DA-MAX

hi people...I'm looking at the procedure for the timing belt change in the shop manual and after the belt replacement part I'm confused....so far I have:

-set to TDC
-removed all the other belts, crankshaft pulley, spark plugs and all covers
-insert the two 5mm pins into the cam holder to "hold" TDC
-lossened the adjusting bolt on the tensioner
-removed and replaced the belt

now I'm kinda confused since the manual jumps back and forth, but....whats next??

-do I replace everything and do the belt tensioning last and lastly reset to TDC or do I tension the belt first than put everything back together??

sorry for the long post and thanks for any help, its MUCH appreciated


[Modified by DA-MAX, 8:33 PM 1/25/2003]

raene

What you do is this: after it's all apart, and it's all at TDC, put the belt on. Next put the lower timing belt cover on - make sure you get that little directional ring on in the right direction - and put on the crank pulley fingertight. Turn the crank pulley in the direction of engine rotation (counterclockwise) about 1/8th turn, and using a 14mm ratchet, tighten up the timing belt tensioner. The 1/8th turn, or however much you decide to turn it, is what gives slack to the tensioner, allowing it to take up that slack. It should now all be tight and at TDC - the most important part to be tight is the long portion at the front of the engine. Do a full rotation through to TDC again (remember go counterclockwise) and doublecheck that it's all still in line. Now you just put it all back together.


[Modified by raene, 12:44 PM 1/25/2003]

genetsang

thats why you leave it for the professionals

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

When you put the belt on, I've found that it's easier to loop the belt around in this order:

1.) Oil pump/timing belt drive gear
2.) Timing belt tensioner
3.) Water pump
4.) Exhaust camgear (take as much slack as you can out of the front of the belt
5.) Intake camgear

The tensioner always takes the slack off the back of the belt, so it makes it easier to tension the belt without allowing the crank to move out of sync with the cams.

In the SM, the last two are reversed.

I don't put the pulley or lower cover back until I'm ready to start re-assembling everything. To tension the belt, I simply thread the 19mm crank pulley bolt on the end of the crank and rotate it CCW that way...but you kinda have to either impact it or slap it on there, and turn gently to keep it from loosening.

And, yes. Definitely double-check the tension and that all the marks line up before starting the re-assembling.

No water pump maintenance?

DA-MAX

thanks guys!!! that really does clear alot up...the shop manual helps out a lot, but those last two steps on p.5-44 where it jumps around from reassembly to finding TDC to tensioning had me kinda confused. Thanks again!!

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

That's one of the downsides of the manual. Great for detail and individual procedures, but it doesn't outline larger processes to help the reading.

It really wasn't written for the shadetree mechanic tho.