Tommy818

Well, just to avoid silly questions. I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, the coil, made sure the spark plugs were gaped too 1.1, double checked the spark plug firing order, and set the mechanical timing to 16 degrees. Now on to the problem>>> I was trying to set the timing using a gun ( keep in mind the car was running like **** thats why I was doing this) while the car was running and I plugged the wire from the gun into the distributor in cylinder #1 and it fell out and the car bogged out and died. I have since taken all of the above mention steps to fix it yet the car floods out every time I try to start it. The last time I got it to run and it ran ******* awesome until I parked it and let it idle. The idle calmed down to around 700 to 650 rpms. Then the car just started to jump the idle up and down from around 650 to 1000 rpms and eventually it just bogged out and flooded again while running and shut down. I tried to give it gas while the idle dropped but it bogged out even worse when I did that and eventually flooded out. Now every time I try to start it it just floods with gas and wont start. Please help me out here guys

7rrivera7

iTrader: (1)

No CE light? Do you have another ECU you can try?

Tommy818

nope..no check engine light showing up..I wish I had another ecu..how can I test the one I have?

Colin

iTrader: (1)

How is it "flooding" with gas, that term is really only relevant to carbureted engines. If you "flood" a fuel injected engine then you'd essentially be hydro locking it with fuel (filling the cylinder with fuel).

Also, you don't set your mechanical timing to 16deg, you set your IGNITION timing to 16deg BTDC.

It sorta sounds like you need to start back at square one because from what you've typed it doesn't sound like you have an understanding of what is going on with your engine currently nor how you need to be trying to get it to run.

Tommy818

No you can actually flood a fuel injected car if you aren't getting a spark to ignite the fuel as it is sprayed into the cylinder by the fuel injectors..that was the initial problem...HYDRO=H2O...its gas not water...I am also aware of what I was doing with setting the mechanical timing( That refers to setting your actual timing belt to 16 degrees +or- 2 degrees) with the engine not running. I actually had the engine in pieces when I did this process. I wasn't actually setting my ignition timing with a gun. I typed that introduction to the thread as a very quick synopsis to try and get useful information. If you aren't on this thread to try and give me useful information than please don't post. I am very well aware of what I am doing and don't need someone who can't even spell trying to give me advice. I do not appreciate your post nor was it helpful. Thanks for nothing

2fast4u831

I would try another ecu if you can. An injector driver or two might be bad causing extra fuel to be poured in the cylinder(happened to my friends supercharged h22 lude). I would also check and make sure that the cam gear marks line up with the crank pulley to make sure the timing belt hasn't skipped. Do you have good spark?

Tommy818

Yea bro thanks...I just bought another ecu to see if that help...and yes I do have a good spark and I just made sure the cams are aligned..thanks for the help brother

AmericanSpy519

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Tommy818

Check that: I get no spark. I have the gears lined up. I have replaced the coil, spark plugs, and wires...Gotta be the Dizzy huh? Do you know how I can test it?

Tommy818

Ok I ordered a new dizzy....fingers crossed fellas

accorse07

Hmm...your original post says that you already replaced the dizzy.

When you say you are flooding, does the car start and than die?

Or the car does not start and you know your flooding because you have removed your spark plug and sprayed air into the cylinder and got fuel shooting out.

dapimp1814

Could also b ur main relay and ignition switch wat u should check wit a volt meter is if ur getting power to ur distributor while its still plugged in just stab a little whole to BLK/YELL wire try to see if it ever looses power.

fcm

There are a few things that can cause a no spark problem, number 1 is a bad coil, it can be pulled and tested, number 2 is a bad ICM, it can also be pulled and tested, there are other reasons for no spark, as mentioned, no power to the distributor assembly, you should be checking, [troubleshooting] things before yo go and replace parts, kind of late for that now though.

Then again, if the new distributor does not work, your back to square one, troubleshooting.

With that said, hopefully the new distributor solves your problem, if not at least you will have a spare, that's the thing about tossing parts at a problem, it only works if the first part you replace is the problem. 94

Tommy818

Yea I agree about tossing parts at the problem. I just wish the car was obd1 or obd2 so I could just scan it. The check engine light isn't even on so I can count the blinks by the ecu. Diagnosing the problem is kind of difficult on a car this old. Its a whole lot of trial and error. If you have any helpful suggestions it would be greatly appreciated old fart lol.

fcm

Have you checked to see if there is power going to the distributor assembly? 94

Tommy818

Yes I have power going to it but I don't get any spark to my plugs...Do you know how to check and see if it is putting out power or not??

MikeM

Check your cam timing. What kind of parts are you using? One of the first places I would start with, is replacing aftermarket parts. I would use a factory distributor cap & rotor, make sure the rotor is installed correctly. Igniters and coils are common problems. Check the screws on the coil leads, the heads strip out easily, if the wrong length of screws are used the leads won't make contact even if the screws are tight. Can you borrow a complete distributor from a good running car?

djsattler

I had a similar problem with my '97 Integra. After replacing a few parts and not fixing the problem the Check Engine light finally came on. The tech said it was the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. It was reading -80 degrees F and so was pumping extra fuel into the engine. Had it replaced and the problem has gone away.