wm5holla

I had seen an article detailing how to do this job floating around the Internet and although it was written about the Nissan SE-R I though it should work for the MR2 SC. The basic info from the original article led me down the right path. I'm just adding pictures and my own text. Since I was only concerned with the back and forth movement of the engine during accel and decel I only did the front and back mounts.

Here's what you need..

(2) Jack stands

(1) Hydraulic Jack

17 and 14 mm sockets and wrenches

Hammer or Air wrench

1 Pound can of Flexible Urethane.Casting Compound (this is really enough to do four mounts)

48 hours with your MR2 in the air or a spare set of Engine mounts

If you don't have the jackstands and Hydraulic jack, don't do this. I don't want to hear about it.

Okay...First log on to the McMaster-Carr web site. Your looking for Flexible Urethane,. They have a terrible layout and it's hard to find things, but here's what your looking for. (three choices). To order, just enter the part number in the search window. I purchased both the 60A and the 80A planning to do two sets and trying each.



8644K24 Flexible Urethane Shore 60A $24.14

8644K11 Flexible Urethane Shore 80A $20.88

8644K18 Flexible Urethane Shore 94A $20.71



Shore 60A is the most compliant and 94A is a hardest. If you're target is a full on race machine then go for the 94A (or machine mounts from billet Aluminum, it'll be much lighter). and do all four mounts. If it's going to be a daily driver then go for either the 60A or 80A. I used the 80A on only the front and back mounts and I notice quite a bit more noise and vibration in the cabin. Not terrible, but I like those kinds of noises.

One last thing to decide. If you can't do without your car for at least two days you need to find a spare set of engine mounts. The mounts need at least 48 hours to cure at room temperature. One other thing to consider is that it is having an extra set of motor mounts makes it much easier to reassemble as well as safer. However, since the engine is held in with the side mounts it isn't that difficult to do without spares. With that said, let's start now.

To remove your motor mounts you'll need to jack up the rear of your car so that you can slide un and work easily. You'll need to work forward of the engine so it needs to be fairly high. Next put the hydraulic jack under the transmission and raise it to it is tight against the gearbox, but not lifting the car. The easiest way to get at the rear mount is to remove the the cat and muffler. This can be done with just four bolts. Undo the two bolts that connect the cat to the downpipe. Now remove the two bolts holding the drivers side muffler mount to the trunk floor. The entire system is now loose and needs to be slid out of the passenger side muffler mount. Slide it towards the driver side until loose and the move it out of the way. The rear engine mount is now easy to work around.

Here are the stock mounts removed from the car. You'll notice that they both have fairly large voids. These voids are what allow the motor to move and isolates the vibrations from the cabin. By filling these voids with Urethane we will eliminate the isolation factor and limit the rocking movement of the engine.

To prepare these mounts for filling you need to clean these up very well. Use a cleaner to remove the dirt and gunk. Make sure to rinse and dry the mounts very well. The bond between the poured in Urethane and the stock mounts depends on the cleaning job you do at this point. Once you are happy with the cleaning job, tape one side of each mount up. You'll notice that I cut out for the bolt hole, DON'T do this! All that I accomplished by doing this is to waste a bunch of liquid urethane (check the next picture) and almost ending up with not enough urethane to fill it up!

Here is the filled mount. If you look carefully in the picure under the mount you'll see a pool of urethane. This is because it's leaking out of the hole I so carefully cut around the bolt hole. This stuff has incredible flow characteristics and will seep out of any small hole you leave, so make sure your tape job is hole free.

The mounts will be set up in an hour or two and will be cured in about 48 hours. Once they are cured, remove the tape and take a drill bit and clean out the bolt hole. You now have solid motor mounts to install in your favorite toy!

Install the same way your uninstalled.


Home Made Poly-Urethane Motor mount
As well as motor mount repair


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One of the biggest problems in most cars is soggy motor mounts. This could be caused by torn or damaged motor mounts or they are just too soft. This can result in a few different problems. In the case of rod shifter manual transmissions, (up to 6g civics and 3g integras) soggy motor mounts can lead to quite a bit of shifter movement. This problem alone isn't that bad.

