Camshaft break - in procedure HELP!! need advice!
10-22-2002, 06:06 PM
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Camshaft break - in procedure HELP!! need advice!
Ok, the comp cams told me i had to dump my current syn oil in my engine and put in non-detergent reg oil for the intial break in.
They also said that to use regular oil for at least 1 maybe 2 oil changes then switch back to syn because of the wear pattern the cam needs, since the syn can't make it happen or something.
I have many questions about the cam break-in process and general questions about syn oil and reg oil changing back and forth.
1. Is it safe to go back to reg after running syn THEN going back to syn again? i heard all those myths about rings being not sealed etc after i go to reg then back to syn.
2. What oil do i use for initial break in? what brand or specific weight?
3. What is a non detergent oil? what brand?
4. They told me to adjust the valve lash COLD before the intial break-in, then after the break in, check/adjust them HOT?
Doesn't honda state always do valve adjustments COLD? BUT comp cams said their lash specs are for HOT engine!!
5. Which parts do i put the assembly lube, do i put it on the lifters as well? do i put it all over the lobes and even the non lobes where the journals will go? Do i ONLY use assembly lube and not oil?
6. Is it necessary to "prime" the engine before the intial break-in by cranking the oil pump manually and also putting the engine at the #1 pistion starting compression stroke with intake vales closed?
7. How can i adjust the ign. timing with engine off? Is this necessary to advance the timing for the intial break in?
8. I know after the 30 min run-in, i have to dump the oil because of the assembly lube and metal etc.. do i have to change the filter again as well??
9. After the intial break-in (30 min at 3000rpm thing), do i have to baby the engine/car for 500miles or something like that before i can get on it?
10. how long do i wait to change the oil after i finish all the intial break in procedures? Do i change it at 500miles or the regular 3500 miles?
11. Does our honda engines use LIFTERS?? If yes, does new cams require new lifters? comp cams don't even sell for our engines so i assume we don't have or need them.
12. I assume the section on the rocker arms and pushrods are not for us hondas right? We don't have pushrods for sure i know, but how about rocker arms?
13. The zex cam is not a hydralic roller cam or solid roller cam right? WHat is it? flat tappet cam?
14. Do we have to adjust rocker arm clearnace? if we have any adjustment thing that is.
15. Do we have to check camshaft endplay or pistion to valve clearance?
They also said that to use regular oil for at least 1 maybe 2 oil changes then switch back to syn because of the wear pattern the cam needs, since the syn can't make it happen or something.
I have many questions about the cam break-in process and general questions about syn oil and reg oil changing back and forth.
1. Is it safe to go back to reg after running syn THEN going back to syn again? i heard all those myths about rings being not sealed etc after i go to reg then back to syn.
2. What oil do i use for initial break in? what brand or specific weight?
3. What is a non detergent oil? what brand?
4. They told me to adjust the valve lash COLD before the intial break-in, then after the break in, check/adjust them HOT?
Doesn't honda state always do valve adjustments COLD? BUT comp cams said their lash specs are for HOT engine!!
5. Which parts do i put the assembly lube, do i put it on the lifters as well? do i put it all over the lobes and even the non lobes where the journals will go? Do i ONLY use assembly lube and not oil?
6. Is it necessary to "prime" the engine before the intial break-in by cranking the oil pump manually and also putting the engine at the #1 pistion starting compression stroke with intake vales closed?
7. How can i adjust the ign. timing with engine off? Is this necessary to advance the timing for the intial break in?
8. I know after the 30 min run-in, i have to dump the oil because of the assembly lube and metal etc.. do i have to change the filter again as well??
9. After the intial break-in (30 min at 3000rpm thing), do i have to baby the engine/car for 500miles or something like that before i can get on it?
10. how long do i wait to change the oil after i finish all the intial break in procedures? Do i change it at 500miles or the regular 3500 miles?
