masospaghetti

I know this has been discussed before. Here's what I'm curious about. I know that the H23A1 bottom end isn't as balanced as the H22 bottom end and generally just wasn't designed to rev as high. Seems that 7000 RPM would be about it's maximum before a greatly diminished life.

However, the H23 has a longer stroke so it moves more air per RPM - so wouldn't this partially negate the effect of a lower revving engine? Seems that lowering the VTEC engagement point a bit would allow the overall airflow to be similar and allow a H23A hybrid to both perform well and be reliable.

At least, it seems like it would perform much better than the stock H23A1 non-VTEC head even with a 7000 RPM maximum engine speed.

Thoughts? Opinions? I ask because I have a H23A1 that might need headwork. If it can be made reliable, it seems to make more sense to get a H22 head on my H23A1 block even if it's not 100% as good as a true H22.

Allgood

I kinda wanted to here where this was going to go. I just bought a 96 prelude that has a H23a1 and a vtec head. Im just trying to figure out of someone just slapped the H22 head on a H23a1 and thats why it redlines at 6500 and no working vtec.

Robert Huebel

I have a 97 prelude with a h23a block a d h22 vtec head,crazy power with no turbo,I had to replace the egr valve(150)code egr purge valve(100$) and the vtec solenoid (400$) code, new distributor (250$) I got a code that all didnt work,its chipped. 5th gear feels like you are in 3rd.crazy torque!!! Was told you have to drill oil ports in the a 22 head also change the timing gears. Even at a 100 miles an hour if you press the gas its aggressive there's no lag whatsoever. Gonna put it on the dyno next week and get a small Turbo maybe 5 pounds of boost don't wanna go over 300 horse and I don't know if it has stock internals. I would recommend you have someone that to done it before do it It's not as simple as just putting the head on and going but if it's done right it's a beast