SLAMMED... Suspension Setups.
08-29-2007, 02:23 PM
#54
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (GrnTurtle)
The only thing that can give you extra shock travel is
1. take out bump stop (not a good idea)
2. shock fork trick (if possible for your shock application)
Other than that, you have exhausted your shock's capacity. Time to get something else that gives you what you want.
1. take out bump stop (not a good idea)
2. shock fork trick (if possible for your shock application)
Other than that, you have exhausted your shock's capacity. Time to get something else that gives you what you want.
08-29-2007, 07:27 PM
#56
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Kingston, Jamaica, Jamaica
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (FalkenSiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FalkenSiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing that can give you extra shock travel is
1. take out bump stop (not a good idea)
2. shock fork trick (if possible for your shock application)
Other than that, you have exhausted your shock's capacity. Time to get something else that gives you what you want.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Explain the bold area !!!!
1. take out bump stop (not a good idea)
2. shock fork trick (if possible for your shock application)
Other than that, you have exhausted your shock's capacity. Time to get something else that gives you what you want.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Explain the bold area !!!!
08-29-2007, 08:40 PM
#57
Re: (wildcat98)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildcat98 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Explain the bold area !!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
the brake tabs get cut of the shock and u just drop the shock into the fork more so it stick out from under the fork. basically like getting shorter forks
Explain the bold area !!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
the brake tabs get cut of the shock and u just drop the shock into the fork more so it stick out from under the fork. basically like getting shorter forks
09-01-2007, 10:06 PM
#58
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (dut)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Barney, the sky is purple.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Barney, the sky is purple.
09-03-2007, 03:00 PM
#61
Who?
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,910
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (GrnTurtle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrnTurtle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there anything that can be done to stop the shocks from bottoming out from being lowered to much?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why half *** it? Just throw airbags on it...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> No need to lie, my **** bottoms out everytime I drive it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
More of you should be as truthful as this guy.
Why half *** it? Just throw airbags on it...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> No need to lie, my **** bottoms out everytime I drive it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
More of you should be as truthful as this guy.
09-03-2007, 04:30 PM
#62
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (iiilgsrlll)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iiilgsrlll »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Barney, the sky is purple. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Barney, the sky is purple.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
09-03-2007, 04:46 PM
#64
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: England,, UK., UK.
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (dut)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No need to lie, my **** bottoms out everytime I drive it. The a-arms hit the shock tower, not the shocks bottoming out. I just say that the a-arms are acting as the bump stops.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dut, being so low... do you not find cuts in the front tyres from where the top of the tyre meets the metal/chassis when you drive or hit a bump in the road?! (I don't know the proper name for that part of the car, don't flame me)
</TD></TR></TABLE>Dut, being so low... do you not find cuts in the front tyres from where the top of the tyre meets the metal/chassis when you drive or hit a bump in the road?! (I don't know the proper name for that part of the car, don't flame me)
09-03-2007, 04:59 PM
#65
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Bon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dut, being so low... do you not find cuts in the front tyres from where the top of the tyre meets the metal/chassis when you drive or hit a bump in the road?! (I don't know the proper name for that part of the car, don't flame me)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I smashed that **** flat.
Dut, being so low... do you not find cuts in the front tyres from where the top of the tyre meets the metal/chassis when you drive or hit a bump in the road?! (I don't know the proper name for that part of the car, don't flame me)
</TD></TR></TABLE>No, I smashed that **** flat.
09-03-2007, 05:01 PM
#67
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Kingston, Jamaica, Jamaica
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (dut)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, I smashed that **** flat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I bent mine away ....... no more cutting of the tyre...
ps. what suspension setup do you use on u civic ????
No, I smashed that **** flat.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I bent mine away ....... no more cutting of the tyre...
ps. what suspension setup do you use on u civic ????
09-03-2007, 05:01 PM
#68
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Bon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I seeeeee.
Well, thats what I gotta do then I suppose
Thanks dude </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, I cut slits and then smashed.
Well, thats what I gotta do then I suppose
Thanks dude
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yea, I cut slits and then smashed.
09-03-2007, 05:25 PM
#70
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Miami, FL, United States
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (dut)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, I smashed that **** flat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yea, I cut slits and then smashed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
good info. now i know what ill have to do.
No, I smashed that **** flat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yea, I cut slits and then smashed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>good info. now i know what ill have to do.
09-03-2007, 07:01 PM
#71
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Jersey y0, USA
Posts: 4,760
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Mr JDM South)
can someone explain to me flipping the collar or flippin the sleeve or whatever? what im thinking of, it doesn't seem like it would do anything. maybe im just being retarded right now and having a brain fart?
09-03-2007, 07:36 PM
#72
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: St. Catharines, Canada
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Koni Yellow SP3 shortened shaft 5 perch settings
GC Extended Top Hats
GC Coilovers 450 front 375 rear.
Ride is pretty smooth but for being at this height i would definitely need stiffer spring rates. I can go lower than the suspension geometry would allow me to anyways.
GC Extended Top Hats
GC Coilovers 450 front 375 rear.
Ride is pretty smooth but for being at this height i would definitely need stiffer spring rates. I can go lower than the suspension geometry would allow me to anyways.
09-03-2007, 08:00 PM
#74
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cincinnati, oh, us
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (usdm_ED7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm_ED7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dope thread! oh ya anyone running some F2's (form and function). im planning on getting those and slamming it pretty low. wanted to get some feedback before i buy em...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have them on my civic they ride and handle great my car isnt that slammed but i still have a about 2 inches in both front and rear that it can still go down but it rubs now so not going lower untill i get some 15's
[IMG]
[/IMG]
i have them on my civic they ride and handle great my car isnt that slammed but i still have a about 2 inches in both front and rear that it can still go down but it rubs now so not going lower untill i get some 15's
[IMG]
[/IMG]
09-03-2007, 08:24 PM
#75
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (wildcat98)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildcat98 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Explain the bold area !!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
__________________________________________________ ______________
<FONT SIZE="2">CRX Lee (2:11 PM 12/8/2005):</FONT> I have written it up several times. I tried quickly to search but can't spend the time right now. Look up "wishbone" and "mounting fork" in the archives. It is there a lot, or just post a thread asking for someone to find the link. It is there and explains it in great detail.
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.
You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definitely not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guide path so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinch bolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).
Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.
BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
__________________________________________________ ______________
good stuff save it
Explain the bold area !!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
__________________________________________________ ______________
<FONT SIZE="2">CRX Lee (2:11 PM 12/8/2005):</FONT> I have written it up several times. I tried quickly to search but can't spend the time right now. Look up "wishbone" and "mounting fork" in the archives. It is there a lot, or just post a thread asking for someone to find the link. It is there and explains it in great detail.
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.
You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definitely not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guide path so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinch bolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).
Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.
BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
__________________________________________________ ______________
good stuff save it