The problem with less than satisfactory motor mounts comes into play under heavy launching. Power hopping, or wheel hop, is one of the main problems. Soft motor mounts can act like rubber bands during hard launches. When the engine torques over, it puts pressure on the motor mounts before it goes through to the wheels. Once the motor mounts are pushed to the limit the wheels start turning. What can happen is that the motor can bounce violently causing a little more power to hit the ground (from the tension in the bushings) and cause the car to hop.

Hopping leads to poor 60ft times, loose interior pieces will go flying and worst of all, drive train damage. A broken CV joint can really put a damper at the strip (personal experience!).

There are few solutions out there. Energy Suspension makes poly urethane motor mount inserts. HAsport makes solid poly urethane motor mounts. The cost of the bushings isn't really that bad, but those on a tight budget may be interested in a less costly method. Replacing every bushing with poly urethane bushings of any type may be a bit harsh so I would try one mount at a time. Along with that thought I haven't found replacement torque mounts.

When I originally swapped in my B18C1, my torque motor mounts were already very weak and showing signs of complete failure. The torque mounts help to prevent movement caused by torque. (duh!). If these mounts are weak they can lead to excessive engine movement and cause undesired results. I decided to try a trick that pretty much every Nissan guy out there has tired: Do it your self poly urethane motor mounts. I chose 3M window weld per a friend's recommendation. It's easy to find and relatively easy to work with.



What you'll need:
A tube of 3M's window weld ($10.99 at Advanced Auto)
Caulk gun ($1.99 at Wal-Mart)
Brake cleaner or some sort of cleaning solvent
Something flat and about an inch wide (see pics)
Proper tools to remove the desired motor mount
As you can see, my torque mounts were completely trashed. My thought was that I would only be wasting about $11 on the window weld if I didn't like it. I needed new mounts anyway so I gave it a shot.



Before I started filling the mounts, I took a second to clean them with brake cleaner. Any cleaning solvent should work fine. Given the fact that my mounts were in multiple pieces, I had to make sure that they didn't move around while I filled. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

Start by filling the mount roughly half way in. Make sure you don't leave any air pockets. This can probably be accomplished by squeezing the material all the way through. If you didn't chose that route, flip it over and fill it up the rest of the way. I chose to go a little over board with the material and make the mount a little thicker.



Once you are satisfied with the amount of the material, it's time to smooth it out. This may only be a cosmetic issue, but I felt that it would help push the material into areas that you may have missed.



Once you are complete satisfied with your work set it aside and do not touch it for at least a day. I found that waiting a few days allows it to fully cure. However, 24 hours should be more than enough time to allow it to cure and reinstall.



Here are a few shots of the cured mounts as well as shots of the mounts installed in my civic.



*Note: If you have access to rubber gloves, I would very seriously recommend their use during this process. The black "goo" is almost impossible to remove from you hands.

Impressions:
I am thoroughly impressed with the effect of the torque mounts. In the case of my civic, there was significantly less shifter movement. Coupled with my Z-10 radius arms, I've eliminated wheel hop. Even in the most likely wheel hop situations I've experienced smooth and controlled wheel spin along with very solid acceleration.

Since I only modified two of the 5 mounts on my civic, there really isn't that much more vibration inside the car. When it's fairly cold out I do experience more buzzing interior trim but it's only at idle.

I would suggest this modification to anyone interesting in a very low cost edge.

Note: I've seen quite a few people make comments about this idea's reliability and it's appearance. The reliability of this setup is excellent! After a year of abuse and a horrible accident, these mounts held up on my civic. I'll be reusing them in my current civic.

As for the appearance issue, this is a budget repair. Most budget projects do not turn out as show quality pieces.

http://importnut.net/motormount.htm
i just wanted 2 share what i found

tundra2000

were do you get the Flexible Urethane, Shore 60A at?

TunerN00b

1) You bumped a 9 year old thread to ask that?
2) It clearly states where to buy it, and even includes the part number.