11. Does our honda engines use LIFTERS?? If yes, does new cams require new lifters? comp cams don't even sell for our engines so i assume we don't have or need them.
12. I assume the section on the rocker arms and pushrods are not for us hondas right? We don't have pushrods for sure i know, but how about rocker arms?
13. The zex cam is not a hydralic roller cam or solid roller cam right? WHat is it? flat tappet cam?
14. Do we have to adjust rocker arm clearnace? if we have any adjustment thing that is.
15. Do we have to check camshaft endplay or pistion to valve clearance?
10-23-2002, 02:47 AM
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Re: Camshaft break - in procedure HELP!! need advice! (2000vsm)
whoa nelly slow down there...
from a previous post i've read. I think it was Crane cams said to idle your engine at 3000rpm for 30 minutes or something for their cams then change oil right after. Don't quote me on anything though i'm kinda fuzzy on that.
1.) yes it is safe to go back to convential oils after synthetics. when you go back to synthetic be sure to run motorflush.
2.) for breakin use i think 0w-30 or 5w-30. Whatever honda specified from the factory.
3.) detergent oil is the ones that contain cleaners in them. Try to avoid those for any type of breaking in.
4.) you must always adjust your valve lash after switching to different cams. this will prevent excessive valvetrain wear as well as keep your valves a tad quieter.
5.) put assembly lube on all friction parts that will be dry from oil upon initial startup.
6.) i'm not sure about priming the engine for a cam break-in...most likely no... just dab some fresh motoroil over the cams and valvetrain before startup.
7.) uhh you can retard the timing a tad from the previous position. once your car is warmed up and running you can set igintion timing.
8.) i'm not sure on this either but it would be safe to change your filter as well.
9.) not sure on that but i'd say do it as a precaution.
10.) i'd say at 500 then regularly after that.
11.) NOPE stock is fine...unless you want more power for lots of money...
12.)
hahaha
13.)
hahaha
14.) rocker arm clearance...didn't you just ask to do valve adjustments earlier?
15.) umm valve to piston clearance...i dunno how to do this other than claying for clearances.
ok so all of these i've tried to answer them as best i can...i'm not a mechanic nor do i know anyting...hahaha i know somewhat enough for my own good not to break stuff. double and triple check references before you take any of my advice. :D thats the disclaimer....
from a previous post i've read. I think it was Crane cams said to idle your engine at 3000rpm for 30 minutes or something for their cams then change oil right after. Don't quote me on anything though i'm kinda fuzzy on that.
1.) yes it is safe to go back to convential oils after synthetics. when you go back to synthetic be sure to run motorflush.
2.) for breakin use i think 0w-30 or 5w-30. Whatever honda specified from the factory.
3.) detergent oil is the ones that contain cleaners in them. Try to avoid those for any type of breaking in.
4.) you must always adjust your valve lash after switching to different cams. this will prevent excessive valvetrain wear as well as keep your valves a tad quieter.
5.) put assembly lube on all friction parts that will be dry from oil upon initial startup.
6.) i'm not sure about priming the engine for a cam break-in...most likely no... just dab some fresh motoroil over the cams and valvetrain before startup.
7.) uhh you can retard the timing a tad from the previous position. once your car is warmed up and running you can set igintion timing.
8.) i'm not sure on this either but it would be safe to change your filter as well.
9.) not sure on that but i'd say do it as a precaution.
10.) i'd say at 500 then regularly after that.
11.) NOPE stock is fine...unless you want more power for lots of money...
12.)
hahaha13.)
hahaha14.) rocker arm clearance...didn't you just ask to do valve adjustments earlier?
15.) umm valve to piston clearance...i dunno how to do this other than claying for clearances.
ok so all of these i've tried to answer them as best i can...i'm not a mechanic nor do i know anyting...hahaha i know somewhat enough for my own good not to break stuff.
double and triple check references before you take any of my advice. :D thats the disclaimer....
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