nethern

I tried to install a Pioneer after maket audio to replace the OEM. I have done some research and worked out the wiring diagram. I am able to wire most of them except one. One of the wire of the new Pioneer requires to connect to a 12V constant terminal which, according to my research, is the white/red wire. I connected to the white/red wire but the unit could not switch one. Troubleshooting led me to the white/red wire has no 12v on it. If I dragged a long with straight from the battery to my Pioneer's 12v constant wire, the unit can be switch on.

My question is, isn't that white/red 12v constant? What problem could it be? Where should I look further?

Also, I found out my keyless lock can't be remotely control any more.

Please help.!!

This is the info from the internet.

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|black/red |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|white/red |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|white/blue |- |gray plug above drivers kick|
| POWER UNLOCK|white/green |- |gray plug above drivers kick|
| LOCK MOTOR|yellow/black | |driver kick panel |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|yellow/green | |driver kick panel |
| DISARM DEFEAT|yellow | |passenger kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|red/black | |driver kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|blue | |factory alarm plug *1 |
| HEADLIGHTS|blue/red |- |factory alarm plug *1 |
| DOOR TRIGGER|*2 |- |factory alarm plug *1 |
| DOME SUPERVISION|comes on with unlock| | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|grn/wht & red *5 |- |factory alarm plug *1 |
| HOOD PIN|yellow/red |- |factory alarm plug *1 |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|black/yellow |- |driver kick panel |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM| | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK| | | |
| TACHOMETER|blue | |test connector *3 |
| SPEED SENSE|blue/white | |cruise control module *4 |
| BRAKE WIRE|white/black |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|orange |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blue (L), blu/yel(H)|- |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|red/blk - red/yel |A |driver window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/red - blu/wht |A |driver kick panel |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/blk - brown |A |driver kick panel |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/org - blu/yel |A |driver kick panel |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|grn/yel - grn/blk |A |relays above driver kick |
| RADIO 12V|white/red |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |+ |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|yellow/red |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|red/black |+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|grn/blk - lt green | |radio |
| RF SPEAKER|grn/yel - gry/red | |radio |
| LR SPEAKER|blu/wht - blu/blk | |radio |
| RR SPEAKER|pink - blu/yel | |radio |

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Did you cut the radio harness? Should have just gotten a cheap wiring harness and you wouldn't be having these issues.

fcm

The stock radios 12V constant, [hot at all times ] is fused in the engine bay fuse box on most Honda/Acura and should be a 7.5A, [back-up] fuse.

I would cap off the "white/red" and runs a fused 12ga lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs yellow, [12V constant] to it, the aftermarket HU, [Pioneer] is a "high power" unit and the stock 12V constant can not supply the current needed at higher volume levels.
I would also add a 12ga chassis to chassis ground, from chassis of HU, [use back brace screw location] to the cars chassis, [metal dash sub frame].
Replace the blown 7.5A back-up fuse. 94

nethern

I did cut the harness, as I could not source any wiring harness to convert to my HU's harness. To install, I have to cut it.

nethern

I have a few questions:

1. Are you saying that "white/red" actually does not deliver 12v?

2. Does the "white/red" wire also connected to something else? Such as the keyless lock? I am thinking maybe the 12v feed of that white/red wire might have problem which cause all of these issues. If I discard this wire and run another 12v, will it affect the other components that uses this wire as power supply?

3. Do I need to drill a hole to the engine compartment to run the fused wire? Or there is anothe way of doing it?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Where did you look? Not that hard I think. They're all over Ebay. You could have even checked Crutchfield.

nethern

Sorry, I think I misunderstood you. I cut the hartness of the OEM 20pin and connect each wire to the harness of Pioneer 16pin that came with the package. I search the internet, there is no such 20pin-to-16pin harness converter or likes.

kyden

why didn't you just get one of these and wire it in?

kyden

did you blow one of the fuses?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

This is what I'm talking about. NEVER cut off the stock harness. There are always cleaner and better ways of doing things.

fcm

The white/red should be a 12V constant, [hot at all times] most likely fused in the engine bay fuse box, most likely with a 7.5A fuse, [back-up].

It is used for memory on the stock HU, [radio presets and so on] very little current, [power] is needed for memory.

The 12V constant, [yellow] for your Pioneer powers the HU internal "high power" amp and every thing else in the HU, the 12V switched, [red] on your Pioneer HU is a control lead, [only low current is needed].

To insure the HU gets the current it needs to operate properly at high volume levels, [high current demand] it is best to get the 12V constant from a source other then the stock 12V constant, [white/red].
The white/red needs to be capped off to prevent shorting out and the fuse for the white/red lead needs to be replaced.
The fuse for the white/red most likely went out when you cut the stock plug off the radio harness or shorted out after it was cut, either way the fuse needs to be replaced as it most likely powers other things, [door lock R/F unit, ECU memory and so on] the end of the white/red also needs to be capped off.

You should not need to drill a hole in the firewall to get your new 12V constant lead into the car, use an existing wire hole or an unused hole with a dummy plug in it, if you have to drill a hole make sure you know what is on the other side before you drill and install a rubber grommet in the new hole.
Don't forget, the new power lead needs to be fused, [within a few inches of batt.]