Did I boil my brake fluid?
04-27-2009, 11:55 PM
#1
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Did I boil my brake fluid?
The other day I replaced my rotors and did a brake flush with DOT 4 Synthetic Valvoline, it looked like decent stuff... (I just let it take its time and gravity bleed, so I highly doubt any air got in the system, I didn't let the reservoir get even close to empty).
When I first left the driveway I was like wow the brakes are really touchy, you just barely press the pedal and it stopped right away, I figured it was probably the rotors had not been worn in yet. So following a guide I had read long ago you should do like 20mph to 5mph then 30mph to 5mph up to about 60 without coming to a complete stop (don't know where I read this, but it seemed like a good idea).
So after that I was surprised how smooth the were so the dumbass I am got on the freeway (its like 10:30 at night, no traffic in sight front or behind) and flew the next exit (read: fast) and hit the brakes hard on the offramp almost stopping then the light turned green so I went straight and accelerated to normal 35mph or whatever, then went to stop again, and I had to press the brakes really hard this time just to stop in time for the next light (brake fade big time)... As I'm sitting at the light I see a light smoke coming from both sides over the hood from the wheel wells and I can smell what I think is probably the excess on the rotors from being freshly turned...
Now I've been driving it for a couple days now (no more smoke from the rotors
) and the pedal feels a tad on the soft side, I have to push it more than I remember having to push it to grab. I can still lock up the brakes if I press really hard, but its not quite as good as I remember.
I guess tomorrow I think I have about half of one of those bottles left I'll try and flush them one more time if I have enough, but it's going to be tough since I don't think it will be obvious when the new fluid starts coming out since it's all fresh... Maybe I'll see if I can find some ATE Blue this time
Or I guess I'll see if it even does anything...
When I first left the driveway I was like wow the brakes are really touchy, you just barely press the pedal and it stopped right away, I figured it was probably the rotors had not been worn in yet. So following a guide I had read long ago you should do like 20mph to 5mph then 30mph to 5mph up to about 60 without coming to a complete stop (don't know where I read this, but it seemed like a good idea).
So after that I was surprised how smooth the were so the dumbass I am got on the freeway (its like 10:30 at night, no traffic in sight front or behind) and flew the next exit (read: fast) and hit the brakes hard on the offramp almost stopping then the light turned green so I went straight and accelerated to normal 35mph or whatever, then went to stop again, and I had to press the brakes really hard this time just to stop in time for the next light (brake fade big time)... As I'm sitting at the light I see a light smoke coming from both sides over the hood from the wheel wells and I can smell what I think is probably the excess on the rotors from being freshly turned...
Now I've been driving it for a couple days now (no more smoke from the rotors
) and the pedal feels a tad on the soft side, I have to push it more than I remember having to push it to grab. I can still lock up the brakes if I press really hard, but its not quite as good as I remember.I guess tomorrow I think I have about half of one of those bottles left I'll try and flush them one more time if I have enough, but it's going to be tough since I don't think it will be obvious when the new fluid starts coming out since it's all fresh... Maybe I'll see if I can find some ATE Blue this time
Or I guess I'll see if it even does anything...
04-28-2009, 12:30 AM
#2
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Re: Did I boil my brake fluid?
re bleed the system with a buddy. the pump method or vac bleeder will probably cure your problem. make sure the bleeders are tight ! loose bleeders are a bitch
04-28-2009, 12:39 AM
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Re: Did I boil my brake fluid?
When ever I use the MityVac bleeder I bought when you pump pressure (it's the hand one) I see little bubbles coming out of the bleeder which I haven't quite figured out why, but the gravity bleed seemed to do well and it did feel really good right after I did the flush, but I also did the rotors at the same time without testing in between... So it's hard to say, I guess I could do the buddy method though (open while pushing pedal down, closed while letting up).
edit:
Hmm I don't think I have any teflon tape on hand, I'll see what I can do. Maybe I'll pick some up...
edit:
Originally Posted by mityvac
Q: When I try to bleed my brake system using the Mityvac® pump I am getting air bubbles in the line connected to the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder and little or no fluid is being collected in the reservoir jar. I have tried several times to bleed my brakes without success. What is the cause of this problem?
