sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Maybe Tyson will see this with his infinite wisdom.

Wife's car is a 98 civic sedan. Gsr swapped and is currently riding on hd replacement shocks with Tein S.tech.

Have been looking to upgrade her for a while. Will mostly be fun (we have 5 vehicles) Mostly street with maybe an occasional sprint at Wv motorsports park (Summit Point,WV)

I have considered the Koni/GC for a great while,but have never pulled the trigger. I am currently looking at the Progress CS 2 coil overs in a 450/450 (Because of not only the swap but also because it's a 4 door)

Kids are old enough they can deal with a little stiffer ride than stock,so that's not an issue. I know OTS rates on Koni/gc will not work just because of weight. If you recommend the Koni/GC or a different CS 2 spring rate please tell me why.

Help is greatly appreciated. Current setups similar to what I have and real world experience is also greatly appreciated.

FlewByU352

Run the 450/400 rates for our cars. Why? Because I created the setup years ago and it has prospered. But on another note its far from stiff and I would describe it as sporty.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Are those GC rates? Well I wouldn't go as far as saying jar your teeth out but if there is some sacrifice for the sake of not loading the trunk with groceries and it squatting (Like my current S.tech setup does) I'm ok with it.

Tyson

Why do you think your swapped engine makes any difference to the spring rate? The b17 is barely adding anything to the weight of the car, it's about as relevant to the color of your car to spring rate.

Just look at the difference of a integra GC spring rate and a civic.

Go with whatever rates and suspension you want. What's the big deal? You're just tooting around. You can change rates if you don't like it.

Again, it's like asking what color to paint your car, or how much salt you want on your fries. Go with whatever you want.

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sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

I am wanting to prevent the sag of the car when it's being used as a regular family car,but also keep it as something she can have fun with alone or at a course.

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

8k/6k should work well on a lowered car without being too stiff.

Tyson

you asked to choose between two ADJUSTABLE suspensions.

if you want to prevent "sag", what do you think adjustable means?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

He means that when he loads the back of the car up, he wants the static ride height CHANGE to be minimal.

That's why he wants the hard rear springs.

He is looking for a place to start, and hoping he won't have to start from scratch - or at least for a close GUESS on spring rates based on his useage description.

Tyson is trying to impress that this is going to require some DIY engineering. I agree. But...as a place to start;

450/400, as flewbyu has suggested doesn't sound too far off base. If you're using Koni yellows, only drop the car around 1.25" max with those rates. Cut the bumpstops to about a 1.5" length (approx). It'll beat you up a little...but not so badly as to make it unbearable.

The right way to get bumpstop length is to measure suspension travel. Shock shaft/free travel length at full extension vs shock shaft length/free travel length at static ride height. Etc.

The front has a lot less travel than the rear. Keep that in mind.

As far as engine weights...I assume a B series weighs a bit more than a D series. Idk how much more. But the weight is forward of the front axle. The front suspension MR is like 1.5-1.6ish. So...a small amount of weight makes a sizeable difference.

But since you're buying a suspension with threaded collars, you can adjust height as you want.

Good luck.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Everyone's idea of comfort is different.

My K24 ITR's spring rate setup was (on Koni Yellows):
-400F
-450R

It wasn't brilliant for a DD. But with the dampers set about 90 deg from stiff, it was bareable. I don't know if the dampers were on the stock valving or not. I am guessing they were? I bought the car with them on there.

The trunk was once loaded with like 200-300LB+ worth of **** for a track/camping weekend. I didn't get much rear suspension "sag". It was barely noticeable...and I tried to put all the heaviest **** closest to the center of the car.

The car had stock bars. It did well on the track. Also was not brilliant out there with such soft springs.

But it worked well enough. And the suspension set up cost like $800 for whomever bought it new. So...can't ask for much more.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

This is what I was looking for. Thank you.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Yea I have considered both koni/GC and the progress setup. Pricing is about the same so I think I can make the choice a little easier now knowing that I won't experience the sagging with a 450 out back.

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

I like these for a sporty daily.

PIC Performance APEX Series

FlewByU352

Put your family on a diet. I have had 650lbs of passengers with 400lb rear springs and the car did not sag or hit the bump stomps at any point. It did have more tire deflection and was slower on transitions but no ****** packing cut spring sagging bullshit.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

lol...tough crowd in the suspension forum. Poor guy asked a fairly thorough question.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

2 kids and the wife and I. Tein S techs are some of the softest springs on the market. Has nothing to do with diet.

Part Number: SKA24-AUB00
Spring Rate (R): 140 lbs/in (2.5 kgf/mm)
Spring Rate (F): 235 lbs/in (4.2 kgf/mm)

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

I also looked at these. Do you like the build quality? Have they lasted?

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

I'm not personally running those, but I know a few guys that are, and they love them for the price. Build quality seems really good, and customer service is top notch.

For $700 I don't think you'll find a better coilover.