M.A.R.C.

OK all... I finally took my car to the dealership to get my IACV CEL/weird idle checked out. They checked... said it wasn't the IACV. The guy at the dealership almost voided my warranty though because SOMEHOW he realized I had nitrous previously. The car was almost stock only had the fpr on it... stock air box was back in and all. Oh well. The tech said that two things he found while he was looking for the problem:

1) The AC Clutch circuit had something wrong with it. He said at idle the power would just drop out sometimes then come back in... sorta like a short. He wasn't clear on it though. I'm guessing he was doing this while the a/c was on to check the idle. Once again he wasn't very clear on it all. But his whole argument was that it seemed like a short... which I have NO idea what would cause that since I have never messed with it.

2) He also said my throttle plate was bent. He was trying to blame the nitrous on this so that's why he almost voided my warranty. Anyway he said that was bent. The only chance of that happening was once when the car backfired on the juice, and I've heard of it happening to other people and damaging MAP sensors. So it's a possibility.

The throttle plate deal I doubt is the problem... or if it is... it had to have developed over time. The day the nitrous back fired was like 4 months before the car started the fluctuating idle. So I'm at a total loss now. I might end up having to pay them to just check it out and find out what's wrong for sure. THEN pay to fix the prob

M.A.R.C.

thanks a lot man... I'll check all of those things out as I go.

M.A.R.C.

2. Varify that the throttle cable is within specs for deflection rate and not binding.
Checked... it wasn't too tight or anything.

3. Varify that your coolent is not low or air pockets are present.
Coolant isn't low, dunno bout the pockets though, will flush it one day.

4. Varify that the thermostat and radiator cap are sound.
Will check these out also

5. Varify that your electrical system is sound by performing an AVR test on all systems while at idel and at load with accessories. ie battery, alternator, grounding straps.
No clue on this one

6. Varify that basic tune up parts are indeed up to spec such as spark plug gap, rotor, and distributor cap is not worn or corroded / tracking.
Spark plugs shouldn't be a problem, the rotor and dist. needs to be checked, but i also doubt these... u never know though

7. Varify that your O2 sensor and emission devices are normal and not clogged such as your catalytic converter due to a rich condition.
This is possible because the car was ran pretty rich once... I was running 42psi (which was 10psi over stock i think) with colder plugs. Also, the car only idled like this before when i ran it hard... possible problem.

8. If an FPR or VAFC is present: Ensure that you are running stioch and not overly rich in furl mixture.
Gonna try putting on a stock fpr soon.

9. Ignition wires leaking RFI and EMI will cause havok to your ECU.
whats' RFI and EMI?

10. Varify that your coil / ignitor components are within resistive ohmic values per the Helms manual for your model year...
I need to buy a Helms



[Modified by CivicRyda2k, 10:00 PM 5/14/2002]