A: Usually this condition is caused by a small amount of air being pulled between the threads of the bleeder screw and the body of the wheel cylinder or caliper resulting in the appearance of several small bubbles in the line connected to the bleeder screw. This can be corrected quickly and easily. Before you begin to bleed the brake system we suggest that the bleeder screws be removed at all four wheels. With the bleeder screws removed assure all are clean and the passages of the bleeder screws are free of corrosion or debris. (A small paper clip will work well.) Next, be sure that all brake fluid, penatrating oil, and or grease is removed from the bleeder screw. (Brake cleaning solvent does an excellent job.) Apply a 2 to 3 inch piece of Teflon® tape to the threaded area of the bleeder screw only. Wrap the tape in the opposite direction of the rotation of the threads. This will prevent any see page of air from around the threads. Install each bleeder screw back into the corresponding caliper or wheel cylinder and lightly seat the bleeder screw. Now you are ready to begin bleeding the brake system! This may seem like quite a bit of work in the beginning, but, once you get started it should only take minutes to complete. In fact, the procedure outlined above is an important step when bleeding brake systems regardless of the method used. It is critical to be sure that each component in the brake system is in proper working order to assure a long lasting repair. Remember, the brake system is the most important system in your vehicle. If the brake system fails to perform correctly, the results could be disastrous.
A: Usually this condition is caused by a small amount of air being pulled between the threads of the bleeder screw and the body of the wheel cylinder or caliper resulting in the appearance of several small bubbles in the line connected to the bleeder screw. This can be corrected quickly and easily. Before you begin to bleed the brake system we suggest that the bleeder screws be removed at all four wheels. With the bleeder screws removed assure all are clean and the passages of the bleeder screws are free of corrosion or debris. (A small paper clip will work well.) Next, be sure that all brake fluid, penatrating oil, and or grease is removed from the bleeder screw. (Brake cleaning solvent does an excellent job.) Apply a 2 to 3 inch piece of Teflon® tape to the threaded area of the bleeder screw only. Wrap the tape in the opposite direction of the rotation of the threads. This will prevent any see page of air from around the threads. Install each bleeder screw back into the corresponding caliper or wheel cylinder and lightly seat the bleeder screw. Now you are ready to begin bleeding the brake system! This may seem like quite a bit of work in the beginning, but, once you get started it should only take minutes to complete. In fact, the procedure outlined above is an important step when bleeding brake systems regardless of the method used. It is critical to be sure that each component in the brake system is in proper working order to assure a long lasting repair. Remember, the brake system is the most important system in your vehicle. If the brake system fails to perform correctly, the results could be disastrous.
Last edited by tazeat; 04-28-2009 at 12:54 AM.
04-29-2009, 11:08 AM
#4
Re: Did I boil my brake fluid?
i would suggest a re-bleed with a buddy as well. hondas dont gravity bleed well from my experience.. and im usually not that patient either..
i tell people dont get on the brakes hard for about a week, drive slow and chill out.. just to be safe and let them wear in properly.
i tell people dont get on the brakes hard for about a week, drive slow and chill out.. just to be safe and let them wear in properly.
04-29-2009, 11:16 AM
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Re: Did I boil my brake fluid?
Well I've been busy as hell and got home late last night so I didn't touch them, but driving to school today they felt better. Maybe I glazed the pads and the glazing just took a bit to wear off? I don't know, it can't hurt to bleed some more fluid out though, if I get home at reasonable time tonight I'll do it.
edit: I also don't know the brand of the pads, they came with the car. They have like 90+% pad left so I didn't replace them. I would guess a NAPA brand since I have a stack of receipts from them that came with the car. Also
to the guy that owned the car, everything had antiseize on it and the whole process with the rotors was a breeze.
edit: I also don't know the brand of the pads, they came with the car. They have like 90+% pad left so I didn't replace them. I would guess a NAPA brand since I have a stack of receipts from them that came with the car. Also
to the guy that owned the car, everything had antiseize on it and the whole process with the rotors was a breeze.
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