sitinduk

I'm getting ready to replace the suspension bushings on my '95 teg ls w/ a set of Hardrace hardened rubber bushings.




For the trailing arm bushings I have the special extractor tool.


For the others I'm going to try to use a ball joint tool to press out the old ones and install the new ones. Failing that I figure I can torch and hacksaw the old and bring the new ones to a machine shop to have them press them in.

Does anyone know the socket sizes I can use w/ the ball joint tool?
Will need sockets for:
Front UCA, Front LCA, Rear UCA, and Rear Toe link.

sitinduk

OK, was able to find some sockets that should work.

- Rear toe (compensator) arm & rear UCA -> 22mm or 7/8" (need deep socket for the bushing that attaches to the body on the RR. UCA)

- Rear LCA (small) -> 25mm or 1"
- Rear LCA (large) -> 1-1/16"

- Front UCA -> 24mm

- Front LCA (small) -> 1-1/16"
- Front LCA (large bushing) -> 1-1/8"


Ball joint tool is definitely not working for removing the bushings. Guess it's hacksaw and torch. I'll try the ball joint tool for the install, but will most likely have to bring everything to a machine shop.


Modified by sitinduk at 8:50 PM 9/21/2008

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

All the control arm bushings you will have to heat up the bushing in order to break it loose, other than the trailing arm.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

What about a large bench vise? Could that work for pressing them out and back in?

We used a vice to remove and install front upper control arm bushings on my buddy's EK hatch several years ago.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about a large bench vise? Could that work for pressing them out and back in?

We used a vice to remove and install front upper control arm bushings on my buddy's EK hatch several years ago.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You used a vise without first heating up the area that surrounds the bushing itself?

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

yep, we just pressed those jokers in there... I think they may have been polyurethane bushings that we were installing, though.

But that's another idea - what about throwing the control arms in the oven and the bushings in the freezer. Would that make things easier?

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep, we just pressed those jokers in there... I think they may have been polyurethane bushings that we were installing, though.

But that's another idea - what about throwing the control arms in the oven and the bushings in the freezer. Would that make things easier?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was actually going to mention that throwing the bushings in the freezer while you work on the control arm is a good idea. Therefore when you're ready to slap the new bushings in, they'll fall in place real nice and tight.

Hitting the control arm bushing with a torch works better when removing them because you really only need to concentrate the heat in one particular section. Plus, it would suck trying to work out a bushing on a HOT control arm.

drew-dst

Late to the part I know. But if anyone is looking for another method, we created a couple of how to's. One is how to remove a bushing with a torch, and the other is How to install without a press. Both of these guides were created using the rear control arm of an Integra/Civic, so it's especially relevant to Honda/Acura owners. Check it out:
How to burn out bushings: How-To Burn out Suspension Bushings: The Right Way - AftermarketSuspensionParts.com

and How to Install without a press: How-To Install a Bushing Without a Press - AftermarketSuspensionParts.com