKS

bump

PINKS

The head has not even a filter and the block has only the little black box mounted to the block with it also left unhooked to anything else

Im thinking this problem is coming form my valve seals, maybe they swell up after worm or the oil pressure just drops enough to not let the oil go passed, so today Im trying out some 5W-20 oil, installing thermostat

I also want a recomendation for an engine additive, they had plenty at the store there to try, some said stopped oil consumsion, stopped oil burning etc etc

Do any of them work better than other at targetting the valve seals?

PINKS

OK so the 5W-20 oil didnt work, car still smokes at the same points, not a huge difference in when the cars oil pressure lowers either.

Does anyone think a straight SAE50 oil with some STOP LEAK I picked up from the store would work? Or is that way to high?

The way I figured it was that the car doesnt smoke at under 30psi oil pressure, but it also doesnt smoke when the car is cold. I was thinking SAE50 wouldnt thin down enough to let itself passed the valve seals or rings (whichever it is thats leaking), since most of my drives are either sub 5 minutes or over 20....

I need some advise